no, without a speedo healer it will be the same as a stock speedo gear.
edit: wow i'm late to the party. now I'm caught up.
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Arizona Rock Crawler
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
edit: wow i'm late to the party. now I'm caught up.
I've done a fair bit more checking on this and near as I can tell the tolerance for the interference fit with very high quality stuff is 6 thou to 15 thou and 15 being on the very high side.
And to clarify that is tolerance when measuring the diameter on the actual knurls or just below them? ARPs website showed their measurement on the knurls but I remember you mentioning a measurement below them
Basically you want a light interference in the smooth section where the knurling isn't. Just enough to stabilize the stud so the knurls can do their job of not letting the stud spin. If the hole is larger than the smooth bits, you are relying on the knurl to center the stud and stabilize it in the hole.
Right so if my under the knurl measurement is only .013 bigger than the flange hole is that technically within tolerance even if the knurled section is .025 bigger?
Yes. The studs we are dealing with are not quite the same as a normal one with knurl right under the head. That style usually has a finer knurl. The un-knurled section on this style should be a light interference fit to stabilize the stud. The same is true for the shoulder that registers in the rotor hole. It should have a 0-3 thou fit.
Makes sense now. Sorry if I’m a little slow this is my first time dealing with wheel studs or hubs at all for that matter. Pretty cool to learn about all the fine details that go into just one component of a Jeep.
More update on the hub kit fiasco. Blaine sent me his spare hub and it’s different than the one I have.
The holes seem to be the same diameter but the flange is a different thicknessYukon must have changed it’s design recently. I have one on the way from Yukon now. Hopefully it matches the ones I got in the kit and I can just send Blaines back to him.
On the bright side the rotors are the same.
Still anxious to figure out the stud situation.
The holes seem to be the same diameter but the flange is a different thicknessYukon must have changed it’s design recently. I have one on the way from Yukon now. Hopefully it matches the ones I got in the kit and I can just send Blaines back to him.
On the bright side the rotors are the same.
Still anxious to figure out the stud situation.
To be fair half of this trouble was self inflicted but the other half has still been yukon
Well it seems my luck is turning, I’m going to California this weekend for work and turns out I’ll be staying 20 minutes from Blaines. Going to take my hubs with me so he can work his magic or tell me what I need to order.
@jodomcfrodo replacing the speed sensor worked. It’s been a week of the speedometer working perfect whereas it used to go down at least once every time I drove. Just message JBC and they will send you another sensor.
@jodomcfrodo replacing the speed sensor worked. It’s been a week of the speedometer working perfect whereas it used to go down at least once every time I drove. Just message JBC and they will send you another sensor.
well guys the day has finally come that I can press studs through these hubs.
I got really lucky and had to travel to California for work this weekend. I looked it up on google and wouldn’t you know it I was staying 10 minutes from @mrblaine . Took everything to him and he reamed the holes out to work with different studs. Can’t thank him enough for taking time out of his Saturday morning to help me out. I even got some black magic brake pads from him that I’ll install with the new rotors. I’ll probably have everything in by tomorrow and will update on the finished project!
I got really lucky and had to travel to California for work this weekend. I looked it up on google and wouldn’t you know it I was staying 10 minutes from @mrblaine . Took everything to him and he reamed the holes out to work with different studs. Can’t thank him enough for taking time out of his Saturday morning to help me out. I even got some black magic brake pads from him that I’ll install with the new rotors. I’ll probably have everything in by tomorrow and will update on the finished project!
These are actually incredibly easy to install once you get the correct wheel studs pressed in
Got everything installed and the verdict is... It’s amazing. I was a little worried about the increased track width in the front and how that would affect scrub radius but it’s barely noticeable visually and there was zero decrease in handling (I have 4” bs wheels so now a net 3.25” ish. In fact it feels way better because I was able to add in some caster and get back to 7*. If increased track width is something you’re worried about with the kit I wouldn’t worry about it. Here’s what 4” backspace 8” wide wheels on 12.5” wide tires looks like with the kit.
Now I just need to adjust the toe after adding in caster and put on new brake pads soon!
Now I just need to adjust the toe after adding in caster and put on new brake pads soon!
I can’t believe how much better @mrblaine ‘s BM brake pads are. Even during the first cycle of breaking them in they had more stopping power than my old ones. Pushing with the same force I used to locked them right up at 40 so I had to tone it down a little bit. My old pads would not lock up well at all. I’m excited to see how they feel throughout the week.
ranger101
TJ Addict
Yeah. He sells pads for factory calipers. They are different from the bbk
Give it 500 miles or so of break in. They just get better and better. Don't be shy coming in hot off a free way offramp. Just don't be unsafe about it. You'll have to re-learn how much pedal to put into it. And just wait to see how they are on the trail! Ever had to keep your foot on the brake waiting for someone in front of you to get over an obstacle? It's amazing how much less pressure you need to apply, and saves your leg for sure.
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