JK axle swap for TJ

pcoplin said:
What steering are you guys using? I'm thinking of ordering Synergy and modifying as needed. Custom full-length track bar. Never have messed with JK axles except lockers and regear.
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steering gets tricky. deviate from the OE TRE's and it can get into the rims. not sure about the synergy TR but if it doesn't curl around like OE at the TRE's it's likely not gonna fit an OE rim, but i'm not positive here

i run 1 ton offset TRE's and a 1.5 aluminum TR bar. the drag is 1.5 DOM mounted OTK.
i changed my pitman arm, the TJ arm leaves room at the knuckle for more turn travel so i tried to get some of it.
i moved the TB connection out to the C, this presents it's own special problems as well (there is no out of the box TB made for this).
when everything compresses the TB comes up parallel with my DL and has about 1/8" clearance room. then the diff cover comes up tight to the TB it with 1/8" room. it's as far forward as my linkage set will allow.

if you start dickin with OTK, depending on the amount of up travel you can generate you could have to notch the pass side frame some to get full movement.
 
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Anyone use Savvy's link trusses for JK axles yet? Wondering if they are close enough to be able to modify.
 
pcoplin said:
Anyone use Savvy's link trusses for JK axles yet? Wondering if they are close enough to be able to modify.
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Yes if you scroll through my thread, I used the Savvy midarm truss on the front, had to cut off the edge pieces to pick it up. I went with coilovers and that allowed me to run the full length track bar. I highly recommend this versus using the arctec kit.

I also saw a guy on the FB "Jeeps with JK axles" page do a fairly elegent solution and actually moved the spring mounts outboard on the frame side to match the JK width.

Reasons why i chose a JK axle was I wanted something wider than stock with bigger brakes and high pinion. I got the Ultimate Dana 44 for 3k brand new with stock JK locker and gears and chromoly shafts. I pieced together oem knuckles and brakes for super cheap. In round 2, I've upgraded both OEM knuckles ($550 Reids) and I now have JL brakes that should bolt on also, and am thinking about RCV's. The integration / uptravel is definitely easier to work with versus Dana60's but you give up a lot as far as durability. I've talked to a lot of people who beat on their JK44's, especially a Currie or Dynatrac housing but they are not bulletproof by any means. If I was to do it again, I'd probably do a 44, but it would not be a Spicer it would be a Currie 44. For me highway driving on a 4.0 makes me not really want Dana 60 weight but I haven't driven one to tell if its really much worse or not.
 
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pcoplin said:
Anyone use Savvy's link trusses for JK axles yet? Wondering if they are close enough to be able to modify.
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if toximus got them over his 60's, with minor tweeks. a jk 44 should be fine i'd imagine.
edit: now that i think of it more, minor might be quite accurate, i'd have to go back and look. i read to much stuff.
 
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Not sure which he used, but I believe Savvy does make Dana 60 specific trusses I think you can choose when you buy the kit. I know the Rockjock60 front has a totally different setup and doesn't need a truss to mount on top, so maybe not applicable.
 
B00mb00m said:
Not sure which he used, but I believe Savvy does make Dana 60 specific trusses I think you can choose when you buy the kit. I know the Rockjock60 front has a totally different setup and doesn't need a truss to mount on top, so maybe not applicable.
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i totally misspoke i'm thinking of another instance i cannot pinpoint. i went to toxi's thread and his axles came with small trusses but he did alter the rear the get some space for the upper links.

i got a huge bridge over my rear Jk, it's gonna need whacked of and replaced with something much smaller.
 
B00mb00m said:
There is one other truss comparable to the Savvy (but not as good as savvy) that is setup for 3-link that I found, the Clayton JK truss CLY1108102. Only $100 also which is nice.
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not sure about that, the Savvy truss has a shallow beam and does not connect flat into the top of the pumpkin section. i had originally carrier mine out the same as the Clayton (from the top of the pumpkin section), but quickly realized it got into the oil pan and it needed correcting.
 
