Body lift and anything else?

Corbinlane

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Original poster
Joined
Mar 7, 2020
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Location
Houston, Texas
Hey all,

I am thinking about putting a 1” body lift on my 2000 Wrangler to help keep my tires from rubbing. While watching a couple videos I saw guys were installing motor mounts and having issues with switching into 4WD afterwards. Any advice on this? I want to make sure I do what I need to while it’s down.

I know I need to change my bushings as well since some are messed up. Any advise on a good bushing and lift kit set?

Additionally, I saw some people talking about other ways to keep tires from rubbing. Any other advise is appreciated.

Thanks,
Corbin

751E624A-7ADB-4506-8D82-D9280F1B5392.jpeg
 
Hey all,

I am thinking about putting a 1” body lift on my 2000 Wrangler to help keep my tires from rubbing. While watching a couple videos I saw guys were installing motor mounts and having issues with switching into 4WD afterwards. Any advice on this? I want to make sure I do what I need to while it’s down.

I know I need to change my bushings as well since some are messed up. Any advise on a good bushing and lift kit set?

Additionally, I saw some people talking about other ways to keep tires from rubbing. Any other advise is appreciated.

Thanks,
Corbin

View attachment 146217
A small body lift is always a good idea, and you shouldn’t have issues if installing a motor mount lift in addition to the body lift as far as shifting the t-case goes. I didn’t, some do, it varies. You can grab a cable shifter from savvy if it ends up giving you trouble. As far as other ways to gain clearance - what tire size are you running and what spring lift (if any)? Those fender flares are losing you clearance and causing rubbing issues most likely, in addition to not enough bump stop extension.
 
It might not be needed but as the LJ I’m getting is 15 yrs old, and the savvy BL (by far most recommended on this forum) reuses stock body mount bushings I decided to replace these at same time.

I will be doing motor mount lift at same time. There are a number of threads on forum discussing the various MML with top three seeming to be MORE, BrownDog or spacers that go under the stock mounts. I am going with BrownDog with rubber bushings but would suggest reading a couple threads before deciding. One thing I couldn’t decide was if wanted to also do the block side motor mounts at same time as BrownDog sells mounts that use additional additional bolts on each side. I couldn’t find enough reports of this part failing to make me spend the additional $250 or so now but will check things when I install the MML.

BL https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/

Bushings https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/2.4107
 
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The only problem I see with Sourbluff's recommendation is that you are replacing the stock bushings with a polyurethane bushing. I think this would make the ride a lot rougher and transfer more vibration into the body of your Jeep. I would replace the bushings with another similar rubber bushing like this replacement kit from.

https://www.justjeeps.com/jeep-wran...-kit-rubber-for-1997-06-jeep-wrangler-tj.html
 
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JEGS carries the Crown TJ master kit with new hardware for 140 i think.

just got mine last wk i'm pulling parts of the Daystar BL and they are going back to OE rubber when i raise those brackets.

buying 2 new kits sucks and really feels like a kick in the groin, but those full urethane pucks transfer a lot of vibration. i could trim my current poly pucks and negate the expense but the extra vibes are really that annoying.
 
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I read about vibs from poly motor mounts so made sure to go with rubber but don’t know that even connected that to body mount when I was looking. I did do a couple searches and really didn’t find any negative review of the energy suspension body mounts. If I hate them the bolts should be easier to remove and I’ll learn valuable ($) lesson.
 
Hey all,

I am thinking about putting a 1” body lift on my 2000 Wrangler to help keep my tires from rubbing. While watching a couple videos I saw guys were installing motor mounts and having issues with switching into 4WD afterwards. Any advice on this? I want to make sure I do what I need to while it’s down.

I know I need to change my bushings as well since some are messed up. Any advise on a good bushing and lift kit set?

Additionally, I saw some people talking about other ways to keep tires from rubbing. Any other advise is appreciated.

Thanks,
Corbin

View attachment 146217
What tire size? A body lift might help, depending on tire size. It will also require a number of other adjustments; fuel filler elongated, Tcase shifter bracket adjusted

Proper bumpstop will stop tire rub.
 
If you lift the body or raise the engine you change the bell crank angle for the transfer case shifter from the transfer case to the body, this can cause problems but its able to deal with some misalignment. There is an adjustment on one of the linkage rods.
 
A small body lift is always a good idea, and you shouldn’t have issues if installing a motor mount lift in addition to the body lift as far as shifting the t-case goes. I didn’t, some do, it varies. You can grab a cable shifter from savvy if it ends up giving you trouble. As far as other ways to gain clearance - what tire size are you running and what spring lift (if any)? Those fender flares are losing you clearance and causing rubbing issues most likely, in addition to not enough bump stop extension.
Any way to confirm what size spring lift? I just bought this Jeep last weekend and still figuring everything out about it. The back fenders are limiting it and will be changed eventually as well. I’ll have to look if there is any bump stop on the back. The front rubs at full turn and the back rubs on every bump.
 
What tire size? A body lift might help, depending on tire size. It will also require a number of other adjustments; fuel filler elongated, Tcase shifter bracket adjusted

Proper bumpstop will stop tire rub.
Thanks! I’m going to check the suspension lift and tire size first. Then I’ll start with either changing fender or bump stop before getting into body lift. Seems like more work ($) than it’s worth. I’ve never really cared for body lifts but thought it was a easy fix for my problem. Since i need to change my bushings i thought I would kill two birds with one stone.
 
measure the the distance between spring mounts/pads, anything over 12" up front is lift. and anything above 8" in the rear.