Black Magic Front Brake Swap (and rotors)

Zer0Log1c

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Joined
Apr 19, 2019
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15
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Huntsville AL
Hey guys, wanted to share my experience with the set of Black Magic pads I tossed on the front of my TJ.

Let me start by saying I'm very thankful I made the brake upgrade after last night's experience. I don't want to hear the sound of 33s locking up again...

The Story
Driving on my way to volleyball practice last night around 7:30 on a 4 lane road and coming up on a blind intersection around a bend in the road. I notice that a pickup is stopped in the right lane (my lane) as myself and a few other cars are approaching the truck and the intersection at around 40 mph. No turn signal, no hazards, just brake lights and sitting halfway into the intersection. So in an attempt to avoid having to come to a stop at a green light in flowing traffic, I switch over to the left lane and the car that wasn't far behind me followed suit. About the time that I'm 50 feet or so out from the intersection the truck decides it actually wanted to turn left and steadily started putzing across all 4 lanes of traffic to the left, clearly oblivious to the cars traveling towards them and closing ground fast. My right hand lays on the horn and right foot punches the brake pedal to the floor before I can blink. Immediately my 33s light up with a deep angry growl as they cut momentum as fast as they can. My TJ rocks backward after coming to a dead stop now in the middle of the intersection not 5 feet from the bed of the truck that is still crawling through the intersection. I then remember I had another SUV not very far behind me. Eyes dart up to the rearview and see the SUV switched back to the right lane, presumably when I locked my brakes, and was still slowing down as it moved slowly past me on the right.

The Review
It had definitely taken some adjustment in my driving to properly use these pads and keep them 'primed'. I was always the driver that would engine brake way back from the intersection as a light turned yellow and really only used my brakes to slow from 20 - 0 most days. That said, I have had to 'break-in' my pads a few times over the last few weeks as my driving style was adjusting. Let me say, there is a noticeable difference in stopping power when these pads are 'primed' and when they aren't and you recognize it as soon as you ask for anything more than light braking.

Installation was pretty simple. I bought a pad and rotor kit since my current rotors were starting to show a bit of wear and had a hint of warping to them. Not to mention I didn't know what brand they were or when they were put on as that work was done before I bought this Jeep. Flushing the brakes, solo, was the difficult bit and required some contortionist-level moves and a broom handle to get it done with little enough air in the lines to feel comfortable driving it (bled the brakes with a buddy the next day) to begin the break-in process that night.

Similar to my rotors, I have no idea what sort of pads I had installed. My old pads didn't leave me questioning if I was going to stop in time very often but they weren't very confidence-inspiring either. The Black Magic pads. Totally different story. While I didn't know if my old pad could lock up my 33s if I really needed them to, I know for a fact the new pads are capable of doing that with some bite to spare.

Now being about a month in, I can say that dust does build up a bit on the wheel but it doesn't take much to clean it up and honestly, it doesn't bother me much. It did take some time for the dust to build up to noticeable levels but since I've never been the type to clean my wheels very often it might take less time for someone that cleans everything up more frequently than I.

TL DR
Love the switch to Black Magic pads, they do produce more dust than most, but they will not leave you wishing for more stopping power
 
I've had two sets of Black Magic Brakes, both were on big brake kits. The first one was a Super 16 Vanco big brake kit, and the other one was a 17" Vanco big brake kit (which was overkill by all means).

Just like you, it took me some getting used to driving with these brakes, mostly because I drove just like you said you do, engaging the brakes from way, way back. Once I got used to driving with the Black Magic Brakes the way they are intended to be driven, it was night and day difference. Sure, I upgraded to the big brake kit at the same time, so I'm sure that's some of it, but I was also running much larger tires than stock.

There were a few instances where I really had to lockup the brakes and hit them hard to avoid hitting someone. Each time I did that, the big brake kit / BMB pads left me feeling very, very confident in the vehicles braking ability.

In fact, if you search, I did a very thorough review several years ago of my Vanco 16" big brake kit.

Basically what I am getting at is that my review almost parallels yours. I really like these things!
 
16" BBK installed this past weekend. Love them. I used to habe to stamd on my stock brakes and wpuld only slow the momentum of the 35's. Stopping was a mere suggesting to the 35's under the stock brakes.
 
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How, why do you have to change how you drive/brake? And what do you mean you have to prime the brakes?
 
The brakes require a break-in period. A series of hard braking in a certain amount of time to get the heat cycled thru them. I dont know all the technical language but that will help the pads and rotors contact better.

