Filling the frame with expanding insulating foam?

[toximus]

Since we’re just spitballing here, how about an aluminum rectangle tube frame?

I prefer the triangle tube frame.

 

[chino1969]

Galvanizing dramatically weakens steel.

I gotta call you on this one. Show me some metallurgical data that supports this claim.

 

[Hook_62]

Were any vehicle frames ever galvanized after assembly?

Throttle Down Kustoms will sell you a brand new frame hot dip Galvanized for a mere $4500 depending on options.
https://www.throttledownkustoms.com/i-26373449-tj-wrangler-jeep-frame-1997-2002.html

 

[chino1969]

I know from using it Great Stuff (particularly exposed to the elements) that it degrades, gets pitted, & depending on if/where you wheel it could suffer direct hits by sticks & stuff as you drag through the trails so I believe over time & not much of it you could be getting moisture and/or full on water in the frame that’ll seep around & just get stuck there because of the very thing you put in there to keep it out; & if it’s carrying salt with it that’s even worse.

Also, once you put that stuff in there it is never coming back out, you’re never getting a camera in there to inspect & if there is a failure somewhere & rust is developing you won’t know it/be able to deal with it. I’d suggest sticking with what we know works: flush that puppy out regularly after you’ve submerged it in water and/or after you’ve driven through a snow/ice storm where they’ve salted the roads. Just remember rust needs water to happen so deprive the iron of water as much as you can by keeping that frame as airy as it can be for maximum air flow to dry out as quickly as possible following any kind of water related event.

What Willy said Keeping a frame rust free in the northeast is an ongoing preventive maintenance process.

 

[mrblaine]

Some genius did this to one I got.... I'd say it didn't work.

View attachment 117933

View attachment 117934

That is the classic chicken/egg scenario. I'd suggest that the foam was put in there after it was highly rusted to give the bondo some place to stick so he could hide the damage.

 

[mrblaine]

I gotta call you on this one. Show me some metallurgical data that supports this claim.

There isn't any.

 

[Bofa-Deez]

There isn't any.

All those galvanized boat trailers on the road down here would be a serious safety hazard. I mean, some of them are, but not due to galvanizing

 

[mrblaine]

All those galvanized boat trailers on the road down here would be a serious safety hazard. I mean, some of them are, but not due to galvanizing

Typical but not unexpected. The best part is he won't come back and address his error if past behavior is any indication.

 

[tworley]

Years ago on a motorcycle forum I frequent, someone suggested adding concrete within the engine guards to make them stronger

 

[mrblaine]

Years ago on a motorcycle forum I frequent, someone suggested adding concrete within the engine guards to make them stronger

There is actually some merit to that. Tube is very strong until it gets dented and then it fails at the dent with a quickness. We do similar to tubes we need to remain in good condition in high abuse applications like rock rails or slide rails on race cars. It is common to slide a piece of solid aluminum inside to stop the denting and add minimal weight.

 

[toximus]

Throttle Down Kustoms will sell you a brand new frame hot dip Galvanized for a mere $4500 depending on options.
https://www.throttledownkustoms.com/i-26373449-tj-wrangler-jeep-frame-1997-2002.html

Unfortunately it's not the same as factory and can lead to some complications.

 

[alittleoff]

IMO, some manufacturers, not all, build things to be replaced and not to last.
It's the classic, "profit before people" kind of thinking of todays manufacturing (some , not all) companies.

 

[Hook_62]

Unfortunately it's not the same as factory and can lead to some complications.

Sounds like you have some experience with them? What are the complications, drastic or fairly simple?

 

[PCO6]

Years ago on a motorcycle forum I frequent, someone suggested adding concrete within the engine guards to make them stronger

I used to restore MGA's. I couldn't tell you how many I owned, worked on or parted out. I picked up one that had been stripped of a lot of mechanical parts but had some body panels that could be salvaged. When a friend and I loaded it on to a trailer we couldn't believe how heavy it was, especially with all the missing mechanical bits.

When we got it back to the shop we realized that a previous owner filled the frame with concrete in many of the usual rust spots. MGA's have wood floorboards and the frame rusts from the interior out. Most of them can be repaired ... but not the ones with concrete in them!

 

[toximus]

Sounds like you have some experience with them? What are the complications, drastic or fairly simple?

I had looked into them before building my own frame.

They'd probably be fine for a street Jeep with light modifications, but the complications come in due to the size of tubing they used for the frame. Stock is 2.5x4, they used 2x4. This means that skid plates won't bolt right up, body mount brackets stick out further, and control arm brackets stick out further. On the more extreme end, weld on brackets like the Savvy mid-arm will not fit right on the frame anymore. They also used round DOM tubing for the front crossmember which has less strength than OEM and won't allow an Antirock style swaybar to bolt right up without changes.

 

[Hook_62]

I had looked into them before building my own frame.

They'd probably be fine for a street Jeep with light modifications, but the complications come in due to the size of tubing they used for the frame. Stock is 2.5x4, they used 2x4. This means that skid plates won't bolt right up, body mount brackets stick out further, and control arm brackets stick out further. On the more extreme end, weld on brackets like the Savvy mid-arm will not fit right on the frame anymore. They also used round DOM tubing for the front crossmember which has less strength than OEM and won't allow an Antirock style swaybar to bolt right up without changes.

That's mostly drastic in my book. Good to know, won't be looking at them in the future. Thanks.

 

[But Rage]

Some genius did this to one I got.... I'd say it didn't work.

View attachment 117933

View attachment 117934

Did he put it in be4 or after the rust began? Cuz it also sounds like a good way to scam sell a wrangler so the frame CANT be examined from inside with a scope... So dude selling, knows frame rusting, spray foam so buyer can't check inside of frame...

 

[But Rage]

Unfortunately it's not the same as factory and can lead to some complications.

Galvanized.... why not stainless steel or fuq it, titanium!?

 

[But Rage]

I had looked into them before building my own frame.

They'd probably be fine for a street Jeep with light modifications, but the complications come in due to the size of tubing they used for the frame. Stock is 2.5x4, they used 2x4. This means that skid plates won't bolt right up, body mount brackets stick out further, and control arm brackets stick out further. On the more extreme end, weld on brackets like the Savvy mid-arm will not fit right on the frame anymore. They also used round DOM tubing for the front crossmember which has less strength than OEM and won't allow an Antirock style swaybar to bolt right up without changes.

Ok, but if your building your own frame I'd hope you knew how to weld and do some metal fab... I mean either way even without the square tubing size you would be very hard pressed to do the axel clearance bends, probably just do it with multiple angled cuts with straight tubing, so it would be modified ANYWAYS... adding half inch wide bar to 2 u channels to make it right dimensions would be cake in comparison to axel clearance bends.

 

[But Rage]

IMO, some manufacturers, not all, build things to be replaced and not to last.
It's the classic, "profit before people" kind of thinking of todays manufacturing (some , not all) companies.

VERY VERY true, like an absolute FACT!!! I just got an AEV Rubicon JKU and was sooo surprised to see soo many Zerks on it, like even the ball joints... Maybe it's because it's an AEV so Alot of stuff was changed, but it seems as wrangers still made with the "build to last" ideology over new vehicles which don't even have 1 zerk fitting, just needs replaced...