Body mount bolts, bushings and rust

These I believe are the OEM specs, meaning grade 8 although aftermarket kits sell grade 5, like Savvy and JKS.

I dont know if these companies choose grade 5 because it is less expensive or if they do the job and grade 8 is overkill.

Grille Mount & Rear Body Mount Bolt;
5 Required;
7/16″-14 x 2-3/4″ Flanged Grade 8 Bolt.

Front Body Mount Bolt;
6 Required;
1/2″-13 x 3-3/4″ Flanged Grade 8 Bolt.

From the McMaster Carr Catalog (web). While not flanged, a washer under the head will accomplish the same thing; a distribution of clamping force. You can always cut the extra off with a wafer wheel and/or shim with washers if too long. You may find the extra length will fit.

3"Fully Threaded__Coarse5/8"19/64"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429192620A68512.26
3"Partially Threaded1 1/8"Coarse5/8"19/64"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J4291091257A6819.76

3 3/4"Partially Threaded1 1/4"Coarse3/4"11/32"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429591257A7278.39
4"Fully Threaded__Coarse3/4"11/32"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429192620A7274.48
 
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From the McMaster Carr Catalog (web). While not flanged, a washer under the head will accomplish the same thing; a distribution of clamping force. You can always cut the extra off with a wafer wheel and/or shim with washers if too long. You may find the extra length will fit.

3"Fully Threaded__Coarse5/8"19/64"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429192620A68512.26
3"Partially Threaded1 1/8"Coarse5/8"19/64"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J4291091257A6819.76

3 3/4"Partially Threaded1 1/4"Coarse3/4"11/32"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429591257A7278.39
4"Fully Threaded__Coarse3/4"11/32"150,000ASME B18.2.1, SAE J429192620A7274.48

Thanks for this, but the price tag creeps up to since they sell the 3.75" in packs of 5 and 6 are needed, so that is $17 plus $10 for the 3", add tax and shipping and we are close to $40 vs the $57 from Jeepbolts, and with Jeepbolts no cutting of the 3" bolts down to 2.75".

Thank you
 
Thanks for this, but the price tag creeps up to since they sell the 3.75" in packs of 5 and 6 are needed, so that is $17 plus $10 for the 3", add tax and shipping and we are close to $40 vs the $57 from Jeepbolts, and with Jeepbolts no cutting of the 3" bolts down to 2.75".

Thank you

You're welcome. Just trying to save you a little money as well as pointing out there are other sources to supply what you are looking for.
 
You're welcome. Just trying to save you a little money as well as pointing out there are other sources to supply what you are looking for.

I do appreciate and that and also tried to seek cheaper priced bolts as it sucks paying that much for just bolts. I was surprised boltdepot didn't carry them as they are my usual go to store for bolts/screws.
 
It doesn't always work out, but mcmaster isn't a bad source. They also have bumax stainless that exceeds grade 8 in limited sizes.

I have ordered from McMaster Carr at night online and have the order delivered the next day. I must be near a warehouse.
 
These I believe are the OEM specs, meaning grade 8 although aftermarket kits sell grade 5, like Savvy and JKS.

I dont know if these companies choose grade 5 because it is less expensive or if they do the job and grade 8 is overkill.

Grille Mount & Rear Body Mount Bolt;
5 Required;
7/16″-14 x 2-3/4″ Flanged Grade 8 Bolt.

Front Body Mount Bolt;
6 Required;
1/2″-13 x 3-3/4″ Flanged Grade 8 Bolt.

My understanding is grade 5 depending on the application, can be better than grade 8. I recall it has to do with resistance to shearing compared to clamping strength. Basically the grade 5 can have more "give" in terms of forces that hit the bolt sideways/shear. Sorry that is not a good explanation, maybe someone with engineering experience can chime in if I got that wrong.
 
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I'd say go to Tractor Supply they sell their bolts by the pound not by the Bolt

No need to buy a pound of bolts since 11 bolts are needed, 5 of one size and 6 of another. I purchased the OEM bolts from jeepbolts, my assumption is they are the crown but I will find out soon enough. The cost sucks but I'd rather have the proper bolts than playing games.
 