As for changing driving style, if you ride the brakes they develop layer that doesnt allow them to stop to their full potential. Keep it spirited and enthusiastic and they will work just fine. That doesnt mean to slam on them whenever you need to stop but brake harder than you usually would. Sometimes I find myself having to break them in again, though I am getting better at being aware of my stopping habits.
 
How, why do you have to change how you drive/brake?
Adding to the above, if you upgrade your brakes, the brake point is also pushed further forward, meaning if you stop like you did with the old brakes, you'd stop short of your intended distance. You see this a lot for example when people are in a track car for the first time, causing them to "coast" instead of going directly from brake to gas.
 
Adding to the above, if you upgrade your brakes, the brake point is also pushed further forward, meaning if you stop like you did with the old brakes, you'd stop short of your intended distance. You see this a lot for example when people are in a track car for the first time, causing them to "coast" instead of going directly from brake to gas.
I mention that to folks often. It is rare that they follow it though. If you will spend the first 5-800 miles trying to stop as fast as you can without lock up and start the stop at a distance that will put you on the line of the corner or light you are stopping for, you'll know when they are broken in when you quit having to relearn that distance. All done safely of course.
 
The brakes require a break-in period. A series of hard braking in a certain amount of time to get the heat cycled thru them. I dont know all the technical language but that will help the pads and rotors contact better.

As for changing driving style, if you ride the brakes they develop layer that doesnt allow them to stop to their full potential. Keep it spirited and enthusiastic and they will work just fine. That doesnt mean to slam on them whenever you need to stop but brake harder than you usually would. Sometimes I find myself having to break them in again, though I am getting better at being aware of my stopping habits.
We're just trying to get all the high points knocked down and then heat cycle the pads and rotors to bed the pads and season the rotors.
 
All new brakes require a brake-in period. I've never heard of having to re-brake-in or re-re-brake-in. On a road vehicle. On a track car is something different. So is the pad compound basically a race pad? Is that the same with the EBC and other "premium" pads? So after a good weekend in the woods you would have to reseat the rotor to pads again? Serious questions. Not being a shit to anyone.
 
All new brakes require a brake-in period. I've never heard of having to re-brake-in or re-re-brake-in. On a road vehicle. On a track car is something different. So is the pad compound basically a race pad? Is that the same with the EBC and other "premium" pads? So after a good weekend in the woods you would have to reseat the rotor to pads again? Serious questions. Not being a shit to anyone.

After a few years of running black magic, I did the break-in procedure again and noted a difference. I had not noticed the performance degrade until I did the break-in again. I did it a third time when I replaced my rotors. Black magic pads live up to their hype.
 
All new brakes require a brake-in period. I've never heard of having to re-brake-in or re-re-brake-in. On a road vehicle. On a track car is something different. So is the pad compound basically a race pad? Is that the same with the EBC and other "premium" pads? So after a good weekend in the woods you would have to reseat the rotor to pads again? Serious questions. Not being a shit to anyone.

They will only need to go thru an additional break in if you ride them like a grandma. My problem was I usually downshift to slow then the last little bit I gently used the brakes. Overtime they developed the layer that lost their potential (this was probably 8 months after install). Ive started braking much more aggressively during my stops and they have been working extremely well. A trail ride in between wont cause the issue.
 
All you need to do with Black Magic pads after they are properly bedded is brake with enthusiasm. Its only if you tend to brake like a limo driver that you may need to repeat the break-in cycle. Note, however, that even if you never do the pads will still stop your TJ as well or better than other available brands.

This isn't like multi-level marketing or Amsoil hype. Black Magic pads really do work as well as their reputation.

Signed, a former disbeliever.
 
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All new brakes require a brake-in period. I've never heard of having to re-brake-in or re-re-brake-in. On a road vehicle. On a track car is something different. So is the pad compound basically a race pad? Is that the same with the EBC and other "premium" pads? So after a good weekend in the woods you would have to reseat the rotor to pads again? Serious questions. Not being a shit to anyone.
The break in varies a bunch between all the pads out there. If you use my break in procedure with EBC pads, when you are done, take them off and throw them away because you just ruined them and you can't bring them back.

Generally a track pad won't have much if any bite until they get up to operating temperature and then you have to keep them there. That is not the same as "glazing" them over which is what we are fixing with the re-break in caused by long low energy coasting stops.

