Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

[Wildman]

@Chris if you decide to buy one of these blasting cabinets talk to me before you assemble it. I have some tips. And the dust reclaimer does work fairly well. But it isn't a bolt in item for the 40lb cabinet.

 

[Chris]

@Chris if you decide to buy one of these blasting cabinets talk to me before you assemble it. I have some tips. And the dust reclaimer does work fairly well. But it isn't a bolt in item for the 40lb cabinet.

View attachment 161501

I imagine that's a nice thing to have, huh? I think about how often I would use one of those, and it starts to make sense. It makes cleaning stuff up so much easier.

 

[Wildman]

I imagine that's a nice thing to have, huh? I think about how often I would use one of those, and it starts to make sense. It makes cleaning stuff up so much easier.

Think about how much time you'd spend with a wire wheel and wire brush trying to clean something like this.

 

[Chris]

Think about how much time you'd spend with a wire wheel and wire brush trying to clean something like this.

My point exactly. Having used a wire wheel more times than I want to remember, this seems like the much less painful option.

 

[Mike_H]

Here is about 1 hour of bead blasting.

Before I blasted the spring pads.
View attachment 161498

Here is after. I think I need a little more abrasive media. But they are a lot better.

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Now I've got to primer them with weld thru paint. Then measure 3 times and tack once...
Then I can move on to figuring out my ride height and start measuring...
Lots and lots of numbers... makes my head hurt .

Maybe its your picture, but after an hour, I'd think they would have a MUCH more consistent surface finish. I have a small Trinco blaster and it gives me a nice, consistent finish...

as an example...

Here are the befores

Some motorhome parts ( I don't have before's of these)

I have 50# of media loaded and I run about 90-95 psi. I have monkeyed around with the pick up to make sure my suction tube is correct. My blaster cabinet is so small, the media will pile up on one side and I get inconsistent delivery. But those two buckets wouldn't have taken me more than a half hour. I also use coal slag on rusty or painted steel. It breaks down pretty quick but its aggressive and CHEAP. Gives a nice surface for paint to grab too and one its painted, you can't tell (I.e. the paint fills in the surface texture).

 

[Wildman]

Yahoooooo…...… Wide Open Design just called and my transmission shifter is in and they are shipping it today. That was one of the BIG things I needed to have before I could start putting things together with the Jeep. So now I have just about everything I need other than shocks. And I can't get them until I get the measurements to send to @pcoplin.

 

[Wildman]

Maybe its your picture, but after an hour, I'd think they would have a MUCH more consistent surface finish. I have a small Trinco blaster and it gives me a nice, consistent finish...

as an example...

View attachment 161510

View attachment 161511

Here are the befores

View attachment 161512

View attachment 161513

Some motorhome parts ( I don't have before's of these)

View attachment 161514

I have 50# of media loaded and I run about 90-95 psi. I have monkeyed around with the pick up to make sure my suction tube is correct. My blaster cabinet is so small, the media will pile up on one side and I get inconsistent delivery. But those two buckets wouldn't have taken me more than a half hour. I also use coal slag on rusty or painted steel. It breaks down pretty quick but its aggressive and CHEAP. Gives a nice surface for paint to grab too and one its painted, you can't tell (I.e. the paint fills in the surface texture).

I think I got to light of a media. This was my first time buying this stuff and I was worried about getting to cores of a media to use. I am going to blast my Warn 8274 when I rebuild it and was worried about it hurting those parts plus the aluminum engine parts. Now that I have use it a little I think I am going to try an different media.

Here are the spring pads painted.

 

[Wildman]

Things are starting to show up again. New high steer arms from TMR will be here Tuesday and the shifter will be here Thursday. Not that I'll be ready for most of these parts by then but I like having them here so I don't have to worry about WHEN they'll be showing up and having to wait for them.

 

[Wildman]

Than either build conservatively, plan on using limit straps, or you're going to have to come back to it.

It's easier if you pick a belly height, wheelbase, and tire size now and you can mock things in (clamps, jacks, string, tape), move toward roughing things in (clamps and little tacks), finalize placement (good tack welds), and then do a final burn on everything.

O.k. to try and answer your questions a little better here is what I've figured out from what I remember from 10 years ago.
Using numbers I think are correct.

