Help with skid plate options

[Rubisohoe]

I'm about to add a body lift for more clearance. While I'm at it, I would like to get my skids up higher.

Since the PO did all the work on the current skids, I'm at a loss for what I can do.

The skids on it now are 4 inches down from the frame. Is this the standard height for an 04 TJR or is this already tucked some? Seems really low to me as I drag it on just about everything.

Any opinions on what I can do with what I have to get more clearance. Preferably not anything that's going to cost over a grand. I'm okay with budget products and can do some fab work myself.

 

[Nick21]

Get a Savvy skid

 

[Apparition]

Savvy UA with Savvy BL, Savvy cable shifter and Savvy MML blocks. Enjoy

 

[Rubisohoe]

Savvy UA with Savvy BL, Savvy cable shifter and Savvy MML blocks. Enjoy

That would be lovely, but all this would run me about $1,500.

I know savvy makes good stuff and I'm going to buy their body lift. I just can't justify spending that much on the rest.

As a tool nut, I do have to keep myself in check as festool and snap on are great and I own some of both, but we all know most things can be done with mid grade tools or even harbor freight gets the job done.

 

[Apparition]

That would be lovely, but all this would run me about $1,500.

I know savvy makes good stuff and I'm going to buy their body lift. I just can't justify spending that much on the rest.

As a tool nut, I do have to keep myself in check as festool and snap on are great and I own some of both, but we all know most things can be done with mid grade tools or even harbor freight gets the job done.

Skid plate, BL, ML and shifter isn’t $1500 and find the coupon code to offset shipping.

Add gas tank skid and oil pan skid later.

 

[pagrey]

4" is about stock. Barnes makes a bolt on that is just under about 3 1/2" deep for $225 and several others that you can use to build yourself for around $200. Great option if you are on a budget.

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ--LJ-Skid-Plates_c_145.html
Under Cover Fabworks makes some good stuff too but it isn't exactly a budget option anymore in my opinion although for the engine skid it is probably fine.

 

[Rubisohoe]

Skid plate, BL, ML and shifter isn’t $1500 and find the coupon code to offset shipping.

Add gas tank skid and oil pan skid later.

$1,570 with the trans skid $1,237 without..

I don't have a coupon code.

 

[Apparition]

$1,570 with the trans skid $1,237 without..

I don't have a coupon code.

$678 - 04 skid
$79 - ML
$135 - BL
$170 - shifter

$1063

I’ll have to search for the code

 

[Apparition]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/does-savvy-offer-a-discount-to-forum-members.24070/

 

[Rubisohoe]

4" is about stock. Barnes makes a bolt on that is just under about 3 1/2" deep for $225 and several others that you can use to build yourself for around $200. Great option if you are on a budget.

https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ--LJ-Skid-Plates_c_145.html
Under Cover Fabworks makes some good stuff too but it isn't exactly a budget option anymore in my opinion although for the engine skid it is probably fine.

That's looks like a excellent option. I wish they offered the 2" drop skid the same as their 3". Drilling out 1/4" steel can be a pita.

Will definitely give it further thought, thanks..

 

[mrblaine]

I'm about to add a body lift for more clearance. While I'm at it, I would like to get my skids up higher.

Since the PO did all the work on the current skids, I'm at a loss for what I can do.

The skids on it now are 4 inches down from the frame. Is this the standard height for an 04 TJR or is this already tucked some? Seems really low to me as I drag it on just about everything.

Any opinions on what I can do with what I have to get more clearance. Preferably not anything that's going to cost over a grand. I'm okay with budget products and can do some fab work myself.

View attachment 179513

View attachment 179514

Take that skid and slice the sides that go up to the frame horizontally right in the middle. Overlap them by the amount you can do the raised skid and weld or bolt them back together. There may be a minor width issue that you should be able to resolve by moving the frame flange with the holes for bolts inward.

Easy, cheap, effective. Once that is done, snag an engine skid and bolt that on.

 

[pagrey]

If you can cut and weld your existing skid that might be an cheap solution. I don't think it would take too long even with a grinder to cut.

Support the engine and pull the skid. Cut off the wings and then bolt them on to the frame. Slide the bottom piece on top of the wings raised up and carefully slide the wings in and out to get the raised height where you want it then tack weld them together. Pull the skid and weld in and out. Might get you close, might just destroy the skid. Fun either way. I don't know how much fabrication you are willing or can do. Also the welds have to be decent.

Blaine beat me to it, figures.

 

[mrblaine]

That's looks like a excellent option. I wish they offered the 2" drop skid the same as their 3". Drilling out 1/4" steel can be a pita.

Will definitely give it further thought, thanks..

Drilling 1/4" is a cake walk. Get some good non import drill bits. Get a good drill motor and your floor jack. Set the end of the drill on the jack with the bit lightly turning in the center punch, slowly jack the bit through the metal. Takes a small bit of practice but we use that method to drill most any vertical hole under the rig.

 

[pagrey]

How would you do the slots? That's the part I have difficulty with.

(without a plasma cutter or other nice tool like that)

 

[Rubisohoe]

Take that skid and slice the sides that go up to the frame horizontally right in the middle. Overlap them by the amount you can do the raised skid and weld or bolt them back together. There may be a minor width issue that you should be able to resolve by moving the frame flange with the holes for bolts inward.

Easy, cheap, effective. Once that is done, snag an engine skid and bolt that on.

Yes! I didn't think of over lapping a cut like that. For me, this would be easier than drilling out all the holes on a new skid.

It just so happens I have a stack of cutting wheels and flapper discs that I could burn up on a project like this.

 

[mrblaine]

How would you do the slots? That's the part I have difficulty with.

(without a plasma cutter or other nice tool like that)

Hard to tell at this point but they may not need that much. Worst case is to get some hardened grade 8 washers to use on the bolts and then take a cut off disc and continue the slotted hole all the way to the outside so it is just a single ended slot.

 

[B00mb00m]

How would you do the slots? That's the part I have difficulty with.

(without a plasma cutter or other nice tool like that)

I had to slot my UCF skid bolt holes and used a 1/4" burr bit on a m18 Dremel style tool.

 

[B00mb00m]

Do yourself a favor and make your own transmission xmember. It is so useful to be able to drop the skid without supporting drivetrain.

 

[toximus]

One thing to keep in mind is that you're likely going to have to rework your exhaust.

If you don't already have an SYE (or Rubicon) you're going to need one along with a new driveshaft.

 

[Rubisohoe]

Do yourself a favor and make your own transmission xmember. It is so useful to be able to drop the skid without supporting drivetrain.

I'll definitely have to look into that. I avoid maintenance because it's a pain getting around these skids.