What did you do to your TJ today?

About step #2. After you remove the oil seal, you then hit the only snap ring and one of the first lock rings.

Mine has a Harmonic Balancer so it was more like step 3 (Remove balancer, remove oil seal, then hit the snap ring (and a lock ring)). Without the Harmonic Balancer, it's more like step 2.

Assuming you don't count dropping the skid and removing the DS as steps. ;)

Edited: 'Couple beverages in' edit - needed to remove yoke ref. Confused the front DS and rear DS..... :LOL:
 
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Drove it to the UPS store to return an Amazon package.
and as I drove thought some more about upgrading to a super 35. Thinking a Dana 44 upgrade is overkill and more that I want to spend.

So I’m spending some time researching super 35 kits upgraded axles for the front 30 lockers gears and all that
 
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FarFire70 said:
About step #2. After you remove the oil seal, you then hit the only snap ring and one of the first lock rings.

Mine has a Harmonic Balancer so it was more like step 3 (Remove balancer, remove oil seal, then hit the snap ring (and a lock ring)). Without the Harmonic Balancer, it's more like step 2.

Assuming you don't count dropping the skid and removing the DS as steps. ;)

Edited: 'Couple beverages in' edit - needed to remove yoke ref. Confused the front DS and rear DS..... :LOL:
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BTW, the JB Conversion instructions didn't mention (or my reading skills are poor) removing the front yoke before getting into it and I went into this with only the instructions print out and a poor level of prep research on Youtube.... So I was putting the case back together to get tension enough to get off the front yoke before getting it opened up....

Learn from my lesson - remove front yoke before you start. lol
 
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In preparation for a new windshield frame, I loosened the 6screws holding the hinge to the w/s frame. With a combination of heat, beeswax and a hand impact I managed to get five out without breaking them. The head broke off one.

Made a deal with a local Jeep scrapper, $20 for a red early model cowl and one w/s torx screw and eight tailgate screws. 👍🏻👍🏻
 
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antwon412 said:
Drove it to the UPS store to return an Amazon package.
and as I drove thought some more about upgrading to a super 35. Thinking a Dana 44 upgrade is overkill and more that I want to spend.

So I’m spending some time researching super 35 kits upgraded axles for the front 30 lockers gears and all that
Click to expand...
revolution. research done.
 
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antwon412 said:
Drove it to the UPS store to return an Amazon package.
and as I drove thought some more about upgrading to a super 35. Thinking a Dana 44 upgrade is overkill and more that I want to spend.

So I’m spending some time researching super 35 kits upgraded axles for the front 30 lockers gears and all that
Click to expand...
2nd Revolution. You won't regret it!!
 
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FarFire70 said:
BTW, the JB Conversion instructions didn't mention (or my reading skills are poor) removing the front yoke before getting into it and I went into this with only the instructions print out and a poor level of prep research on Youtube.... So I was putting the case back together to get tension enough to get off the front yoke before getting it opened up....

Learn from my lesson - remove front yoke before you start. lol
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Yeah I saw that in some of the videos. It requires quite a large socket if I recall correctly.
 
Midtenn said:
Yeah I saw that in some of the videos. It requires quite a large socket if I recall correctly.
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1 1/8" - if memory serves me right. I had the 1 1/4" on the floor too so do your research.

Both are/were in the HF 1/2" impact set (great buy!) so better to go that way than a single socket pickup! Set in metric and SAE have served me well.

I have both the 'shiny' outside finish and the 'rough' outer finish that I believe is a difference between the sets being made in Vietnam or Taiwan. Some swear the quality matters between the two and only buy a set from one country (can't remember which one). I've hit both sets hard on the impact and haven't had a failure yet (knock on wood)). For the home mechanic - they're a great set!
 
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After months of debating spending for the Savvy or Maxbilt tail lights, I decided to go with the Quadratec LED set. Price was more to my liking and it’s plug and play. Much much brighter than OEM.

