Rear track bar contacting gas tank skid after tummy tuck

I’ll go with whatever he suggests, but I have a feeling it’s going to be the lowers.

I’m going to get the exhaust lowered more today. That thing is way too close the floor pan after the tuck, haha. The buzzing is driving me nuts.

Did they cut the cat hanger to get it up that high?
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Did they cut the cat hanger to get it up that high?
View attachment 40311

Nope, and that's the issue! They need to do one of two things. Either cut the hanger bracket to bring the exhaust down, or just extend the hanger coming off the exhaust pipe, so that it sits lower. I think the latter would be easier.

But they're going to do that today, as well as re-route the tailpipe in the rear, as it's coming too close to the fuel tank skid.
 
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On my old TJ, and most others I've seen, the upper perches get relocated. Moving lowers seems to be more work, IMO.

I relocated the factory ones. For my situation flipping them from side to side worked best because of the track bar bracket on the frame. My bump stops were still a little off but aligned well enough to work properly.

image.jpeg image.jpeg

I did have an issue with the spring then hitting the frame track bar bolt so had to make sure the spring was rotated in a specific orientation. The one mod begets another mod is SO true.

image.jpeg image.jpeg

I did have track bar rubbing issues with my Rokmen skid but it was just minor enough that it self clearanced. ️

My LJ will be a custom 4 link so no track bar to worry about and can set everything properly to begin with.


I’ll go with whatever he suggests, but I have a feeling it’s going to be the lowers.

I’m going to get the exhaust lowered more today. That thing is way too close the floor pan after the tuck, haha. The buzzing is driving me nuts.
 
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@Chris: Did you ever get this fully sorted? I have exactly the same problem as you described with the track bar hitting the gas tank cross member bracket.

Here's my setup: '05 TJR; Savvy tummy tuck; Savvy GTS; OME 2.5" lift w/OME Track Bar relocation bracket; Rough Country Adjustable Rear Track Bar; Double cardan rear DS; double adjustable UCA & LCA; Rear axle rotated to provide ~1* downward pinion angle; LCA as short as they will go

When cycling the suspension the track bar is still hitting the front of the tank mounting bracket.

I've just ordered the JKS Angled Rear Track Bar Relocation kit for the TJ and really hope this resolves the issue, but wondered how things worked out for you.

~John
 
I had the same issue, similar set up. I took a BFH to the gas tank skid and got mostly there. Then I shortened all 4 rear control arms by about a 1/4” and that get me the rest of the clearance. I do have the angled track bar bracket.
 
@Chris: Did you ever get this fully sorted? I have exactly the same problem as you described with the track bar hitting the gas tank cross member bracket.

Here's my setup: '05 TJR; Savvy tummy tuck; Savvy GTS; OME 2.5" lift w/OME Track Bar relocation bracket; Rough Country Adjustable Rear Track Bar; Double cardan rear DS; double adjustable UCA & LCA; Rear axle rotated to provide ~1* downward pinion angle; LCA as short as they will go

When cycling the suspension the track bar is still hitting the front of the tank mounting bracket.

I've just ordered the JKS Angled Rear Track Bar Relocation kit for the TJ and really hope this resolves the issue, but wondered how things worked out for you.

~John

I did get it sorted. I bought a GenRight fuel tank (the EXT stretch tank) and that gave me nearly 3" extra of clearance, so I never had an issue with the track bar even coming close to the fuel tank after that!
 
the pictures that were posted on page two was my project (with the help of others). We clocked the brackets like stated and also had to trim the gas tank skid in order to clear at full bump. On an outboard project a few weeks ago it was the same thing, we had to trim the cross member and skid to clear the track bar at full bump.
 
Ok, so just to make sure I am understanding you correctly, you cut the brackets off of the axle and rewelded them back on more vertical? I am going to be going to a 4 in lift and I have to buy brackets and weld them on. i am planning on setting the pinion angle before I weld them on so that my brackets are more inline to the factory spec location, just at a new lift height. Would that have worked in your situation? Thanks Tim
 
Ok, so just to make sure I am understanding you correctly, you cut the brackets off of the axle and rewelded them back on more vertical? I am going to be going to a 4 in lift and I have to buy brackets and weld them on. i am planning on setting the pinion angle before I weld them on so that my brackets are more inline to the factory spec location, just at a new lift height. Would that have worked in your situation? Thanks Tim

I cut the originals off and welded new ones on. It was a lot of trial and error, running to full bump/droop mutliple times, grind/tack/grind/tack/grind/tack etc..They are in a more forward position than they were from factory. Centered the bumpstops at full stuff, positioned to keep the diff out of the tank, positioned to eliminate bind in the track bar as well as interference in other areas. It was a very long weekend.
 
Who designed those brackets? Did you change the lowers and frame brackets?
I designed and build them @jeepwest. Prior I was making bolt on brackets but always just welded them instead.

Used with lower arms 15.5-24", the frame side needs to drop, the axle end gets raised.

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I designed and build them @jeepwest. Prior I was making bolt on brackets but always just welded them instead.

Used with lower arms 15.5-24", the frame side needs to drop, the axle end gets raised.

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Dave, good to see you participate here. Wish you came more often.

Typically at what level of lift height (or other mods like Tummy Tuck ...) do you start doing geometry correction in your builds at Jeep West? And what all do you do in your geometry correction builds typically?
 
Well those brackets are very similar to the Nth relocation...I wish I could ride in a rig that has this style of brackets. I wonder how much different it is from the Savvy mid arm for ride quality. Tim
 
Dave, good to see you participate here. Wish you came more often.

Typically at what level of lift height (or other mods like Tummy Tuck ...) do you start doing geometry correction in your builds at Jeep West? And what all do you do in your geometry correction builds typically?
2.5" lift is where I start putting on geometry correction or track bar relocation if it's in the budget.

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Well those brackets are very similar to the Nth relocation...I wish I could ride in a rig that has this style of brackets. I wonder how much different it is from the Savvy mid arm for ride quality. Tim
Not to be condescending, savvy has proven itself and drive great, but the savvy is a tipsy boat feel and could use a tad more antisquat, in comparison to the 4link/panhard with geometry correction, @3.5-6" lift, IMHO. Ride quality depends more on the shocks. Most of my rear mid arm control arms are 22.5", fronts are 26-30" depending on the intended shock travel. If there is a rear stretch, I'll bump the rear length to 26/28".

The lj's I build with 28" rears, which basically lands the frame mounts in the same spot on the frame as the tj in relation to the body mounts and skid.

Pic is 14" travel front w/30" and 22.5" rear 14" travel.
Poser rock on Fire Break 5.
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