I apparently picked a good TJ

CybrSlydr

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With my approaching relocation to Wyoming (almost 1500miles), I decided to get the Jeep inspected by a local mechanic before I take it over to make sure that I'm good to go and she won't blow up on my on the side of the road.

Got a really good report! Frame is excellent with no rust issues, exhaust is in excellent shape with no rust issues, suspension is in great shape with nothing needing done on it as well, U-joints in excellent shape.

The guy wrote up an estimate for me that performed a lot of services and maintenance that I wanted done.

- Sway bar link ends broken (explains the clunk I've been hearing)
- Valve cover gasket replacement (said it was shooting out the back - lol)
- Fix up the lighting and cap off/stow bare electrical wiring from the fog lights that fell off
- Brake fluid flush (all other fluids have been done less than 5k ago)
- Replace radiator and put in new fluids
- Replace all spark plugs (went with double platinum)
- Replace serpentine and idler bits
- Grease all fittings
- Rear main seal is a CAT 1 leak (no need to really worry about it at this time)
- Restore the air filter to OEM with OEM air filter box (came to me with one of those conical K&Ns)
- Clean throttle body
- Oil change

Parts and labor (I already purchased the radiator) we're looking at a little over $1200 total. About double what I'd hoped it'd be, but peace of mind knowing the bones of the Jeep are in great condition for a 14 year old vehicle.

He asked if the Jeep sat a lot and I told him it was pretty much a daily driver and that I bought it from Texas. He chuckled and said that explained it. He had another 06 Jeep in for service for another guy and his was just trashed with rust. Guy saw mine and was amazed how clean the bones were.
 
That’s awesome! But $1200 to install a radiator and do a bit of basic maintenance seems a bit high.

A novice could do that valve cover gasket in an hour or 2.
 
Usually this is the sort of stuff you have inspected pre-purchase, but in your case it sounds like you got lucky and just happened to pick a good one, like you said.

Get all that work done and you should be looking at a healthy 4.0 and a long life.

Just don't drive it in those nasty Ohio winters, or your frame won't be rust free for long!
 
Usually this is the sort of stuff you have inspected pre-purchase, but in your case it sounds like you got lucky and just happened to pick a good one, like you said.

Get all that work done and you should be looking at a healthy 4.0 and a long life.

Just don't drive it in those nasty Ohio winters, or your frame won't be rust free for long!

Here's the quote.

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His labor seems fair at shop prices. But a fel pro valve cover gasket is about $25 and spark plugs should be $30 max for the iridium. The spark plugs take about 10 minutes to replace.
 
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His labor seems fair at shop prices. But a fel pro valve cover gasket is about $25 and spark plugs should be $30 max for the iridium. The spark plugs take about 10 minutes to replace.

That was one thing I thought - because I thought when I looked at those plugs in the plug thread (iridium) they were like... $10/ea.
 
But you are correct, Chris - I did have a PPI done on this and it appears the two years it's been in Ohio hasn't harmed it much as the PPI came back saying pretty much the same thing.
 
He’s running the old trick of showing a list price at 250% mark-up, and then cutting it to 100% for his OTD price.
I ran the parts counter for an 18 bay shop when I was a pup. We did a 28% mark-up on outside purchases.
 
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Nice work, that's not a hateful estimate at all for the job. If it's within your budget and you didn't want to mess with doing it yourself then you got a fair deal and peace of mind. Good luck on the move!
 
He’s running the old trick of showing a list price at 250% mark-up, and then cutting it to 100% for his OTD price.
I ran the parts counter for an 18 bay shop when I was a pup. We did a 28% mark-up on outside purchases.
The parts are still overpriced
 
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Sourcing the correct part is a job, aka work, aka labor. Labor costs money.

In fact if you think aboot it, labor cost assessment is the only cost of a final product.
 
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Sourcing the correct part is a job, aka work, aka labor. Labor costs money.

In fact if you think aboot it, labor cost assessment is the only cost of a final product.

And that’s why the parts are marked up....to pay for the phone call to order them.
 
And that’s why the parts are marked up....to pay for the phone call to order them.
And what about when that part fails and the shop has to replace it at no cost to the customer? The shop will most likely get the part replaced but will have to eat the labour.
 
listen, standard parts at auto shops is list + 50% ...pay to play. They have overhead, insurance, salary, professional schooling to keep up with current mechanics. When I can't do something I pay the price to my trusted guy.
Let's NOT forget a lift & the tools !!!
 
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No disrespect at all, but the op doesn’t do his own wrenching is my take -and that’s fine . I make my living working on people’s homes doing what they don’t want to or can’t .

He’s also at the shop because he knows this thing needs freshened up and needs it off his list before the move, with someone he knows and trusts rather than finding a new shop in a new town.

The most expensive option is try to help him beat the system , and end up with off brand parts , a cross threaded plug , and other issues 750 miles down the highway because someone did it who could care less .

it would take an individual from a day to a week rounding up all the parts , of order online and have to return all the ones that came in wrong ,etc.

Hire a pro , run it some before the trip and make sure all’s good, and record the mileage on all this stuff for next time.
Good luck , your forum fees will be 20 percent higher in Wyoming, we charge more for rural areas.
 
Ask him what radiator he intends to put in there. It's likely something aftermarket. TJs don't do well with aftermarket radiators. Go original Mopar, even if it costs more.
 
Aftermarket oem replicas seem to do fine, just I wouldn't expect them to last as long as a mopar rad.

Aftermarket replica ~ 3 to 5 years

Mopar ~ 10 to 12 years