Why would anyone order from McMaster Carr or Granger for 11 bolts and pay their outrageous prices? You can get the same grade 5 or grade 8 bolt from a real hardware store. Plus you can have them when you leave.
 
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Why would anyone order from McMaster Carr or Granger for 11 bolts and pay their outrageous prices? You can get the same grade 5 or grade 8 bolt from a real hardware store. Plus you can have them when you leave.

Yes and no. These sizes are not readily available at hardware stores, boltdepot is my go to place for bolts/nuts and even they didn't carry the proper size.
 
I would stick with a grade 5 stainless from bolt depot. The rust belt heavyweight @Mike_H has spoken and I would go with his advice. You’re more than up to snuff and with the stainless.
 
No need to buy a pound of bolts since 11 bolts are needed, 5 of one size and 6 of another. I purchased the OEM bolts from jeepbolts, my assumption is they are the crown but I will find out soon enough. The cost sucks but I'd rather have the proper bolts than playing games.
I go to tractor supply too. What he means is they weigh out bolts, not that you have to buy a pound. It’s weigh cheaper (had to spell it that way for fun). I mean like way cheaper. Probably $2 for all the bolts
 
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My point is; try them you might be surprised at what they have.

Oh I tried the local hardware shop plus TSC, but no dice. I totally get what you are saying though and appreciate the comment.

I go to tractor supply too. What he means is they weigh out bolts, not that you have to buy a pound. It’s weigh cheaper (had to spell it that way for fun). I mean like way cheaper. Probably $2 for all the bolts

TSC did not have them in stock at the store by me.

I would stick with a grade 5 stainless from bolt depot. The rust belt heavyweight @Mike_H has spoken and I would go with his advice. You’re more than up to snuff and with the stainless.

I went with grade 8 stock since I do not want a weaker bolt holding the tub to the frame. Since I dont know for sure if a grade 5 would work, and it just might be perfectly fine, it was an unnecessary risk to take.
 
i didn't know about Tractor Supply either until after I'd already bought all of mine and it was like 40 bucks for it at the hardware store
 
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Why would anyone order from McMaster Carr or Granger for 11 bolts and pay their outrageous prices? You can get the same grade 5 or grade 8 bolt from a real hardware store. Plus you can have them when you leave.
Because it costs the company more time to drive to the hardware store, hunt for and dig through bins to save $2. When you are working on your own stuff your hardware store trip is free AND you get to drive there in the Jeep .

I know they aren't the cheapest, but if we (as a company) or I personally order them before about 5:00 they are in my hands by noon the next day. Even most of the local industrial bolt suppliers can't beat the convenience.
 
Because it costs the company more time to drive to the hardware store, hunt for and dig through bins to save $2. When you are working on your own stuff your hardware store trip is free AND you get to drive there in the Jeep .

I know they aren't the cheapest, but if we (as a company) or I personally order them before about 5:00 they are in my hands by noon the next day. Even most of the local industrial bolt suppliers can't beat the convenience.
He is dead right , or actually “dude right”....lost time or lost production to save 67 cents on a bolt doesn’t work.

Years ago when I was a tile setter , I had a helper spend 30 minutes cleaning a bucket..He cost me 7.50. I could get a new bucket for a dollar back then. Please man , just throw the bucket away.
 
Could they be stamped like a metric that says 8.8 on the head that is causing the confusion?
 
In the middle of the rear bumper install and I can happily report all 11 bolts came out cleanly. I used a 3/8 drive ratchet with 5/8 socket, and went super slow, like after each click of the ratchet I paused to listen for rust crunching, and when I heard enough crunching I stopped, and then tighted the bolt a couple clicks, and then went back to removing.

I do intend to use the new bolts as the existing ones were rusty, and I need to hit up TSC to score a couple lower crossmember/bumper bolts as they lost a lot of threads.

The new bumper looks great and is heavy duty for sure, well built and really secured to the rear crossmember and frame.

New vs old bolts

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Lower crossmember/bumper bolts

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