Had oil change done at repair shop. They overfilled by at least 1-2 quarts. Wrangler starting running rough and shaking when slowing to idle. Began to get worse. Checked oil and took back. They brought oil level to normal, but condition hasn't improved. When slowing to idle, jeep about dies and shakes terribly. Looking to have input to discuss with shop on fixing problem. They say the overfill has nothing to do with problem. Thanks for anything you may have.
Engine running rough after over-filling oil
- Thread starter Mike T
- Start date
Good reason to change your own oil if physically capable IMO, TJ is a breeze to change oil on. I'm surprised overfilling would cause that issue. How do you know it was 1-2 quarts overfilled? How high above the full mark on the dipstick was your oil level? I will say most shops will point fingers and won't stand behind their work if they screw up, that's why if at all possible I avoid going there, my vehicle usually comes back with something else wrong when they work on it.
How long did it run with the extra oil in it?
If it just ran for 10 minutes or so with the extra oil, it's no big deal. Hell, you could even have driven it around town and it wouldn't be a big deal I'm sure. Technically with all the extra oil, you could blow out seals and gaskets. However, I'm not sure how over-filling the oil would have anything to do with the engine running rough. That just seems coincidental.
Is it throwing a check engine light? If so, have you scanned it to see which codes it's throwing?
If it just ran for 10 minutes or so with the extra oil, it's no big deal. Hell, you could even have driven it around town and it wouldn't be a big deal I'm sure. Technically with all the extra oil, you could blow out seals and gaskets. However, I'm not sure how over-filling the oil would have anything to do with the engine running rough. That just seems coincidental.
Is it throwing a check engine light? If so, have you scanned it to see which codes it's throwing?
Overfilling engine oil can actually break a crank in half in high rpm situations. Crankshafts do not like to be submerged in oil. The oil acts like a brake to the crankshaft when submerged.
Do you have any check engine codes up?
Do you have any check engine codes up?
Hey, appreciate the reply. The dip stick was 1 1/2" above the full line. I will take your advice and begin my own oil change. This I can do. It may be just a coincidence, but had no problems prior to taking it in to the shop. Drove around approximately 175 miles, as the problem began to worsen. That's when I checked the oil and discovered an over-fill situation. No check engine light is on. They stated that it could be a valve regulating ????????? Not sure. Want to take it back in for a check so they may determine what, if anything, correlates to the problem.
It could be just a coincident, but just seems unlikely. I did read that during an overfill, the oil becomes aerated and therefore the oil pump is not pumping oil, as it's mostly air. Curious if this may be causing problem, as engine ran without adequate oil for 175 miles. Thoughts?
It could be just a coincident, but just seems unlikely. I did read that during an overfill, the oil becomes aerated and therefore the oil pump is not pumping oil, as it's mostly air. Curious if this may be causing problem, as engine ran without adequate oil for 175 miles. Thoughts?
Yikes, 1 1/2" over the fill mark is definitely over full. And yes at that level the crank will whip up (aerate) the oil, I do see how lubrication could be an issue. I can promise you overfull is much worse than a little low. I do think over filling could cause the issue of running rough, actually I am positive it could. When the crank whips the oil it completely changes the properties of the oil, I would say it is running rough due to some gummy (for lack of a better term) oil messing with your head, valves, etc. The first thing I would do is drain that oil and fill with fresh and put a new filter in and go from there, hopefully all at your repair shop's expense.
I would verify that it was in fact an oil overfill and not something else like fuel or coolant contaminating the oil.
Are you low on coolant?
Do you smell gas when you open the filler cap on the valve cover?
Is the oil level rising?
Most of us are sometimes guilty of immediately jumping to the conclusion that the last thing done is the cause of next problem that pops up but sometimes it's only a coincidence. If you happened to blow a head gasket shortly after the oil change, it will cause rough running and could leak coolant into the oil pan.
If an injector is leaking, same scenario.
If your oil pan has a lot of something besides oil in it, you need to stop driving it as severe damage will occur quickly. Could already be too late.
Are you low on coolant?
Do you smell gas when you open the filler cap on the valve cover?
Is the oil level rising?
Most of us are sometimes guilty of immediately jumping to the conclusion that the last thing done is the cause of next problem that pops up but sometimes it's only a coincidence. If you happened to blow a head gasket shortly after the oil change, it will cause rough running and could leak coolant into the oil pan.
If an injector is leaking, same scenario.
If your oil pan has a lot of something besides oil in it, you need to stop driving it as severe damage will occur quickly. Could already be too late.
I'm going to take it back tomorrow morning and request they change the oil, save it for me, along with the filter. Sure hope that this hasn't affected my head and valves. Thanks.
Yes, we verified last week. The tech said he thought six quarts were required when in fact only five is needed. Have it stated on the paperwork on my bill. It truly could be a coincidence, but just seems odd that nothing was running bad at all, and as soon as I picked it up, started to run a little rough, then continually increased. Again, I'm taking back in tomorrow and have them drain and change filter out with new oil, hopefully at their expense. Thanks for the input...
I was going to point this out about the oil "foaming" because the crankshaft is working it like an egg beater in the pan. You could have damaged the cam or crank from loss of lubrication. Hope not, but I think your shop screwed you by overfilling it. They say it's worse to over fill than to under fill.
I don't have the FSM or Owner's Manual in front of me but the resources online say an oil change with filter requires 6 quarts.
And even if it was overfilled by a quart, I cannot see how 1 quart would show 1.5" above the full mark on the dipstick.
Good luck with it. Hope you get it resolved with no major damage but I would not be driving it anywhere until I was confident about what it going on.
Pull your plugs and turn the engine over and see if any oil blows out the plug holes. It could have sucked up into the cylinders from below the pistons during down stroke.
Personally I never trust the dipstick. Fill six quarts and see where the level is. The motor is designed to run on six and not some amount based on the dipstick. Funny how most people only check their oil after a change when that is the most useless time to check it. The dipstick isn't a calibrated measure, it's just an estimate so you know when to feed your Jeep more oil when it leaks.
Clarythedrill
Member
Your Idle Air Control Valve could have all of a sudden decided not to work. It is fairly easy to remove and clean, might give that a try. I cleaned mine but it did not completely solve the problem, so I bought a new one and it purrs at idle now.
The oil filter is directly below the coil packs and wiring harness. My guess is either while changing the filter or wiping up the mess from the filter that a wire was either damaged or dislodged. Run a scan on the computer and see if any pending issues show up. Ran a quicky lube type joint for a few years and what they call a "technician" is what I would call a high school dropout.
Just got back from having them change out oil and filter, again. Same problem. Sounds rough, and when coming to stop, just before idle, engine starting shaking like the devil. Then once stopped, it becomes somewhat smooth. Think I'll look at changing out the Idle Control Valve. You say not too difficult? May give it a try and see what happens. Thanks.
I used to run 6 quarts all the time in a 5 quart pan. But I also didn't use a small filter, I ran a 1 quart filter.
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