Are c-clip eliminators a gimmick for Ford 8.8 axles?

I would look at an F-150 housing and convert it to late big bearing 9" ends. You should be able to get around 65" wms if you want and centered pinion. Changing the ends allows the use of Explorer brakes and 9" axles and bearings. Those brakes are cheap pretty easy to find at pull a parts around me. There is a spacer ring that has to go on the axle between the retainer plate and bearing. Currie sells them, but they are $35. They can be had for 1/3 that price if you shop around. When I did one for a classic Mustang, there was not much difference in price between eliminators vs 9" ends including cost of cutting and welding on ends. I had access to a rear end jig so 9" ends were actually cheaper.
 
I would look at an F-150 housing and convert it to late big bearing 9" ends. You should be able to get around 65" wms if you want and centered pinion. Changing the ends allows the use of Explorer brakes and 9" axles and bearings. Those brakes are cheap pretty easy to find at pull a parts around me. There is a spacer ring that has to go on the axle between the retainer plate and bearing. Currie sells them, but they are $35. They can be had for 1/3 that price if you shop around. When I did one for a classic Mustang, there was not much difference in price between eliminators vs 9" ends including cost of cutting and welding on ends. I had access to a rear end jig so 9" ends were actually cheaper.
Where are the high strength 4340 axles in that equation? That and the eliminator he is using does use the set 20 bearings you refer to already. I don't disagree with doing it that way. I would and could do it that way easily but I would be stuck on the shafts and I doubt many will cut and add housing ends when something like the Super 88 is nearly bolt on.
 
No doubt a kit would be easier. When I did my 8.8 I was told by Moser that the splines were the same. A 31 spline 9" axle will slide into an 8.8 and vice versa. It should be easy to find 9" axles of any length or material. Almost anyone on this site would just drop it off to get the ends changed. How much different are off road axles from street or drag race?
 
More directly, the c-clips themselves generally don't fail and neither do the shafts where the c-clips hold them inside the carrier. They're not the reason for c-clip eliminators which are as Blaine said are eliminated simply because they're no longer needed after installing bearings that are held in by a bearing retainer bracket at the end of the axle tube opening. Which is why the Super 35 kit doesn't eliminate the Dana 35's c-clips, they're not the problem with shaft breakages. The problem is the small diameter 27 spline carbon steel shafts, not the c-clips. The c-clip area is inside the carrier and protected from rotational stress by the carrier through which the shaft passes. The rotational stress is between the carrier and the outer hub bearing.
Hey are the outter Bearing and seal for the Ultimate 88 a much stronger part than the original outter bearing and seal inside the Ford 8.8 that came on the Explorer?
 
No doubt a kit would be easier. When I did my 8.8 I was told by Moser that the splines were the same. A 31 spline 9" axle will slide into an 8.8 and vice versa. It should be easy to find 9" axles of any length or material. Almost anyone on this site would just drop it off to get the ends changed. How much different are off road axles from street or drag race?
You and they are correct. They are basically a Ford 9" axle. I made several changes to the shaft when I did the one for Superior. I increased the transition from the back face of the flange to the first shoulder for the seal area. I didn't want anyone to bend the flange area.

I don't know the difference in housings. On one hand, I would think they would want them as light as possible and still be able to do the job. On the other hand, I don't know if that matters as much as being able to resist a hard launch.

I know I could call Moser and maybe a few other places and get an axle shaft or two made.
 
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Stronger is up for debate since it is not an apples to apples comparison.
So tell me then, whats the main purpose of the Super/Ultimate 88 kit. I know the axle are much stronger than the OME. Was that the MAIN reason, was to run chromemolly axles? and in order to do that the bearing had to be a different type? just getting it in my head here. sorry to be so inquisitive. Im just about to cut this axle tube to fit the 88 kit and I want to make sure i understand. thanks
 
So tell me then, whats the main purpose of the Super/Ultimate 88 kit. I know the axle are much stronger than the OME. Was that the MAIN reason, was to run chromemolly axles? and in order to do that the bearing had to be a different type? just getting it in my head here. sorry to be so inquisitive. Im just about to cut this axle tube to fit the 88 kit and I want to make sure i understand. thanks
C-CLIP ELIMINATION, .900" WIDER PER SIDE, 4340 AXLE SHAFTS.

That and I clearly explained why the kit was developed above.
 
