Help figuring out a pinion seal leak

wraith1516

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
315
Location
Michigan, USA
ok so here's the problem pinion seal was leaking though ok no problem got said seal, installed seal, drove for a day seal leaking again. installed correctly (have done many seals basically because to poor or cheap to pay someone to do it)
emery papered yoke no burrs seal is correct for axle (stock ) every thing assembled correctly proper torque am i missing something
 
Did you apply a thin layer or RTV around the seal before installation?
 
What brand of seal? I see a lot of recommendations for SKF but I did not have any luck. I installed an oil slinger and a Dana seal - been dry as a bone for 2 years ;)
 
Last edited:
went over every thing all correctly installed leaking around pinion nothing tore yoke is smooth(emery papered then scotch brited ran cotton ball around it to see if i missed any burrs all good there never had any problems with masterpro seals before seal is in all the way
 
This might not apply to your situation, but I am replacing hub seals on my old Land Rover, and the instructions specifically state NOT to push the seal all the way into the seat. Instead it should only be flush. The instructions state the seal might leak if banged all the way in. Might be apples to oranges, just throwing it out there.
 
I changed mine 3x before finally getting it to stop - even after replacing the yoke on the second try as I had a ring worn into it. My final straw was getting a Dana seal and the slinger - which is just a great big washer that deflects oil back onto the gears. Not available on the Jeep Dana 30 but hunt around and you'll find it. If I had the part number, I'd give it to you.....
 
This might not apply to your situation, but I am replacing hub seals on my old Land Rover, and the instructions specifically state NOT to push the seal all the way into the seat. Instead it should only be flush. The instructions state the seal might leak if banged all the way in. Might be apples to oranges, just throwing it out there.
The Pinion seal has a lip in which you are to insert until it reaches it. It has to go in straight.
 
There are two types of seals. One with a flange and one without. The flange type limits how far the seal is inserted by the outer lip. The other type is seated with an installation tool which makes it flush to the opening in the diff.

Watch for a gouge inside the opening from careless use of a seal remover. This is where a bead of RTV and the flange-type seal make for good insurance.

When your installing the yoke, lube up the seal surface and install it slowly while twisting. You may need a wheel off the ground on an open diff to do this. If you pop the yoke in too fast, you run the risk of the tension spring inside the seal lip popping off inside = leak.