This is why your dash speakers suck

[Goatman]

A small speaker will never perform as well as a larger speaker (of similar quality). That's just how it is. If you are wanting to increase your bass then get a subwoofer. The front can provide some ability to fill in the depth of sound, but little more. I'm not an audio expert, nor do I play one on TV. But the best way to get good audio in a is to design for it during the development process. A TJ, or even a P/U isn't going to deliver awesome results without ruining its primary purpose.
Stick some upgraded speakers, use an amp to push them more efficiently and be happy you can tell what song is playing over the hum of your M/T tires and leaking muffler. I didn't buy my TJ for its radio. I'd rather hear the hum of the tires and the smooth purr of a straight six. THAT is music to MY ears

 

[TheBoogieman]

A small speaker will never perform as well as a larger speaker (of similar quality). That's just how it is. If you are wanting to increase your bass then get a subwoofer. The front can provide some ability to fill in the depth of sound, but little more.

You are 100% correct.

 

[Lowcountryearl]

Whole lot of technical stuff going on here but in short, are you saying the pods are not worth putting in?

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

Anyone try something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MM4DJV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The idea being to help mid bass to not disappear in any void between speaker and the cabin. Good idea. Sound deadening and this alone and you will hear a good improvement.

 

[Vtx531]

I purchased and installed the Jeep premium speakers in my dash but they still suck.

I wonder if the factory 4x6 would sound better because this one is designed to go with the console subwoofer system which I don’t have.

 

[Goatman]

I had those 'premium' pod speakers. With the factory sub. Sub was completely blown so I replaced with a new sub and amp. The pods still sucked. And that is compared to 4×6 replacements with no baffling of any kind. Biggest difference was when I finally installed new overhead speakers and ran a cheap 4 channel amp. Then I finally got decent sound, but not necessarily from the front.

 

[suicideking]

I used to be into car audio back in the 80's and 90's. Just like Jeep parts, it really boils down to 'you get what you pay for'. If you're really concerned about sound, separates (no 2 speaker in one setups), crossovers, and amps are needed. That said, a Jeep with a soft top is the worst vehicle to try to make sound good. The hard top isn't even that much better.

 

[Goatman]

I doubt even a 'perfect' stereo setup would be worth the price in a TJ going over 30 mph. Lack of sound deadening and tire noise can defeat any system.

 

[skrelnik]

I doubt even a 'perfect' stereo setup would be worth the price in a TJ going over 30 mph. Lack of sound deadening and tire noise can defeat any system.

I will chime in and say it can be achieved. With my Banks exhaust and my super windy gr8tops hardtop, even at max speed of 70mph - 75mph, when I crank the tunes up they are crystal clear. I literally hear no road noise, wind noise, or any typical Jeep noises.

Again, that is when I crank it up to a volume of 27-28 out of 35 max.

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

I will chime in and say it can be achieved. With my Banks exhaust and my super windy gr8tops hardtop, even at max speed of 70mph - 75mph, when I crank the tunes up they are crystal clear. I literally hear no road noise, wind noise, or any typical Jeep noises.

Again, that is when I crank it up to a volume of 27-28 out of 35 max.

agreed. It takes an investment and some relinquishing of storage space (sub) and ingenuity but as skrenik says it’s possible. I have without doubt the best sounding system I’ve ever had ...and the overdraft to prove it in my TJ. Always drive no roof and 1/2 doors. ( Florida)

FYI my system comprises 3 amps driving 2 x 10” JL marine coax set into top of rear storage security compartment ( factory security box replaced by one made from mdf.) Free standing JL 10” sub in sealed box behind passenger seat down firing. 2 x 61/2 Hertz coax in In overhead speakers. Center consul sub swapped out for 10” kicker. 2 x JL 650 2 way component speakers in footwell pods. 2 x JL speakers in dash. 2x JL tweeters set in pillars at ear height. OEM RB1 headunit connected to JL DSP feeding amps.All speaker enclosures and panels treated with Dynomat.

