Body lift removal saga (part 3)

[Jmgoodnight]

I’m just gonna turn this into a journal of sorts for anyone who might take their own adventure into removing a 3 inch body lift. It might save someone some time. So I got all the pucks off. The passenger side was quite difficult to get lined up. PO had done something to cause the tub to lean forward. I figured out if I slap some wood blocks under the rear tires I could get the wheels stopped up enough for the winch to work it’s magic. Got it lined up only to find that the middle frame bolt does not go in. Im guessing the threading was damaged from the leaning so I think I’m gonna have to tap it out but I am hoping once I get the rest on some Jeep angel will bless me. Got the drivers side down like a breeze.

The problem I’m having there is the transfer case linkage. I can for the life of me get the bar into the hole on the t case housing and into the tub bracket. I honestly gave up on it tonight and will try again tomorrow. Now I’m going at the fuel tank now that it has a fresh pump module in it just to get it out of the way. Already relocated the radiator and shroud. All that’s left is the steering but I’m sure some kind of hiccup will appear. If anyone has any tips on the t case shifter linkage that would be rad. I know most will say get the savvy cable but that is for a later date as I’ve already dropped a few hundred in the past couple days on it.

 

[AndyG]

I’m just gonna turn this into a journal of sorts for anyone who might take their own adventure into removing a 3 inch body lift. It might save someone some time. So I got all the pucks off. The passenger side was quite difficult to get lined up. PO had done something to cause the tub to lean forward. I figured out if I slap some wood blocks under the rear tires I could get the wheels stopped up enough for the winch to work it’s magic. Got it lined up only to find that the middle frame bolt does not go in. Im guessing the threading was damaged from the leaning so I think I’m gonna have to tap it out but I am hoping once I get the rest on some Jeep angel will bless me. Got the drivers side down like a breeze. The problem I’m having there is the transfer case linkage. I can for the life of me get the bar into the hole on the t case housing and into the tub bracket. I honestly gave up on it tonight and will try again tomorrow. Now I’m going at the fuel tank now that it has a fresh pump module in it just to get it out of the way. Already relocated the radiator and shroud. All that’s left is the steering but I’m sure some kind of hiccup will appear. If anyone has any tips on the t case shifter linkage that would be rad. I know most will say get the savvy cable but that is for a later date as I’ve already dropped a few hundred in the past couple days on it.

Ditch it and do a savvy transfer case shift cable. It's not that much money, and works flawlessly, at any lift height or lift configuration.

 

[Chris]

Ditch it and do a savvy transfer case shift cable. It's not that much money, and works flawlessly, at any lift height or lift configuration.

X2. I can't stress this enough.

Do yourself a favor and ditch that POS factory linkage. It's only going to give you problems.

The Savvy unit is a huge upgrade even on a bone-stock TJ.

 

[AndyG]

X2. I can't stress this enough.

Do yourself a favor and ditch that POS factory linkage. It's only going to give you problems.

The Savvy unit is a huge upgrade even on a bone-stock TJ.

You can shift into 4wd with 2 fingers, and it isn't vague...you know exactly where you are. If the TJ was made today..it would have a cable shifter. The JK's did.

The shifter dates back to the 40's, and it's an ineffecient transfer of power to move the actuator at the transfer case, it rides in plastic bushings , and not only baffles scientists, it scares small children.

 

[AndyG]

I'd like to see someone try to board a plane with one.

 

[Jmgoodnight]

Lmao alright you guys have convinced me. I’ll get one sent over and slap it on

 

[ATCKIP]

I've been following this post getting and finally got around to removing my 3 " lift this weekend. Lucky for me...my 04 is pretty clean with no rust underneath so all the bolts came right out. I decided it would be easiest to purchase a new 1.25 BL, so I would have all the correct hardware. I went around and loosened all the bolts, including the 2 over the tank....I did not drop the tank...... blocked the body on both sides. Then I went around and removed the 3" spacers replacing them with the 1.25....but putting the longer old bolts back in....The new kit bolts are too short. I slowly worked it down on both sides until I could get the shorter new bolts in. Lined right up!.
It appears my new kits steering block is the same, so luckily that job is already done. On first attempt I couldn't budge the bolts..Ugg!
I bought a Savvy cable shifter. That's today's project

 

[voodooridr]

Ditch it and do a savvy transfer case shift cable. It's not that much money, and works flawlessly, at any lift height or lift configuration.

I was up under mine having a look around yesterday, am I correct that the skid has to come off to do the Savvy cable?

 

[Viking Jeeper]

I was up under mine having a look around yesterday, am I correct that the skid has to come off to do the Savvy cable?

The skid does not have to come off but it makes it easier. If you have never removed the skid its time to do it and check/treat for rust.

 

[AndyG]

I was up under mine having a look around yesterday, am I correct that the skid has to come off to do the Savvy cable?

You can do it with it on, its just awkward.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I'm so glad I keep my my POS factory transfer case shifter clean and lubed. Shifts smooth in HI or LOW with no grinding. If it ever gets bad, I might try the cable. No need for it right now, but my Jeep is only 18 years old.

 

[ATCKIP]

What did you do with your fuel filler tube. Mine was cut in half and a short piece of pipe was spliced in. I had no luck trying to find a replacement today...of course it's a custom JEEP piece with different diameter ends. I guess I'll have to shorten the pipe and resplice

 

[Moglocker]

Ditch it and do a savvy transfer case shift cable. It's not that much money, and works flawlessly, at any lift height or lift configuration.

This 1000%!

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

What did you do with your fuel filler tube. Mine was cut in half and a short piece of pipe was spliced in. I had no luck trying to find a replacement today...of course it's a custom JEEP piece with different diameter ends. I guess I'll have to shorten the pipe and resplice

There's a GM filler tube in the link below that might work. It works with no body lift.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wrangler-tj-gas-overflow-fix.244/

 

[ATCKIP]

Ordered the GM filler neck and waiting for delivery. I couldn't wait to drive it, so I pieced together the filler neck to go get some gas. The tank was almost empty thinking I was going to drop the tank.
My first issue is the shifter boot is keeping it from shifting forward into 1 and third. The floor console was still loose so moving the boot out of the way allowed me to shift into first. I thought the MML caused issues shifting into 2&4th. I'll play with the floor console tomorrow

 

[ATCKIP]

Ok The 3" BL is gone replaced with a 1.25. My 33's are abit tight. It's got kinda of a Tonka Toy look
I'm having issues putting the console back on with the 1"MML I added also. But the swap from a 3" to a 1.25 was pretty straight forward and not really that difficult.
My fuel filler line was hacked so I replaced with the GM with the flapper tube
2" springs are next