Honestly i'm having trouble deciphering your post. Either way, I'm not trying to turn this into a truss discussion, but Savvy front truss does have tie in to the pumpkin, however i was not able to get that to work on the JK pumpkin so I didnt tie it in, but others may be able to. I do not hit my oil pan with the truss but thats all a part of the rest of your build and part of why a JK swap isn't a bolt-in affair.
 
the way they intersect the tube brace into the pumpkin section.
the Clayton run straight off the top.
the Savvy appears to be lower, intersecting the pumpkin section at a shallower angle.

my 1st truss was similar to how the Clayton looks, but i had to change it to how the Savvy appears. but depending on up travel it may not be an issue.

clayton truss.PNG


savvy truss.PNG
 
They made it about as simple as can be. They didn't chase or even show checking up-travel. It'll probably work. 👍
 
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B00mb00m said:
Yes if you scroll through my thread, I used the Savvy midarm truss on the front, had to cut off the edge pieces to pick it up. I went with coilovers and that allowed me to run the full length track bar. I highly recommend this versus using the arctec kit.

I also saw a guy on the FB "Jeeps with JK axles" page do a fairly elegent solution and actually moved the spring mounts outboard on the frame side to match the JK width.

Reasons why i chose a JK axle was I wanted something wider than stock with bigger brakes and high pinion. I got the Ultimate Dana 44 for 3k brand new with stock JK locker and gears and chromoly shafts. I pieced together oem knuckles and brakes for super cheap. In round 2, I've upgraded both OEM knuckles ($550 Reids) and I now have JL brakes that should bolt on also, and am thinking about RCV's. The integration / uptravel is definitely easier to work with versus Dana60's but you give up a lot as far as durability. I've talked to a lot of people who beat on their JK44's, especially a Currie or Dynatrac housing but they are not bulletproof by any means. If I was to do it again, I'd probably do a 44, but it would not be a Spicer it would be a Currie 44. For me highway driving on a 4.0 makes me not really want Dana 60 weight but I haven't driven one to tell if its really much worse or not.
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I know this is old, but did you ever get around to getting those JL brakes put on? Do they fit?
 
someguysjeep said:
the way they intersect the tube brace into the pumpkin section.
the Clayton run straight off the top.
the Savvy appears to be lower, intersecting the pumpkin section at a shallower angle.

my 1st truss was similar to how the Clayton looks, but i had to change it to how the Savvy appears. but depending on up travel it may not be an issue.

View attachment 150066

View attachment 150067
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I just noticed this thread. I'm in the process of building a front JK Dana 44 and I have the Clayton Dana 44 truss pictured above. After laying out the TJ coil perch locations on the front axle, I can tell you you'll be chopping up that truss or raising the coil perches to make it work the way it is. The truss is wider and is intended for the JK axle in a JK. All this, or you can modify the coil buckets at the frame. See my pictures below.

20201103_174245_resized_1.jpg


20201103_174303_resized_1.jpg
 
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fixmysix said:
I know this is old, but did you ever get around to getting those JL brakes put on? Do they fit?
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Yessir. The bolt right up and you'll need jl rotors. I flipped the rear to the front of the axle. The JL caliper hangs down quite low if not..
 
sierradmax said:
I just noticed this thread. I'm in the process of building a front JK Dana 44 and I have the Clayton Dana 44 truss pictured above. After laying out the TJ coil perch locations on the front axle, I can tell you you'll be chopping up that truss or raising the coil perches to make it work the way it is. The truss is wider and is intended for the JK axle in a JK. All this, or you can modify the coil buckets at the frame. See my pictures below.

View attachment 210868

View attachment 210869
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You can just basically make new legs and put them where you want can't you? That's what I did for the TJ savvy truss. I'm a big fan of the savvy truss, super low profile and great support.
 
B00mb00m said:
You can just basically make new legs and put them where you want can't you? That's what I did for the TJ savvy truss. I'm a big fan of the savvy truss, super low profile and great support.
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Yes. At this point in my front axle build, I'm questioning coils vs. coilovers. If I burn in the truss the way it is, I'm either committed to coilovers, coil bucket relocating, or doing the truss all over again.
 
sierradmax said:
Yes. At this point in my front axle build, I'm questioning coils vs. coilovers. If I burn in the truss the way it is, I'm either committed to coilovers, coil bucket relocating, or doing the truss all over again.
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If I can offer some advice from experience do whatever lets you only do it once. Maybe start with the rear while you ponder on the front.
 
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