Alignment seems off after installing new pads and rotors

[mynamesrickgrimes]

Hey all,

Just completed install of new front pads & rotors.

On my test drive to bed in new pads, immediately noticed the alignment seems to be off, in that the car favors the right side of the road. Additionally, when I brake, very noticeable steer off to the right.

What could this be caused by?

Thanks all

 

[chino1969]

Hey all -

Just completed install of new front pads & rotors.

On my test drive to bed in new pads, immediately noticed the alignment seems to be off, in that the car favors the right side of the road. Additionally, when I brake, very noticeable steer off to the right.

What could this be caused by?

Thanks all

I had a similar problem after changing pads and rotors. In my case it turned out to be a sticking caliper. Ended up replacing both calipers. You might want to investigate this.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Hey all -

Just completed install of new front pads & rotors.

On my test drive to bed in new pads, immediately noticed the alignment seems to be off, in that the car favors the right side of the road. Additionally, when I brake, very noticeable steer off to the right.

What could this be caused by?

Thanks all

You flushed your brake fluid before changing them right?

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

You flushed your brake fluid before changing them right?

I did not! Did not bleed or flush at all.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I did not! Did not bleed or flush at all.

Did you have to push the cylinder back in to fit the new pads?

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

Yep, I sure did. Used a c-clamp with a piece of wood. Also noticed there was brake fluid on the ground as it overflowed out of the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Yep, I sure did. Used a c-clamp with a piece of wood. Also noticed there was brake fluid on the ground as it overflowed out of the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment.

If you don’t flush the fluid before doing new pads, and end up needing to use a clamp to push the piston back in, it can force a bunch of crap that’s in there and cause clogging. @mrblaine is the brake expert, maybe he can explain a way to fix it - or it could be much more simple than I think.

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

dang, that makes sense. so it would definitely be the right front caliper then. possibly a brake bleed/flush would correct?

 

[mrblaine]

dang, that makes sense. so it would definitely be the right front caliper then. possibly a brake bleed/flush would correct?

Yes, after you take the piston out of the caliper and clean all the crap out. Also for reference, the add line on the master cylinder reservoir is the point that a full master moves down to when the friction layers are due for replacement. Do not add fluid in between friction layer swaps since that will overflow the reservoir when the pistons are fully retracted. Brake fluid does not get consumed so don't add any after it is full with a FL swap.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Yes, after you take the piston out of the caliper and clean all the crap out. Also for reference, the add line on the master cylinder reservoir is the point that a full master moves down to when the friction layers are due for replacement. Do not add fluid in between friction layer swaps since that will overflow the reservoir when the pistons are fully retracted. Brake fluid does not get consumed so don't add any after it is full with a FL swap.

Thank you for teaching. I’ve always topped it off to full without knowing.

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

Thank you guys. I'll proceed as directed and follow up with you.

This is probably a dumb question, but assume I should bleed the rear brakes as well? Not just the front?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Thank you guys. I'll proceed as directed and follow up with you.

This is probably a dumb question, but assume I should bleed the rear brakes as well? Not just the front?

I like flushing frequently, might as well.

 

[qslim]

Thank you guys. I'll proceed as directed and follow up with you.

This is probably a dumb question, but assume I should bleed the rear brakes as well? Not just the front?

I always do a rule of thumb. I figure I'm already going through the pain in the ass of changing pads anyway, I might as well pop the drums off and do a full flush & bleed while I'm at it. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect back there & make sure the shoes are adjusted properly.

 

[Goatman]

Flushing the system means all four corners. Start from the rear right and work your way closer. Be sure all fluid is clean and clear.
When swapping in pads (or shoes) you do 1 at a time. Then pump the brakes slowly so that caliper (or wheel cylinder) can be pushed back out to the correct distance for that wheel's brake caliper. Then do the next one. This way you shouldn't overflow the master cylinder by pushing too much fluid back when opening the caliper. If the fluid is cruddy then flush it ALL out. By pushing the crud back in to the lines it gives the caliper a chance it will drag or even lock up.

 

[chino1969]

Flushing the system means all four corners. Start from the rear right and work your way closer. Be sure all fluid is clean and clear.
When swapping in pads (or shoes) you do 1 at a time. Then pump the brakes slowly so that caliper (or wheel cylinder) can be pushed back out to the correct distance for that wheel's brake caliper. Then do the next one. This way you shouldn't overflow the master cylinder by pushing too much fluid back when opening the caliper. If the fluid is cruddy then flush it ALL out. By pushing the crud back in to the lines it gives the caliper a chance it will drag or even lock up.

Always reading and learning. This may have been the reason one of my caliper pistons froze up after replacing pads and rotors. I did not flush the brake system prior to replacing. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Goatman]

I had 3 lock up and the 4th dragging after the dealer just shoved in pads without doing anything else. 3 locked up rotors with less than 30 miles on it after the pad install. Wouldn't think it possible before it happened.

 

[LONGJP2]

From my experience, a frozen caliper can pull towards the bad one when not on the brake; and pull the opposite way (hard) when applying the brake.

And they get real hot too.

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

UPDATE: bled all 4 corners today, no change vs. before. Still pulls to the right when braking.

ALSO: noticed this before, but after the brake/rotor job, the steering wheel sits a little bit to the right, when before it was perfectly centered. I had new tires put on and an alignment a couple months back.

What do you guys think? What would be the best course of action?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

UPDATE: bled all 4 corners today, no change vs. before. Still pulls to the right when braking.

ALSO: noticed this before, but after the brake/rotor job, the steering wheel sits a little bit to the right, when before it was perfectly centered. I had new tires put on and an alignment a couple months back.

What do you guys think? What would be the best course of action?

You’ve got to take the piston out of the caliper and clean it out.

 

[mynamesrickgrimes]

You’ve got to take the piston out of the caliper and clean it out.

How about the steering wheel naturally turned more towards the right? What would have caused that?