We had one gent in particular who was beyond stubborn about this. He installed a Super 16 kit and complained of low performance after initial break in. Went through all the trouble shooting conversations and finally got him to bring it to us. We pulled the tires, checked the bleed, it was good, took it for a drive. Immediately I could tell they weren't broken in. I broke them in and they were great. Took it back and had him drive while I observed. Long coasting stops at every stop. We chatted and I explained many times that they need to be used with some enthusiasm especially since he had opted to install a much larger kit than was warranted for his 33's. He explained that he liked to be "mr. overkill" when the choice was available. I explained that wasn't quite how it works with these and he was doing himself, his wallet, and his rig no favors with how he babied his brakes.

Sorry, that is the way I was taught by my father and that's how I'm going to do it. Alright, well, they are not going to respond well to that so try to do it a bit more enthusiastically. About a month goes by and I get the call again. He brings it out again, I go break them in again because they were terrible. Got them working great again, explain it all again, he leaves again. In the meantime I've got an ongoing discussion with him trying to make the rear brakes work. (they worked just fine, he didn't think so)

We work on it again, I break them in again and finally tell him I will trade him a smaller brake kit straight across for his and include installation. At least there might be a chance to keep them closer to being broken in if they had to work a little harder to stop the rig. Nope, declined.

The problem is folks simply do not believe that I know what I'm doing and want to do it better. He did not need a brake kit for his 33's. All he needed was pads and maybe rotors. At most the 15" kit would have been more than plenty. But, no, we have to jump past the 15, past the 16, and go right for the Super 16" kit which will lock up 37's on a heavy rig with no problem. The 17" kit will lock up 40's with a quickness.
 
Got it. Growing up farming I would watch the neighbors taking hay with a 75 hp tractor. I had the same hay rake and used our John Deere H (9 draw bar hp). He was constantly breaking tines and pivots in his rake because he would go close to 15 mph through the fields. Those rakes were designed for 4 1/2 to 5 mph. Same mentality. I was taught use the right tool for the job. He was taught to go get a bigger hammer.
 
The break in varies a bunch between all the pads out there. If you use my break in procedure with EBC pads, when you are done, take them off and throw them away because you just ruined them and you can't bring them back.

Generally a track pad won't have much if any bite until they get up to operating temperature and then you have to keep them there. That is not the same as "glazing" them over which is what we are fixing with the re-break in caused by long low energy coasting stops.

We had one gent in particular who was beyond stubborn about this. He installed a Super 16 kit and complained of low performance after initial break in. Went through all the trouble shooting conversations and finally got him to bring it to us. We pulled the tires, checked the bleed, it was good, took it for a drive. Immediately I could tell they weren't broken in. I broke them in and they were great. Took it back and had him drive while I observed. Long coasting stops at every stop. We chatted and I explained many times that they need to be used with some enthusiasm especially since he had opted to install a much larger kit than was warranted for his 33's. He explained that he liked to be "mr. overkill" when the choice was available. I explained that wasn't quite how it works with these and he was doing himself, his wallet, and his rig no favors with how he babied his brakes.

Sorry, that is the way I was taught by my father and that's how I'm going to do it. Alright, well, they are not going to respond well to that so try to do it a bit more enthusiastically. About a month goes by and I get the call again. He brings it out again, I go break them in again because they were terrible. Got them working great again, explain it all again, he leaves again. In the meantime I've got an ongoing discussion with him trying to make the rear brakes work. (they worked just fine, he didn't think so)

We work on it again, I break them in again and finally tell him I will trade him a smaller brake kit straight across for his and include installation. At least there might be a chance to keep them closer to being broken in if they had to work a little harder to stop the rig. Nope, declined.

The problem is folks simply do not believe that I know what I'm doing and want to do it better. He did not need a brake kit for his 33's. All he needed was pads and maybe rotors. At most the 15" kit would have been more than plenty. But, no, we have to jump past the 15, past the 16, and go right for the Super 16" kit which will lock up 37's on a heavy rig with no problem. The 17" kit will lock up 40's with a quickness.

I’ve used my Colorado trip to break my brakes in again since I have a hard time doing so in the city (hard to do a break in when people are always behind you).

Oh boy, I realized today what I was missing. No more screeching, no more standing on the pedal for barely any braking. I did a few 70 mph - 25 mph runs on a 5% grade today and it totally changed everything about how the Jeep stops. I barely tap the pedal and the Jeep brakes hard and smooth. It’s amazing just how much the break in matters.