Confirming Part Number for Moog Rear Sway Bar End Links

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Could anyone possibly confirm the following Moog part #'s to replace rear sway bar bushings and links?

Rear Sway Bar Bushings - Moog K3160

Rear Sway Bar Link - Moog K80244 (2x)

 

[Steel City 06]

I don’t know it off the top of my head, but use the rockauto.com catalog to double check the part numbers.

Rock auto is usually dead on in having the correct parts for the year/make/model

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Oh man, thanks! I never noticed that "buyer's guide" pop-up before...I've only used their site a handful of times for pricing but usually go with Amazon. Amazon however is usually NOT dead on when confirming compatability for years/makes/models

Heck, price is wayyyy better too

 

[Drippy]

#k80244 is correct for the rear end links.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

#k80244 is correct for the rear end links.

I haven't found a solid guide for this job and the videos I've seen are choppy/sloppy at best. That said, it looks about as straightforward as the fronts (both bushings and links) as best I can tell.

Am I missing anything or is it really pretty simple?

Also, had no idea how dramatically new links/bushings in front would improve ride quality. The difference is as noticeable as when I first added the new shocks and springs.

 

[Drippy]

I can't speak on the sway bar bushings itself. I have the energy suspension poly bushings. It is a easy job. Unbolt the mounts and slip in the bushings and reuse the oe mounts. Same thing witht the end links. Remove bolts, install end links, replace bolts. That's it.

The difference is marginal. Unless your oe bushings are torn to bits.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I can't speak on the sway bar bushings itself. I have the energy suspension poly bushings. It is a easy job. Unbolt the mounts and slip in the bushings and reuse the oe mounts. Same thing witht the end links. Remove bolts, install end links, replace bolts. That's it.

The difference is marginal. Unless your oe bushings are torn to bits.

Right so same as front basically - can't speak to the rear but the difference after replacing front was night and day...granted one had finally busted but before that I'm not sure I realized how worn out they were. Has helped tremendously with reducing bump steer and just providing an overall more stable ride.

I got under there and found a bit of play in the links, minimal but it's there, so I'm planning to replace anyway. Thanks for replies all.

 

[cliffish]

I don't think some play in the rear links is an issue, but I did the same as you and replaced them. Cheap enough to replace the entire link, and easier than the front. For the front I had to use a tie rod puller to seperate them up top. The rears are just nut and bolts top and bottom. BTW the new links never changed the feel of the TJ driving.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I don't think some play in the rear links is an issue, but I did the same as you and replaced them. Cheap enough to replace the entire link, and easier than the front. For the front I had to use a tie rod puller to seperate them up top. The rears are just nut and bolts top and bottom. BTW the new links never changed the feel of the TJ driving.

I think you're likely right and I don't anticipate much improvement - it may be that I'm spending money in search of a problem. the front was where the real issues were anyway. I'm shooting for a full refresh though, especially with the suspension and so I'm trying to hit just about everything I can. I want to replace every bushing eventually.

Funny you say that about the front, the first one I did literally just fell out. After all I'd read about what a pain it can be to remove them, I thought "huh maybe this won't be that bad". Dumb.

The other side took over an hour. We eventually ended up just cutting the top bolt off and when we did that, we accidentally "welded" it to the sway bar. So most of that hour was spent drilling and hammering with a punch until we finally were able to pop it out. Super easy to complete the job after that though

You can imagine how pleased I was to crawl under there and see it's just nuts and bolts like the bottom of the front links.

 

[cliffish]

The way I looked at it, is my TJ has 100K on it and everything looked original. Simple and inexpensive parts got replaced...Bought all new control arms and spent hours just getting the lower fronts off. Had to resort to a cutoff wheel and carefully cut the bottom bolts off between the brackets. Still have not done the rest yet.

If you used a tie rod press/ball joint press the front would have come off with a bang.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

The way I looked at it, is my TJ has 100K on it and everything looked original. Simple and inexpensive parts got replaced...Bought all new controll arms and spent hours just getting the lower fronts off. Had to resort to a cutoff wheel and carfully cut the bottom bolts off between the brackets. Still have not done the rest yet.

I'm in the same boat...just hit 96k and all stock/original. My build plan is basically "slightly improved stock" and I'm doing the same as you. Bummed to hear the CA's were that bad, they're definitely on my to-do list and I kinda thought they'd be fairly straightforward...but I gotta get to fluids first once I make space/time for it.

I'm lucky enough to have a father-in-law with just about all the tools I could ever possibly need for pretty much any job. Downside is that I have a father-in-law with just about every tool I could ever possibly need...I don't know if he'll let me just get new CA's He's in the process of replacing all the CA bushings and I imagine he'll want me to do the same rather buy new ha

 

[cliffish]

If he has a press you can replace the bushings...but you still have to get the arms off. For me it was well under $200 for all new Crown arms with bushing installed.

 

[03 Rubi]

Any ideas on where to just get the bushings? 2003 Rubicon.

Al in Tucson