Can a TrueTrac LSD be swapped in the Dana 35 replacing the open diff & carrier without having to re-setup the gears? If so, how would I go about it?
Installing LSD without having to re-setup gears
- Thread starter Thumper4fun
- Start date
As far as I know the trutrac replaces the carrier, which is connected to your gears. I'm not sure it's even possible to not
The simple answer is no not possible.
You have about a one-in-a-million chance that your new carrier is absolutely identical down to the thousandth of an inch in every mating surface From the original.
You have about a one-in-a-million chance that your new carrier is absolutely identical down to the thousandth of an inch in every mating surface From the original.
You absolutely can install a new carrier without having to set the gears up again. The only thing that needs to be done is to shim the new carrier like a Truetrac LSD left or right to achieve the correct backlash. That's easy-peasy with nothing more than an inexpensive dial indicator, a mallet, and a set of inexpensive shims. There are plenty of Youtube videos on how to do it but it's easy compared to setting up the R&P gears which is not necessary.
The dial indicator is held onto the housing by its magnet. The ring gear needs to be able to be rotated back & forth slightly which is its backlash. There needs to be a certain amount of backlash so oil can get in between the ring & pinion gears. Shimming the carrier left or right slightly with shims is how the correct amount of backlash is achieved. The dial indicator easily and clearly shows how much backlash is present.
And who knows... perhaps the backlash after the Truetrac is installed might even be within its 0.005-0.008 in. acceptable range as is.
The dial indicator is held onto the housing by its magnet. The ring gear needs to be able to be rotated back & forth slightly which is its backlash. There needs to be a certain amount of backlash so oil can get in between the ring & pinion gears. Shimming the carrier left or right slightly with shims is how the correct amount of backlash is achieved. The dial indicator easily and clearly shows how much backlash is present.
And who knows... perhaps the backlash after the Truetrac is installed might even be within its 0.005-0.008 in. acceptable range as is.
2006TJ1
TJ Enthusiast
Keep in mind that to check backlash, you need a dial indicator & a set of shims. It may be a little intimidating if you haven't done anything of the sort before.
Sorry to revive this thread, but I didn't want to clutter the forum with an identical one. @Thumper4fun did you have any success in doing this? I see your profile has 4.10 gears and a TT in the rear! Did you do the work yourself or just took it in to a shop? I'm looking at doing the same with 4.56 that I had installed two years ago.
I'm also interested as I want to pull the spool the PO installed & replace with a locker. I figured it would just be a matter of using a micrometer to measure curren ring to bearing races and shim new install to the same
Those were my thoughts too. I don't think it would be needed to install new seals or bearings for the axles. But a press would be needed to put the bearings on the new carrier, plus a puller because it probably wouldn't be to spec the first time.
It is not difficult with the correct tools.
Pull cover and drain oil; pull axles; measure backlash; pull carrier; pull ring gear; pull carrier bearings; install ring gear on new carrier; install carrier bearings and shims; install new carrier; measure backlash and adjust as necessary. Make sure to torque everything to spec.
For tools; basic hand tools; magnetic base dial indicator; dial calipers; carrier bearing puller; press to install bearings; torque wrench.
Pull cover and drain oil; pull axles; measure backlash; pull carrier; pull ring gear; pull carrier bearings; install ring gear on new carrier; install carrier bearings and shims; install new carrier; measure backlash and adjust as necessary. Make sure to torque everything to spec.
For tools; basic hand tools; magnetic base dial indicator; dial calipers; carrier bearing puller; press to install bearings; torque wrench.
For sure. For a simple carrier swap dropping the entire housing is too much work. I have the Yukon bearing puller, generic calipers and dial indicator. The big issue is, the Yukon puller is expensive for one time use. There are others but I have not used them.
Sweet, I appreciate the advice. I'll be sure to put in a write up in my build thread when I eventually get to this.
I was very lucky in finding a bearing puller to borrow from people I know a few times. Have you ever seen one for rent/borrow from an auto parts store? I have not after looking at several of my local stores.
I have looked at the local auto parts but none had the correct puller. My guess is that it is a specialized puller so not much use for the garage mechanic.
I bought a generic clamshell puller. I can’t recall where I got it, maybe ebay but it was roughly $150-160 and shipped directly from India.
Worked great for me, if I had to do it frequently I’d get the Yukon.
Has anyone ever drilled through the bearing race to remove a carrier bearing if you don't have a puller? I've done that with the outer bearing by drilling its retainer several times and it works great, so long as you stop the drill at the right time.
For those I always used a cut off wheel on my die grinder then a chisel and hammer to break and remove them.
Well dang, why have I been under the delusion I needed a carrier bearing remover all these years then?
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