Im going to have 4.88 gears installed and a locker. Im sure the place will not be interested in doing the ultimate 88 kit. So should I do the Ultimate 88 kit first before he does the new ring and pinion and locker ? I guess im asking about the seals is it ok to take the axles (after doing the ulitmate 88 kit) in and out since the seals will be attached to the shafts.
 
Im going to have 4.88 gears installed and a locker. Im sure the place will not be interested in doing the ultimate 88 kit. So should I do the Ultimate 88 kit first before he does the new ring and pinion and locker ? I guess im asking about the seals is it ok to take the axles (after doing the ulitmate 88 kit) in and out since the seals will be attached to the shafts.
Sure, it is very okay to do so. But, you will be one of the rare few that doesn't cut the seal skirt going back in. I can do it, most can't.
 
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Sure, it is very okay to do so. But, you will be one of the rare few that doesn't cut the seal skirt going back in. I can do it, most can't.
what makes the seal skirt more difficult going in a second time more than the first time? and is it difficult getting the axle out once the bearin and seal are pressed into the axle tube the first time?
 
what makes the seal skirt more difficult going in a second time more than the first time? and is it difficult getting the axle out once the bearin and seal are pressed into the axle tube the first time?
The skirt expands when you tighten down the retainer to seal the bore. It retains some of that shape and is slightly oversize going back in with very little margin for error. They are not difficult to remove. If they give the slightest hint of being stubborn, stick a prybar behind the flange and using the parking brake shoe as a fulcrum, give the handle a little pop and the axle will slide right out.
 
The skirt expands when you tighten down the retainer to seal the bore. It retains some of that shape and is slightly oversize going back in with very little margin for error. They are not difficult to remove. If they give the slightest hint of being stubborn, stick a prybar behind the flange and using the parking brake shoe as a fulcrum, give the handle a little pop and the axle will slide right out.
I might ask my mechanic to install the gears, locker and install kit except use the old outter seals and bearing and when I get it back home ill do the 88 kit. It has to be trailered anyway.
 
This is the part I was talking about where it says ( Keeps the hubs riding on the housing itself instead of just the four housing end bolts ).
This is a quote from FourWheeler article
"The Super 88 kit eliminates the C-clip design, upgrades to 31-spline 4340 chromoly axleshafts, and keeps the hubs riding on the housing itself instead of just the four housing end bolts".
sorry for the lack of knowledge but could you explain this to me . thanks
 
This is the part I was talking about where it says ( Keeps the hubs riding on the housing itself instead of just the four housing end bolts ).
This is a quote from FourWheeler article
"The Super 88 kit eliminates the C-clip design, upgrades to 31-spline 4340 chromoly axleshafts, and keeps the hubs riding on the housing itself instead of just the four housing end bolts".
sorry for the lack of knowledge but could you explain this to me . thanks
No idea what they are talking about. I think they are using magazine speak to say that the housing end that carries the bearing uses more than the 4 housing end bolts to carry the load since it has a close tolerance hole that is a press fit on the bearing snout.
 
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No idea what they are talking about. I think they are using magazine speak to say that the housing end that carries the bearing uses more than the 4 housing end bolts to carry the load since it has a close tolerance hole that is a press fit on the bearing snout.
Thank you !
 
mrblaine - instructions say to silicone the recess on the back side of the bearing seat, ( I got that ) I watched a video where a guy smeared a little silicone on the back of the dust cover where it would meet up against the bearing seat flange. Also he siliconed the front part of the bearing seat where the seal and bearing contact inside the bearing seat. im guessing to seal the seal ha.
Where all did you recommend silicone to go on the 88 kits.?
thanks
 
mrblaine - instructions say to silicone the recess on the back side of the bearing seat, ( I got that ) I watched a video where a guy smeared a little silicone on the back of the dust cover where it would meet up against the bearing seat flange. Also he siliconed the front part of the bearing seat where the seal and bearing contact inside the bearing seat. im guessing to seal the seal ha.
Where all did you recommend silicone to go on the 88 kits.?
thanks
The only area that needs RTV sealing is the snout the housing end interface. Once that is sealed, it is just like a typical big bearing Ford Set 20 application and the seal takes care of the rest.

Snout interface is define as that round part left after you cut the seal snout off. That is a press fit into the hole in the new housing end. Smear RTV around the clean round part that looks like a short tube that the housing end will press onto. Think of it like sex. The new housing end is her, the little short snout left is you, the RTV is the condom.