32RH automatic shifting hard into reverse

[Back In My Dream]

So I finally picked up my girl today. Filled up the tank and drove her home, about 100 miles. Man, what a feeling!!! She ran great, up to 70mph, no rumbles, no shakes. I have determined the tires are 32s, haven't measured lift yet and still need to check gearing (please don't yell at me!).

I've been home a few hours and just went to run to the store, shifting into reverse from P, it shifts really hard. Should I be worried? It didn't sputter, rpms were fine, just rocked into reverse. All other shifts seem perfectly smooth.

 

[AndyG]

Check the fluid per directions on the stick or manual.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Check the fluid per directions on the stick or manual.

Didn't think about something so simple because all of the other shifting is so dreamy lol

 

[Chris]

Start by checking the transmission fluid level.

See this thread for the proper procedure:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...our-30rh-32rh-or-42rle-jeep-wrangler-tj.7901/

 

[AndyG]

Remember that reverse is the biggest change in the transmission , the other shifts are basically adjacent to each other . There's more going on , but fluid is important , from there I would check the wiring ....example, rats damaged a wire on my wife's Lincoln MKX and it shifted horrible . Same with an E-450 I had , damaged harness made for a shifting nightmare...the wires are the communication from the engines computer telling the transmission what it needs to do.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Start by checking the transmission fluid level.

See this thread for the proper procedure:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...our-30rh-32rh-or-42rle-jeep-wrangler-tj.7901/

Thanks, just as I remember on my '95. I do remember cycling thru first then leaving in neutral to check. That will happen first thing tomorrow

 

[Chris]

Thanks, just as I remember on my '95. I do remember cycling thru first then leaving in neutral to check. That will happen first thing tomorrow

Report back with the findings. Sometimes this can be caused merely by low fluid.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks, just as I remember on my '95. I do remember cycling thru first then leaving in neutral to check. That will happen first thing tomorrow

Exactly right, be sure to keep the engine running during the check.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Report back with the findings. Sometimes this can be caused merely by low fluid.

Will do! Thanks guys!!

 

[AndyG]

We require a "next day"report by 10 a.m. central time zone , a weekly report if the issue persists , then you can drop back to monthly if it clears up . After 6 months we close the case and notify our people at Jeep and the other affiliated forums , then keep it on file a year.

Disclaimer : all Forum advice is intended to be helpful , and given with a spirit of care . We cannot accept responsibility for damages caused by contradictory advice on other forums . They may be idiots.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Fluid is a tad low. About 1/4" below the hatch marks. Next stop Auto Zone. Thanks everybody. I'll be sure to report back after filling and a days driving.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Make sure you ONLY add ATF+4. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the front label it's the wrong stuff.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Make sure you ONLY add ATF+4. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the front label it's the wrong stuff.

I was gonna be the goofball that walks in with my manual in my hand . Thanks!

 

[Back In My Dream]

So, it's shifting better. Getting home yesterday was fine, last night to shopping was fine. Now I start her this morning and I have a check engine light. It's going between steady, then flashing. rumbling and shaking a bit but running. Tranny seems fine. Gonna go have the code read in a few. Ugh!!!! I wanna cry

 

[Back In My Dream]

P0302 picked up full set xp985s since I'm trusting the guy I bought her from less and less. and went straight to the shop. Thanks for all the great threads on the cel flashing and everyone troubleshooting! We'll see what happens from here.

 

[AndyG]

Making sure the plugs are properly gapped is so important they won't come correct out of the box.

Usually check engine lights indicate a oxygen sensor...don't be too disheartened remember it's got some miles on it, or at least time.... which ages things.

 

[Back In My Dream]

Making sure the plugs are properly gapped is so important they won't come correct out of the box.

Usually check engine lights indicate a oxygen sensor...don't be too disheartened remember it's got some miles on it, or at least time.... which ages things.

Yeah, that's what makes them amazing. More upset that these guys I bought her from probably shafted me in some ways, and I'm 2 hours from them so it's better to just get it fixed closer to home. They had her for 2weeks after I purchased and were "making sure she's ready for me" so the fact it happened so quick bugs me, and that I had to put tranny fluid in on day 2 even there are no obvious leaks. I think besides an oil change and a questionable inspection, they really did Jack sh*t.

And I trust my guys so I'm sure they'll be fine to check the gap. I'm also gonna ask them to save the plugs they take out. I want evidence lol

 

[Back In My Dream]

Here's what came out! I'm glad I bought the better ones and changed all 6. Also, the CEL was from the cam and pack.

 

[mrblaine]

Remember that reverse is the biggest change in the transmission , the other shifts are basically adjacent to each other . There's more going on , but fluid is important , from there I would check the wiring ....example, rats damaged a wire on my wife's Lincoln MKX and it shifted horrible . Same with an E-450 I had , damaged harness made for a shifting nightmare...the wires are the communication from the engines computer telling the transmission what it needs to do.

There are no wires that control the 32RH shifting. It is a full hydraulic non computer controlled trans. The only electronic portion is the torque converter clutch and even then it can't lock up in 1st due to the way the hydraulic passages are configured.

 

[mrblaine]

Yeah, that's what makes them amazing. More upset that these guys I bought her from probably shafted me in some ways, and I'm 2 hours from them so it's better to just get it fixed closer to home. They had her for 2weeks after I purchased and were "making sure she's ready for me" so the fact it happened so quick bugs me, and that I had to put tranny fluid in on day 2 even there are no obvious leaks. I think besides an oil change and a questionable inspection, they really did Jack sh*t.

And I trust my guys so I'm sure they'll be fine to check the gap. I'm also gonna ask them to save the plugs they take out. I want evidence lol

Not defending them but outside of a whole bunch of work and lots of parts thrown at a rig, there is almost no way to deliver a vehicle that you can predict will not have a problem of some sort at some time.

I would have checked for obvious leaked, cooling system leaks and obvious issues like swelled hoses etc., tires for damage or excessive wear, control arms, chased down known noises, made sure all the fluid levels were good, and then any major obvious defects like a broken or cracked windshield.

Since it has the 32, the newest it can be is 17 years old. You are driving a 17 year old used car. No way to tell anyone it won't have problems or to expect that it won't.

Of course, all of that can change if you pay someone to bring it up to a top reliability state.