Project Road Salt - A Michigan Jeep Build

[jhetcel23TJ]

My Goal: A Jeep that is specific for Michigan wheeling. Needs to drive on the highway, but still be capable offroad. Not going to be doing any serious rock crawling with this rig.

History: I picked up my first wrangler- 03 TJ Sport in 2015 and had no idea what I was looking for at the time. When I initially inspected it, the tub was in excellent shape and the frame appeared to have only surface rust, boy was I wrong. After 2 years of daily driving through the Michigan winters my frame rails in all 4 "bends" at the control arms were rotted out. Most of the nutserts for the center section had all broken free. My skid plate was welded onto my frame at one point... I know, not safe! Also, during the first 2 years I had it I installed a 3” zone lift, advanced adapters SYE kit, and tom woods rear driveshaft.

I parked it in the garage and slowly worked on it over the years. During this time I had a few life events (new job, new home, got married) that extended the project out longer than expected.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

I searched high and low for a replacement frame but ended up re-using the frame because I couldn’t find a clean one/ cheap enough one in the Midwest. So, I ended up going the safe-t-caps route. I removed the body off the frame to make this job easier and started cutting away. I cleaned the frame inside and out. Wire wheeled and ground the exterior of the frame to bare steel. I cut the sections for the safe-t-caps one at a time so I could clean up the surround areas on the inside of the frame. To clean it out I used a long steel cable attached to a drill with a small chain hooked on the end of the cable. I then proceeded to beat the hell out of this inside of the rails, it was quite effective.


Built something like this (stole picture from another thread)

I used a flexible air-line and a clog hog pressure washer attachment to clean out any loose debris from the chain whipping. I followed this thread: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-jeep-wrangler-tj-frame.3249/

I inspected using a endoscope camera, and repeating the chain and cleaning process multiple times to make sure I got everything. I sprayed degreaser, then 3 coats of east wood internal coating, and 2 qts of eastwoods anti-rust wax inside the frame rails. I wish I took more pictures while I was doing this.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

I applied 2 coats of POR 15 to both the frame exterior and the bottom side of the tub.

While the body was off and with the help with my old man, we took the time to replace: front/rear main seals, timing chain, radiator, water pump, ball joints, axle u joints, front drive shaft u joints, installed all new currie adjustable short arms, teraflex skid plates, F/R adjustable track bar, Rugged Ridge steering, 1” BL, and 1” MML, and some other items I am forgetting. I really regret what I bought for track bars and steering and wish I went with Currie for all 3…maybe in the future. I also wish I went with aluminum skid plates, but oh well.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

Re-assembled, added fluids, oil primed, added fresh gas and the 4.0 fired up instantly after sitting for over 2 years! Put a smile on my face.

For a Christmas gift to myself I had to replace the worn out 31” KO1 tires, and the ugly wheels the PO had installed. Got a good deal on some KO2’s 32x11.5 and 15 inch mammoth charcoal wheels.

Before installing new tires, I had a lot of steering wander. After replacing tire and wheels, and getting a full alignment 70% of my steering issues went away. But, I could turn my steering wheel 1/8 to a 1/4 turn until wheels started turning. After doing many steering tests and troubleshooting, determined that the ZF steering box was just too worn out even after adjusting it. So I convereted to the 97-02 steering box loosely following this write up: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-97-02-steering-gearbox-in-03-06-tj-lj.5703/. And installed a new mopar steering box, lower steering shaft, and hoses. After doing this I am 90% happy with my steering. It still wanders ever so slightly. I have a hunch it is to do with my rugged ridge steering I installed…but more investigation is needed. Maybe I can convince my wife that I need to buy the currie currectlync.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

Upcoming items I want to do:

Figure out my steering issue

Exhaust is rubbing slightly on oil pan skid plate – needs to be modified.

Front/ Rear bumpers – looking at the UCF front bumper, and aluminum winch plate. And JCR diy rear bumper.

Ride is a bit rough with the zone shocks, so want to upgrade to rancho RS500x shocks

Install a Derale tranny cooler to keep the 42rle cool

Fabricate a body mounted spare tire carrier to get the spare off the swing gate

 

[Squatch]

Another one saved! Good man!

Love the thread title, btw.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

Thanks Squatch! I could have easily scrapped it out, but whats the fun in that. Now to think of a name for the Jeep that incorporates rust

 

[Squatch]

Thanks Squatch! I could have easily scrapped it out, but whats the fun in that. Now to think of a name for the Jeep that incorporates rust

Hmmm...there's actually a thread or two somewhere on here about folks naming their TJs. I think the general consensus was that the things kind of name themselves. That is, something will present itself as a standout characteristic, and voila! You have the name. Either that, or your friends keep referring to it as "such and such", until the name finally sticks, and you start calling it that, yourself. But it's your rig, and you could call it "Bob", if you were so inclined!

 

[matkal]

Looks good! Nice welds!

 

[Mike_H]

That tub looks incredible, based on the condition of the frame! Did you do any repair on the tub?

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

That tub looks incredible, based on the condition of the frame! Did you do any repair on the tub?

Just a little bit of surface rust on the body mount locations, and the bottom of the windshield frame was gone. Other than that the main body was pristine.


