Help me decide what to do !

[StoneCold]

Hello all!

This may get a bit long.....

I just joined and am glad this site is around. I just purchased my first TJ. I had a 2012 4 door rubicon before. It was lifted and had 33's on it. I bought it that way - so not a ton of experience here. It was done well, but I ended up selling it due to life circumstances...lol. I was able to buy a jeep again, so I did...

Now here is where it gets complicated. I violated rule number 1 - I was impatient when I bought it. I purchased a 2000 4L sport, 149k. It has a little rust on the front tube of the frame, the steering box (?) by the front frame and between the frame and the transfer case / transmission skid. The rest is pretty clean of rust. Pretty much everything works as far as I can tell. The rust isn't bad. It has a hard top, most of the soft top and frame - but I will need to get parts and maybe a top to use it. Body, tub, interior are pretty clean.

So after doing more research - and some I already knew - I am confused. Here's why: It has the Dana 35 rear axel, it has tires that are too big for the stock suspension. It appears to be leaking from the valve cover, possibly the oil pan, maybe rear main seal, transfer case or tranny. It has a lot of grease, oil, gunk on everything underneath from the current and possibly prior leaks. All the u joints and look original...etc

I figure I have 3 choices....

1.The wheels are 15x8 with 3.75" back space. So I could replace the tires with 31x10.5's, clean / degrease it all, start replacing seals and fluids, replace the joints, clean up the rust and coat as much as I can. Replace other wear items as I go.

2. Lift it. This will replace a lot of the parts. Replace fluids and seals and joints...

3. Possibly take a hit on it by selling it. Waiting / looking and buying a different one with fewer issues, a Dana 44 rear, maybe a rubi...etc

I am a rookie off-roader. I just moved to Colorado and plan on wheeling it on some of the trails. I don't plan on doing anything like rock crawling or mudding. I also want to use it as a hunting vehicle. I also was planning on adding a winch.

Any thoughts appreciated...thank you!

SC

 

[Chris]

I think I'd have to see photos of the rust (and the vehicle in general to make an informed decision).

I personally bought a Rubicon model because I knew if I bought a base model TJ I would eventually end up wanting to upgrade the axles and add lockers. I figured that buy buying the Rubicon I would already have the axle and locker issue solved. That left me with things like a lift and wheels / tires, which were much less to worry about than new axles.

So yeah, I'm really glad I bought a Rubicon model. I added a lift, put on some 33" tires and alloy axle shafts, and now I've got a very, very capable rig.

I think it depends on what you want to do. I don't deal with rust, I just don't. I've had to deal with it in the past and I promised myself never again. It's such a hassle to deal with properly. When looking for a TJ I took my time and found one with NO rust at all.

It sounds like you've got a project on your hands. Are you okay with a project? If so, keep it, add a lift, fix the things that need fixing, and you're good to go. If you don't want a project, sell it, buy a clean Rubicon, add a lift, tires, bumper and winch and you'll be good to go!

 

[derekmac]

I waited a few years before finding my Rubi. Like Chris, I knew I'd just end up wanting to upgrade the axles, so the choice was simple for me. It was cheaper for me to wait then to upgrade. I have a small lift and 33's, and am very happy.

Rust where I live is just part of life. As long as the frame isn't bad, the floor and tub are OK, then I wouldn't mind a little rust. The only real rust on mine are the fenders and windshield frame, all of which are easily replaceable. If mine had frame rust, I would have passed on it.

If you need it, keep it and slowly build it. Hell, there are far more non Rubicon owners here than there are owners. The non Rubi package is still a very capable rig. My personal choice would be to sell and wait for a good Rubi though. I'm not saying that's the right thing to do, just what I'd do.

 

[Swimmer35]

I agree with Chris. A lot of depends on just how much work you want to put in it. Oil leaks are generally pretty easy to fix (except the rear main, this one just sucks). As long as nothing is rusted through, clean up the rust and put some rust inhibitor on it. Then I would do the lift and such.

 

[StoneCold]

Thanks for the replies,

I will try and take some pics and post them.

