Time to build (help me decide)

TRevs

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I've had the LJ for about a year now. Life has been too busy for any major modifications yet so I'm still on 33 x 12.5s and the previous owner's 2-3" spacer lift; everything else is stock. I've hit enough trails to know what I want out of it and I'll have some time soon to work on it.

My main goals are to:
1) run the 33's I have for moderate obstacles; no interest in larger tires or rock crawling.
2) avoid vibes and wonky suspension/driveshaft issues. I have a lot of highway miles to drive to access the trails. I'm happy with the current handling (although the shocks seem way to stiff and will be replaced).

Budget is not a severe limitation, although saving $ will make the lockers and re-gear happen sooner.

It would be a bonus if I can keep the stock control arms, but that's not necessary.

I've read many build threads (A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift) including Chris's classic guide (several times) and am still unsure:

With a 2-2.5" spring (e.g. OME), I may not have enough clearance for 33's. That's about what I have on my spacers and I've stuffed the tire too far into the rear well a couple times. Maybe that just means I need bump stop (I think I have no more than stock and the jounce bumper is toast). Maybe it means I need the body lift (but I've seen threads where that displaces the shifter on the NSG370 into the console so the body lift isn't recommended unless paired with TT, which I'm not up for).

With 4" (Currie, Zone) I'm worried about vibes. I don't want to change the drive shaft or go with SYE.

Which leaves something in the middle like JKS 3" dual rate springs.

Hit me with the advice!
 
You're missing the most important ingredient of all, literally... a 1.25" body lift.

Throw that body lift on there with the 2.5" suspension lift and you'll be at 3.75", which is perfect for 33s. That's exactly what I would do in your situation.

If you're oppose to the body lift (which you shouldn't be) or have no intentions of ever doing a belly-up skid, then I'd personally go for a Currie / Savvy 4" short arm lift instead.
 
You're missing the most important ingredient of all, literally... a 1.25" body lift.

Throw that body lift on there with the 2.5" suspension lift and you'll be at 3.75", which is perfect for 33s. That's exactly what I would do in your situation.

I 100% agree with this. Go with either the OME lift or the lift I put together (A recipe for an affordable but quality 2.5" lift) and add a 1.25" Body lift and you should be golden. Since it's an LJ you shouldn't have any vibes and you can still use your stock control arms.
 
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1.25" BL paired with a 1" MML should counteract the wonkiness of the shifter issues. The MML will aid in ds angles, if that becomes an issue, which it shouldn't with your LJ's longer ds. OME, BDS, or Procomp 2" springs and you are set. Cycle the suspension springs out and get your bump stop extensions right.
 
Yep, I wouldn't even be the least bit worried about vibes with your Unlimited model. Your driveshaft is significantly longer.
 
This thread made me hesitate on the body lift:
(1) NSG370 shifter hitting after body lift | Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum

They say the '05-'06 shifter is different and hits the console and shreds the shift boot. JMT's solution was the full tummy tuck/SYE/adjustable CA

Ah man, you're going to have the same problem I had. I have an 05 with the 6-speed, we have the same lower shifter boot. Mine tore to shreds after I got my 1.25" BL. I'm curious, do you also have a MML (Motor Mount Lift)? WARNING: If you just put a new lower shift boot on there to keep all that heat from coming into your cab, you're just going to end up tearing it up again. I had to move the shifter connection point up to get it out of where the rubber is supposed to be AND I had to move the console back 1".

Here was my procedure and you can pick and choose what you might need for your exact needs:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/page-28