7711838A-C2D9-4616-A0B2-4E246BFCA9A4.jpeg


E5279A58-C100-466D-92A5-89E4E4523E1B.jpeg
 
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Hopper said:
2nd Revolution. You won't regret it!!
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Yeah that’s what I was planning on.
just trying to make sure I get everything I need. I’ve never done gearing some going to have to take it somewhere which means most likely I’ll just buy all the parts through them.

Unless someone a little bit north of Sacramento knows how to install gears and wants to lend a hand!
 
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FarFire70 said:
Any flasher/turn signal relay change out?
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Yes. But the Quadratec set comes with it which was nice.

voodooridr said:
got notification that mine had finally shipped, should be here next week
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Same. It was just restocked the day I ordered it. It was out of stock for a long time. Maybe 4-5 months it seems. They said they were waiting for the relay to be in stock.
 
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FarFire70 said:
1 1/8" - if memory serves me right. I had the 1 1/4" on the floor too so do your research.

Both are/were in the HF 1/2" impact set (great buy!) so better to go that way than a single socket pickup! Set in metric and SAE have served me well.

I have both the 'shiny' outside finish and the 'rough' outer finish that I believe is a difference between the sets being made in Vietnam or Taiwan. Some swear the quality matters between the two and only buy a set from one country (can't remember which one). I've hit both sets hard on the impact and haven't had a failure yet (knock on wood)). For the home mechanic - they're a great set!
Click to expand...
Was just in the garage and confirmed its 1 1/8" for front yoke nut.
 
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Picked up front drive shaft after it was straightened, balanced, and u joints replaced. Reinstalled it this evening. About 2/3 of my vibrations have been eliminated.
 
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Only my highest setting on my Fan blower is working. So I replaced the Motor resistor under the glovey as that is USUALLY the symptom of failed resistor.... well still doesn't work.

I guess I am throwing more $$$ on this junk. Stupid how in 05/06 Chrysler decided to change the climate control. You can't just replace the Blower switch, you have to buy the WHOLE assembly :mad: Process of elimination now. Hoping a new assembly solves it.
 
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LieutenantJohnson said:
Only my highest setting on my Fan blower is working. So I replaced the Motor resistor under the glovey as that is USUALLY the symptom of failed resistor.... well still doesn't work.

I guess I am throwing more $$$ on this junk. Stupid how in 05/06 Chrysler decided to change the climate control. You can't just replace the Blower switch, you have to buy the WHOLE assembly :mad: Process of elimination now. Hoping a new assembly solves it.
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While you're in the replacing the switch, recommend doing the relay mod and adding a relay between each fan seeing and the fan with the switch controlling the relay and the relay providing straight power to the blower. The lighter is keyed 12V and right there to tap into (I guess you could talk into the 12V going into the switch to buy I didn't think to do that when I did mine).

I was going through a resistor about every 1-1.5 years then I did the mod and haven't replaced one since.
 
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FarFire70 said:
While you're in the replacing the switch, recommend doing the relay mod and adding a relay between each fan seeing and the fan with the switch controlling the relay and the relay providing straight power to the blower. The lighter is keyed 12V and right there to tap into (I guess you could talk into the 12V going into the switch to buy I didn't think to do that when I did mine).

I was going through a resistor about every 1-1.5 years then I did the mod and haven't replaced one since.
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Thanks for the tip. This is this first time dealing with it since owning the Jeep. I am not convinced that the Resistor I purchased is not defective. I am going to return this one and grab another in case. Don't want to throw money at it aimlessly
 
FarFire70 said:
While you're in the replacing the switch, recommend doing the relay mod and adding a relay between each fan seeing and the fan with the switch controlling the relay and the relay providing straight power to the blower. The lighter is keyed 12V and right there to tap into (I guess you could talk into the 12V going into the switch to buy I didn't think to do that when I did mine).

I was going through a resistor about every 1-1.5 years then I did the mod and haven't replaced one since.
Click to expand...
Where do you have your relays located? And did you replace/bypass the factory blower relay for the highest speed setting? I'm replacing the motor, resistor, and switch this weekend, and am contemplating the relay mod
 
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