Windshield frame - the bottom seal was bad and letting water under the frame. You can't really see this section with the dash, so I discovered it once I took the dash out.

Tacking in new bottom. Ground all welds flush and used body filler to smooth out the ends.

Had a body shop paint to match the DX8 black. Turned out good. Took the opportunity to replace the windshield frame hinge hardware to all stainless. And of course all new seals and glass.

 

[Mike_H]

Awesome. I'm in Michigan too...and am dealing with this...I've cleaned it up once, but the rust is deep in the seams so I think I may replace the tub at this point. I've also dealt with the windshield frame thing. I replaced mine with a frame from an older wrangler (97-02). There is something about the design changes in 03-06 windshields that cause them to rot there.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

Glad to see another Michigander. I live in Whitehall - so about a hour from you.

Your tub probably looks scary to the southern and west coast Jeepers but I've seen much worse. That tub looks salvageable, unless you can find a good replacement. If it were mine I would wire wheel it, spray por-15 metal prep, and paint with por-15 coating. I bet you could get many more years out of it.


You may want to look hard at that frame, can't really tell from the picture but you may have a weak spot - new frame or safe-t caps may be in your future.

 

[matkal]

I haven't gotten a real good look at parts of my tub but I'm wondering if I'm better off getting a new tub rather than try to repair mine because of the deep down rust in the seams. I'll might just fix the worst of it, center mount on the torque box and right rear corner and plan on a tub in a year or two.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

I haven't gotten a real good look at parts of my tub but I'm wondering if I'm better off getting a new tub rather than try to repair mine because of the deep down rust in the seams. I'll might just fix the worst of it, center mount on the torque box and right rear corner and plan on a tub in a year or two.

I see you are also in Michigan...a common theme here.

Safe T Cap also offers torque box replacements - https://www.autorust.com/product/full-length-floor-channel-subframe-set-wrangler-tj-97-06/

Otherwise tubs come up all the time on https://www.car-part.com/

 

[Mike_H]

Glad to see another Michigander. I live in Whitehall - so about a hour from you.

Your tub probably looks scary to the southern and west coast Jeepers but I've seen much worse. That tub looks salvageable, unless you can find a good replacement. If it were mine I would wire wheel it, spray por-15 metal prep, and paint with por-15 coating. I bet you could get many more years out of it.


You may want to look hard at that frame, can't really tell from the picture but you may have a weak spot - new frame or safe-t caps may be in your future.
View attachment 168375

I've been over the frame. Its flaky (was) but its in good shape. This pic is about two years old and I've cleaned up most of it. I do have one rotted spot by the rear bumper. I've bore scoped my frame and its pretty decent inside. Needs constant vigilance in Michigan though, even parking it for the winter.

Baseline 4x4 usually has Good tubs for about a grand. They are just over the border into Indiana.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

I've been over the frame. Its flaky (was) but its in good shape.

That's good! What do you use to clean/ protect your frame?

 

[Mike_H]

That's good! What do you use to clean/ protect your frame?

I used chassis saver up front, rust reformer and rustoleum Professional in the rear. The Chassis saver has worked much better and been more durable. I need to get back under her and redo the protection on the rear frame. I also make sure the frame is clean inside, all the time, but I've yet to put any type of protectant in there. Been lazy, I guess.

This is a year after I did all the work on the frame the first time. You can see the rust re-forming around the spring perch. I'm kinda planning an outboard in the near future, so I'm not super worried at this point. That will require me to remove the spring perch anyway, and I'll address what needs fixing then.

 

[jhetcel23TJ]

@Mike_H that's a nice looking jeep! I really like the tan soft top/black tub combo. I have used rust reformer on other projects and it works well.

I got one of these guns https://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-with-2-hoses-and-bottle.html and it works good to get inside the frame via any holes. You put fluid film, or any other coating in there. Its not a top of the line gun by any means, but it did what I needed to do.

Also after coating I installed some cap plugs like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6NQ2LQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I plugged the holes in each wheel well to avoid any mud/ water/ salt getting in there.

 

[Mike_H]

@Mike_H that's a nice looking jeep! I really like the tan soft top/black tub combo. I have used rust reformer on other projects and it works well.

I got one of these guns https://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-with-2-hoses-and-bottle.html and it works good to get inside the frame via any holes. You put fluid film, or any other coating in there. Its not a top of the line gun by any means, but it did what I needed to do.

Also after coating I installed some cap plugs like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6NQ2LQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I plugged the holes in each wheel well to avoid any mud/ water/ salt getting in there.

Thanks! That gun is slick. I might have to pick one of those up. I have a gallon of fluid film, but no way to apply it. Thought I'd be able to use my Latex spray gun (from Harbor Freight) but its WAY too thick for that.

I'm torn on blocking the holes. My opinion has always been to allow for free air movement vs trying to block anything from getting in. On one hand, you allow dirt, water, etc into the frame...but as long as it can dry, its not a huge issue. The other way...you block that stuff from getting in, but it might get in anyway. Leaves a false sense of security I guess. I know my frame is open to garbage, so at least once a year and after every wheeling trip, I get in there and clean the frame out.