I don't mind working on the rig, I was hoping to be able to drive it and use it before I had to do "a lot" of stuff at once. I'll ponder a bit.

One of the things I think about is the costs of the repairs. For example 5 tires is ~ $800 ish....that's almost a lift....then fluids, seals, minor repairs....basically for the output I could get close to being in a different one.

Realize of course I know how I got here...lol. Just trying to not pour good money after bad. Then again, if I do all the building with Currie and such, my TJ will be "better" than a stock rubicon...lol

SC

 

[Rob5589]

If the rust is bad I would move it, If not it would depend on how much work and money you are willing to devote. Remember, you bought a 16 year old vehicle, an off road vehicle at that, with 150k miles. There will be issues, hopefully not major ones, that need to be dealt with.

 

[fourpointzero]

Thanks for the replies,

I will try and take some pics and post them.

I don't mind working on the rig, I was hoping to be able to drive it and use it before I had to do "a lot" of stuff at once. I'll ponder a bit.

One of the things I think about is the costs of the repairs. For example 5 tires is ~ $800 ish....that's almost a lift....then fluids, seals, minor repairs....basically for the output I could get close to being in a different one.

Realize of course I know how I got here...lol. Just trying to not pour good money after bad. Then again, if I do all the building with Currie and such, my TJ will be "better" than a stock rubicon...lol

SC

Hi Stone:
Pictures speak a thousand words.
Please post some photos of the rust you described, so that we can give a solid assessment. Oil leakage can be corrected. Rust on the other hand, depending on how 'bad', not as easily and certainly not cheap.

End of the day, as Chris mentioned, you're looking at a project. Keep in mind, no matter the Jeep you buy, you've got plans to upgrade. Upgrades and refreshing; it's all going to cost you some money and time.



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[StoneCold]

Okay, I took some pics....

I was out yesterday and looked under a few jeeps...some have a lot more rust than this one...even JK's.

Let me know your thoughts.



SC

 

[fourpointzero]

Stone, that doesn't look like anything more than common surface rust. Stick your fingers in the access holes, on the sides of the bottom frame rails. See if you feel large or loose layers of rusting metal.

That other stuff can simply be knocked off w a wire brush (bubbling areas) and lubricated w Fluid Film. Some can be brushed off, cleaned and coated w a petroleum based paint then layered w Fluid Film. You'd be golden, as long as you keep cleaning / hosing off the salts in the winter and keep it 'filmed' when you see that it's needed.


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[Chris]

That really doesn't look that bad. I'd take care of the areas where there is rust and then treat the entire chassis with something like Fluid Film which will prevent rust from ever happening again. Once you do that, I think you'd be golden!

 

[Serbonze]

I agree, it looks like a bunch of surface rust. A wire brush and some rust encapsulater, POR-15, or something similar and you should be good to go.

 

[StoneCold]

SWEET!!

So where should I start after rust treatment? I did check in the frame holes as well. Seems solid to me.

I'm thinking tires (31's). Or should I just lift it and keep the tires?

I will also replace seals and fluids on what I see leaking. And the other fluids. That will give me an idea what is under the covers.

I think I will wheel it with it's inferior axel and such for a bit while I do the other stuff.

Interested in your thoughts on where to go from here. Thanks all.

SC

 

[fourpointzero]

Areas, for example, your spring perches, front end components and axles can all be simply Fluid Filmed and I believe you're good. Frame areas, I would wire brush down and clean w acetone or brake cleaner and coat w a rust converter and Rustoleum or preferred brand of paint over the converter. Or as above mentioned, POR15. Then lastly coat it all w Fluid Film. Which btw, is just incredible at protecting or keeping rust at bay. I've been going two years w that stuff (3 cans) and it's proven, to me, to work.

As for lift / tires: collect images online and search for a local Jeep / offroad event(s) in your area. See what you really like and get inspired. Especially in person. Photos often don't do justice to how awesome or lame things look in person. Once you decide, have fun.

