If a roller fairlead will eat a synthetic, it will also kill a steel line. There are some bad designs out there.
Synthetic rope failure: Does it drop or recoil?
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Bad designs? No kidding there.
Still looking for a good roller fairlead for synthetic line. Being a visual thinker though, I almost need to buy one that looks right and mount it up to check it out.
Back to the apples to pineapple comparisons, on a sailboat, even the sheeves need to be changed out for synthetic halyards. Nothing like hanging 40' in the air to fix a jammed halyard to motivate you to get it right the first time.
Let's see some photos of roller fairleads readily available in the U.S. that are suitable for synthetic rope.
Please.
Please.
Okay so what about a composite roller? I’ve seen some talk of these and wanted to hear opinions/input.
Why the groove in the vertical rollers? The groove can not control where the line goes under load, it is useless under no load, therefore it is useless and is only there to show the stupidity of the design. It is a product made by folks looking to hop on a bandwagon with no real value except to see who is paying attention and who isn't.
Mr. Bills said:
mrblaine said:
The roller fairlead currently on my jeep is a S*ittybilt. It will go with the winch when I sell it. (Also, I'm not sure that anything S*ittybilt can ever be described as "suitable.")
The fairlead in the box with my new (as yet uninstalled) Warn M8000-S is an aluminum Warn hawse fairlead P/N 87914.
I am considering the sale of my new Spydura winch rope and hawse fairlead and replacing the rope and hook with TRE rope and Safety Thimble. If I do that I might as well consider a new roller fairlead. That's why I asked about suitable roller fairleads for synthetic rope.
Makes sense, seems like for every good product we talk about on here there’s 100 others that your statement applies to
I have the same on both my Jeeps and they dont appear to have a radius both sides from the picture. I run Zeon Platinum 10 S's on both rigs and the fairleads came with each in the box, I have used both winches a few times and there are signs of damage to the rope on both fairleads where there are traces of melted plastic stuck to the mouth of the fairlead. both fairleads are the same design but different finish on each. This was the reason for my question about the width of the mouth vs the drum as there is more evidence of friction damage at the sides. I'm not at home to snap a picture but I might have one I'll check.
Last edited:
If you are going to run a hawse suitable for synthetic, that one is about as good as it gets provided the back edge stays away from the rope or is nicely radiused.
If you post up a pic of your fairlead, we can likely tell if it is suitable. You are looking for the vertical rollers to be very close front to back to the horizontal rollers and the ends of the horizontal rollers to extend past the midline of the vertical rollers.
Here are some photos of both fairleads the one on the JK has a different finish than the one on the TJ. On the TJ there are traces of melted rope in the side and if you look where the arrow is pointing the casting is not finished smoothly I was under the impression these were billets that were machined.
a Christmas gift, theres a sweater that came with it that I wear once a year too.What the fuck is that shit on the front of the JK's line?
Here's a pic of my Warn M8000 roller fairlead.
I don't see why this fairlead wouldn't be suitable for synthetic.
I don't see why this fairlead wouldn't be suitable for synthetic.
Then the sweater is more useful and less dangerous. If you'll take it off and mail it to me, I'll destroy it for you.
Rudolf the dangerous winch blingWhat the fuck is that shit on the front of the JK's line?
if it was pinned I would agree that it was dangerous but this is a spliced eye and actually safer than the one on the TJ.