 

[Vtx531]

agreed. It takes an investment and some relinquishing of storage space (sub) and ingenuity but as skrenik says it’s possible. I have without doubt the best sounding system I’ve ever had ...and the overdraft to prove it in my TJ. Always drive no roof and 1/2 doors. ( Florida)

FYI my system comprises 3 amps driving 2 x 10” JL marine coax set into top of rear storage security compartment ( factory security box replaced by one made from mdf.) Free standing JL 10” sub in sealed box behind passenger seat down firing. 2 x 61/2 Hertz coax in In overhead speakers. Center consul sub swapped out for 10” kicker. 2 x JL 650 2 way component speakers in footwell pods. 2 x JL speakers in dash. 2x JL tweeters set in pillars at ear height. OEM RB1 headunit connected to JL DSP feeding amps.All speaker enclosures and panels treated with Dynomat.

Where do you put all the amps and are there wires running all over the place??

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

Where do you put all the amps and are there wires running all over the place??

In the rear cargo space. Wires running down to front on each side under carpet. My aim was to be as stealthy as poss. Only the sub box really jumps out at you. OEM head unit help that too.

 

[Vtx531]

In the rear cargo space. Wires running down to front on each side under carpet. My aim was to be as stealthy as poss. On the sub box really jumps out at you. OEM head unit help that too.

Love that you kept the Oem head unit. If I ever upgrade mine, that is one of my requirements.

 

[suicideking]

Love that you kept the Oem head unit. If I ever upgrade mine, that is one of my requirements.

That's the first thing you should get rid of if you want it to sound good. It all starts with the head unit.

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

That's the first thing you should get rid of if you want it to sound good. It all starts with the head unit.

That’s a bit outdated now. A DSP takes the signal from the head unit , completely flattens it out and from there The DSP takes over and you have infinitely more tuning options than any head unit could produce. So for me in these days of DSP as they are now , it’s the last thing I’d change. ( unless I want gadgets / tricks eg. Phone mirror imaging etc...All good but that has nothing to do with sound quality. )

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

Love that you kept the Oem head unit. If I ever upgrade mine, that is one of my requirements.

Yep...these days DSP’s just need the signal from the head unit and that’s it. The sky’s the limit.

 

[SSTJ]

Interesting post, thanks! I haven't read the four pages worth of comments yet, but will plan on trying this out. The video was very helpful, although I do worry that the second half sounded a bit boxy/muffled. Still, if I'm going to be sound-deadening the rest of my Jeep with Noico, I may as well slap some around the speaker like you did and see for myself.

What about adding any material behind the speaker? I've read that pillow filling is good for this, and currently have some stuffed behind the speakers in my overhead sound bar, and also behind the front dash speakers. Should I leave it in there if I take this approach?

 

[suicideking]

That’s a bit outdated now. A DSP takes the signal from the head unit , completely flattens it out and from there The DSP takes over and you have infinitely more tuning options than any head unit could produce. So for me in these days of DSP as they are now , it’s the last thing I’d change. ( unless I want gadgets / tricks eg. Phone mirror imaging etc...All good but that has nothing to do with sound quality. )

You can use a DSP and it will definitely sound better. Though it won't come anywhere close to an aftermarket HU which is going to produce a clean signal. Instead of a crappy signal that has to be cleaned up. Again, priorities. If you must have that factory look, by all means. You're spending a lot of money on clean sound, but the initial sound (HU) is a mess.

You don't even have to get an expensive HU. A $200 Alpine would eliminate most of the headaches of the OEM HU. Especially considering the OEM HU is around 20 years old for most, definitely behind the times.

 

[skrelnik]

That’s a bit outdated now. A DSP takes the signal from the head unit , completely flattens it out and from there The DSP takes over and you have infinitely more tuning options than any head unit could produce. So for me in these days of DSP as they are now , it’s the last thing I’d change. ( unless I want gadgets / tricks eg. Phone mirror imaging etc...All good but that has nothing to do with sound quality. )

100% AGREED. Those days of the head unit's importance are all over. Frankly, you do not even need a head unit any more. Just an amplifier with dsp and built-in bluetooth receiver. I used to have a set-up using the OEM head unit and an amplifier. I sold it on the forums to someone in Florida.

 

[Vtx531]

I am thinking of getting a wiring harness extender (if they make it) and tap into that, or else a regular harness adapter and reverse harness adapter combined, to avoid splicing. Then add in a mini amp.

It seems like Alpine power pack used to be the only game in town but the price has almost doubled lately and there are other brands available now? Pretty sure that I need one with speaker level input ability to keep the stock HU.

I am totally unfamiliar with DSP so I’ll read up on that today.