I hate S.P.O.T. (stupid previous owner tricks)

[indio]

Previous owner painted bedliner in the back section of my TJ, in the process covering up the holes for the rear seat mounting brackets. No problem, I'll just poke/cut a hole through the bedliner, to reveal the mounting holes? No, because this dude apparently left the bolts installed, and ground down the heads flush with the floor, then covered with the bedliner! What the ... Now I have to somehow remove the bolts, which no longer have a head to turn, and aren't exactly free turning given years of corrosion. I might have to end up cutting the nuts free from under the body, which will be difficult to access. Dang.

 

[Chris]

Wow! That's some stupid shit right there. Someone deserves to be knocked upside the head for that one.

 

[89grand]

Wow! That's some stupid shit right there. Someone deserves to be knocked upside the head for that one.

I was just going to say "People do some stupid shit", and then I see your post. lol

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

Can you grab the remainder of the bolt with a pair of vicegrips from the bottom, and thread the body of the bolt all the way through? I was able to do this with a rear shock bolt, after the head snapped off.

 

[Twopoint]

it looks like you might be able to heat those up from underneath,
then use a pair of vise grips to start to spin them out

 

[theRealCrazy]

I feel your pain, not as bad as yours, but mine glued the entire carpet (and not just the edges btw, the entire thing..)... I know i need to spend days removing it an cleaning residue, it's going to be messy as hell and i hate him for that... but I'll still take mine over yours

 

[Head Lice]

Can you spray them with . . . .
Vice-Grip the bolt shank and turn.
Nut splitter ?

 

[indio]

I'm thinking of trying the following steps in this order:

1) Thread a new nut (or two cinched tight together if there is room) onto the bolt. If these new nuts get stuck enough on the rusted bolt, then maybe by turning the new nuts, they will act as a kind of bolt head, and break the bolt free of the captive body nut.
2) Vice grips on the bolt (since at that point won't matter if I mess up the threads).
3) Grind or hacksaw blade where the nuts are welded to the underbody. (Not thrilled about sparks near the gas tank, so probably will go hacksaw route.)
4) With hole saw drill from above and remove the floor area including captive nut. This will result in at least 7/8 inch holes in the floor.

Unfortunately heating the nut is a last resort, because I fear it will cause the bedliner above to melt.

 

[MountaineerTom]

If there isn't any of the head of the bolt left interfering with it going in further, and you have the room, you might be able to get one of those bolt extractor sockets on the under side and get it to turn out as if you were installing the bolt. Over the years I've had success using a set of Craftsman bolt extractors on various stripped bolt heads. The flutes do a good job of cutting in and grabbing. I've never tried it in that manner though. I'm sure there are other brands too, I know Irwin makes a set also.

 

[MountaineerTom]

I'm thinking of trying the following steps in this order:

1) Thread a new nut (or two cinched tight together if there is room) onto the bolt. If these new nuts get stuck enough on the rusted bolt, then maybe by turning the new nuts, they will act as a kind of bolt head, and break the bolt free of the captive body nut.
2) Vice grips on the bolt (since at that point won't matter if I mess up the threads).
3) Grind or hacksaw blade where the nuts are welded to the underbody. (Not thrilled about sparks near the gas tank, so probably will go hacksaw route.)
4) With hole saw drill from above and remove the floor area including captive nut. This will result in at least 7/8 inch holes in the floor.

Unfortunately heating the nut is a last resort, because I fear it will cause the bedliner above to melt.

#1 is a good idea if you have room to get two one there. If you can find at least one nut in a thinner low profile design that might help.

spraying with Aero croil, pb blaster or a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone will help some too.

 

[strumble8]

If you have a welder you can weld a nut to the bottom side threads than you can get a wrench on it, and the heat from welding may be enough to bust it free

 

[Twopoint]

I'm thinking of trying the following steps in this order:

1) Thread a new nut (or two cinched tight together if there is room) onto the bolt. If these new nuts get stuck enough on the rusted bolt, then maybe by turning the new nuts, they will act as a kind of bolt head, and break the bolt free of the captive body nut.
2) Vice grips on the bolt (since at that point won't matter if I mess up the threads).
3) Grind or hacksaw blade where the nuts are welded to the underbody. (Not thrilled about sparks near the gas tank, so probably will go hacksaw route.)
4) With hole saw drill from above and remove the floor area including captive nut. This will result in at least 7/8 inch holes in the floor.

Unfortunately heating the nut is a last resort, because I fear it will cause the bedliner above to melt.

heat should not be a problem, you aim the flame directly at the bolt, you can put a wet rag/ sponge on the bedliner to keep it cool

 

[ScottyZ]

If you have a welder you can weld a nut to the bottom side threads than you can get a wrench on it, and the heat from welding may be enough to bust it free

X2

 

[Twopoint]

you may be able to thread it down, if they removed enough of the head, but in my experience, its not a good chance

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

how about drilling a hole in the top to use an easy out?

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

how about drilling a hole in the top to use an easy out?

Just a big enough hole itself may loosen the bolts to the point that that they could be screwed out with some pliers from underneath.

 

[Twopoint]

how about drilling a hole in the top to use an easy out?

very 1st post from the OP:
Previous owner painted bedliner in the back section of my TJ, in the process covering up the holes for the rear seat mounting brackets. No problem, I'll just poke/cut a hole through the bedliner, to reveal the mounting holes? No, because this dude apparently left the bolts installed, and ground down the heads flush with the floor, then covered with the bedliner! What the ... Now I have to somehow remove the bolts, which no longer have a head to turn, and aren't exactly free turning given years of corrosion. I might have to end up cutting the nuts free from under the body, which will be difficult to access. Dang.

 

[C.J. Roberts]

Maybe get hold of them at the bottom and screw them back up through the floor.

 

[matkal]

Drill them out with a left hand drill bit?

 

[mrblaine]

Can you grab the remainder of the bolt with a pair of vicegrips from the bottom, and thread the body of the bolt all the way through? I was able to do this with a rear shock bolt, after the head snapped off.

Get some Kroil on them and then try that, certainly will work if anything will.