Hub height - 17.5" ( but no weight on the tires so I took a little off)

Frame height - 23"

Tire size - 36"

WB - 98.5"

The only thing I don't have yet is the t- case numbers.

 

[Wildman]

Got it about as level as I possibly can.
23 1/8" frame height in the front and 23 1/4" in the rear.

This is my guess at this point where it'll be sitting with the AiRock working and at off-road height. I may be off by 1/2" to 1" higher.

 

[toximus]

Are you able to get the up travel you want at that frame height? If so, how much are you targeting?

From there (worrying about driveshaft angle later), since you want 12" shocks, do your airbags/coils have enough length to drop whatever is remaining of that 12"? If so, all you have left is figuring out if the driveshaft binds at that angle.

 

[jjvw]

Are you shooting for level, or do you want some rake? If you want some rake, set the jack stands up to reflect that.

 

[Wildman]

Are you able to get the up travel you want at that frame height? If so, how much are you targeting?

From there (worrying about driveshaft angle later), since you want 12" shocks, do your airbags/coils have enough length to drop whatever is remaining of that 12"? If so, all you have left is figuring out if the driveshaft binds at that angle.

I have not gotten that far yet as I was getting the transfer case setup and still need to move one rear jack stand to a better spot.
I got the transfer case in a approximate location based off my old engine & transmission. And then jacked it up as high as I could but if I remember right I had it clocked a little more than what it is at right now.
Driveline angle with a little built in for clocking is 15.5* and it will measure out to a 26 3/8" length. Which is pretty spot on as my old driveline is 21 3/8" in length.

Are you shooting for level, or do you want some rake? If you want some rake, set the jack stands up to reflect that.

I'm thinking if I can get it setting about like it is now this is where I would like it.

Had to come in and eat something as my blood sugar was getting low. Sucks getting old and getting all this GIFTS from family.

I'll have some travel numbers a little later.

Edit: I just want you all to know I wasn't ignoring all you have been saying. I really appreciate all the advise from @jjvw @toximus & @mrblaine. I'd FUCKED up a lot of these things with my last build due to not knowing better and thinking a bolt in kit should be just that. So I am trying to listen and learn as I go here.

 

[Wildman]

OK I had to move the transfer case out of the way so I don't have a full droop angle yet. I seem to remember a discussion where @mrblaine was talking about max angle for different size u-joints. I'm running 1350 DC on a flange if that makes a difference.

Front ride height is - 16"
Max up travel @ full bump - 11"
Max down travel @ full droop - 21"

Shock length
Ride height - 22-24" this is different as I have new towers that will allow 2" additional length.

Max up - 17-19"
Max down - 27-29"

Rear
Ride height - 13"
Max up - 7.5"
Max down - 21"

Shock (I have new shock towers for the rear)

Ride height - 21"
Max up - 16"
Max down - 29 1/2"

So it's not going to be balanced if I keep my current ride height.

10" of travel in the front and 13" in the rear.
Now I know I have not tried to fit a shock in the rear so before anyone says anything that was just what COULD be not what is.

And on the front I'm being conservative as ORO said I could take it to 10" between the upper and lower mounts.

So as long as my rear driveline would allow 12" of travel that is what I'm shooting for.

 

[Wildman]

Rear driveline angle at full droop is 25*.

With my shaft hooked up it looks like it will be ok but again I don't have the transfer case exactly where it'll sit.

 

[Wildman]

But I do have a issue

At full stuff the upper arm mounts are hitting the crossmember at 10" of up travel. So I may have to notch it to all the axle more up travel.

 

[mrblaine]

But I do have a issue

At full stuff the upper arm mounts are hitting the crossmember at 10" of up travel. So I may have to notch it to all the axle more up travel.

There are 6 crossmembers back there. Which one specifically are you referring to?

 

[Wildman]

There are 6 crossmembers back there. Which one specifically are you referring to?

The one that the fuel tank would bolt to.

 

[mrblaine]

The one that the fuel tank would bolt to.

Figure out why we cut the frame and move the wheel arch back yet?

 

[Wildman]

Figure out why we cut the frame and move the wheel arch back yet?

Yes I have.

What size tube do I need to do that? I don't know where I'd find it locally but I'll call around.