I took a good 2 years (yes, Im too particular / obsessive) to decide what lift and tires to commit to. That included brands and components. Not a single regret.....yet hahaa



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[Chris]

Areas, for example, your spring perches, front end components and axles can all be simply Fluid Filmed and I believe you're good. Frame areas, I would wire brush down and clean w acetone or brake cleaner and coat w a rust converter and Rustoleum or preferred brand of paint over the converter. Or as above mentioned, POR15. Then lastly coat it all w Fluid Film. Which btw, is just incredible at protecting or keeping rust at bay. I've been going two years w that stuff (3 cans) and it's proven, to me, to work.

As for lift / tires: collect images online and search for a local Jeep / offroad event(s) in your area. See what you really like and get inspired. Especially in person. Photos often don't do justice to how awesome or lame things look in person. Once you decide, have fun.

I took a good 2 years (yes, Im too particular / obsessive) to decide what lift and tires to commit to. That included brands and components. Not a single regret.....yet hahaa



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X2 to this. Very solid advice!

 

[Stinger]

Agree. Clean the rust up and apply done kind of protectorate.

What to do next? Go drive that jeep and see what's needed. Don't just start throwing parts at it because somebody said it the newest, greatest, got-to-have thing on the planet. After a few trips you will know what you like and don't like. Depending on where in Colorado you go there are many 4x4 clubs. Join one of them and wheel! Mile a High club in Denver, Colorado Four Wheelers in Colorado Springs come to mind.

 

[StoneCold]

I agree with all of what has been said. It is easy to get wrapped up in thinking everything is gonna grenade unless you do XYZ...

I know unlifted the current tires will rub and maybe take out my flares if I go offroad much. If I replace them it brings everything back in line. That's about $800 ish for 5. Looking through a bunch of posts here on the site....The OME 2.5" HD lift plus a 1" body lift is about $1000... theoretically for a couple hundred bucks I can run the tires I have and do some improvements to the TJ. Shouldn't have to compensate for angles and driveline - maybe. Although a transfer case drop at the skid might be needed. The 3.73 gears won't be awesome, but will work for now. I also think the OME lift is designed around having a winch up front. I have one sitting in the garage I can mount. Minimal cost to add that..

So, sound like a good plan? Or am I missing something?

StoneCold

 

[Chris]

I agree with all of what has been said. It is easy to get wrapped up in thinking everything is gonna grenade unless you do XYZ...

I know unlifted the current tires will rub and maybe take out my flares if I go offroad much. If I replace them it brings everything back in line. That's about $800 ish for 5. Looking through a bunch of posts here on the site....The OME 2.5" HD lift plus a 1" body lift is about $1000... theoretically for a couple hundred bucks I can run the tires I have and do some improvements to the TJ. Shouldn't have to compensate for angles and driveline - maybe. Although a transfer case drop at the skid might be needed. The 3.73 gears won't be awesome, but will work for now. I also think the OME lift is designed around having a winch up front. I have one sitting in the garage I can mount. Minimal cost to add that..

So, sound like a good plan? Or am I missing something?

StoneCold

I think that sounds like a perfect plan.

One step at a time. You can do a lift and worry about things like gearing later. Sure, 3.73 won't be ideal, but trust me, it's not going to be excruciating to drive with that gear ratio even for a year. I've done it before!

 

[Jeep9748]

Stone cold I just finished up a 2000 tj 4 banger for my niece. (16) mother in law bought the thing, it was rough. I talked about in the thread 2000 tj revive. It was a whole mess rougher than what you posted. Sum it up, hours of sanding and grinding rust relaiming paint and flat black paint later it is better. I would recommend fixing the underneath items and suspension/steering issues. To me the important items are the ones not seen....aka ball joints, tierods, control arms, bushings, end links, fluids, seals, etc. The stuff that is seen is primarily cosmetic to a point. My motto is Function over Flair.

 

[Jeep9748]

I also spent three weeks removing frozen bolts and components and ensuring everything was functional, let her deal with flair

 

[StoneCold]

BOOM !

I saw your threadJeep9748....I think I'm a few steps ahead at the moment. I figure the lift will improve some things - function - and I can get the other leaks, drips, joints, in the works. Everything works good right now, just leaking a little.

I'll be working on it!

Thanks for the encouragement Chris!

SC