Is my engine burning or leaking oil?

8c to 26c today, rarely will it get to 0 in winter but when it does its just before sunrise on a super clear day but warms up fairly quick, sort of like Desert weather.
Your 2.4 takes 4 USA quarts or 3.9 litres not 5 litres!
You have been overfilling unless you have an oil cooler?
4.7 litres is 4 UK quarts, I knew there was reason for mentioning the difference in my last post!
 
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Fishtaco said:
8c to 26c today, rarely will it get to 0 in winter but when it does its just before sunrise on a super clear day but warms up fairly quick, sort of like Desert weather.
Your 2.4 takes 4 USA quarts or 3.9 litres not 5 litres!
You have been overfilling unless you have an oil cooler?
4.7 litres is 4 UK quarts, I knew there was reason for mentioning the difference in my last post!
Click to expand...
I experience temperatures around 35 C (95 Fahrenheit) during summer. Up to 40 C (105 Fahrenheit) on hotter days.

2.5L engine needs 4 USA quarts, 2.4L engine needs 5 USA quarts.

I haven't been overfilling since I constantly check my levels.
 
Fishtaco said:
8c to 26c today, rarely will it get to 0 in winter but when it does its just before sunrise on a super clear day but warms up fairly quick, sort of like Desert weather.
Your 2.4 takes 4 USA quarts or 3.9 litres not 5 litres!
You have been overfilling unless you have an oil cooler?
4.7 litres is 4 UK quarts, I knew there was reason for mentioning the difference in my last post!
Click to expand...

Screenshot 2021-05-24 at 23.02.32.png
 
My manual only shows for the 4.0 so I just quickly looked it up for the 2.4, ET should change their site listing as the 4 quarts is for the 2.5 :)
 
Fishtaco said:
My manual only shows for the 4.0 so I just quickly looked it up for the 2.4, ET should change their site listing as the 4 quarts is for the 2.5 :)
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Yeap! Thanks for the tip thought! I will do some research for 10w40 and 15w40.

The only thing that concerns me is whether those viscosities are recommended for the 4.0 or the same applies for the 2.4L (for example for Mexican exports)
 
TJim said:
I experience temperatures around 35 C (95 Fahrenheit) during summer. Up to 40 C (105 Fahrenheit) on hotter days.

2.5L engine needs 4 USA quarts, 2.4L engine needs 5 USA quarts.

I haven't been overfilling since I constantly check my levels.
Click to expand...
With your summer temps you need a thicker oil in my opinion.
For some bazar reason USA could not manufacture 10w 40 at one stage (regulations?) so vehicle manufacturers played it safe with 5w-30/10w30 as they decided going to 50 which was available wasnt a good idea in case the extreme colder parts like Alaska used 10w-50 in winter.
This is the reason so many mechanics in hotter climates (other than USA) recommend a thicker oil, they didnt just pull it out of their ass it seems :)
But its your jeep and in a perfect world everyone would just rebuild if their engine stated to burn a bit of oil.
There must have been a reason why the PO had 10w-40 in a lower mileage and ignored the manual.
If my engine started to burn oil I would put engine honey in the oil and take my chances as a rebuild in Australia is around $10,000 because all the parts have to be imported.
 
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Motor sounded and felt tight meaty and quiet today running the 10w-40 over the 10w-30 (Placebo?)
What can you loose if you go back to 10w-40 high mileage conventional? If you dont like it then its just a 5L pot of oil cost! I have to buy 2 :( I think your motor will tell you on first drive.
I will possibly be going 15w-40 as a minimum in my summer so I will let you know what I think, I have no idea how this engine was treated before me other than my first oil change after purchase was low thick and very black.
 
Fishtaco said:
Motor sounded and felt tight meaty and quiet today running the 10w-40 over the 10w-30 (Placebo?)
What can you loose if you go back to 10w-40 high mileage conventional? If you dont like it then its just a 5L pot of oil cost! I have to buy 2 :( I think your motor will tell you on first drive.
I will possibly be going 15w-40 as a minimum in my summer so I will let you know what I think, I have no idea how this engine was treated before me other than my first oil change after purchase was low thick and very black.
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I will most possibly choose 10w40, but most likely synthetic not conventional.

Did you just did the change? I believe it might be placebo, but who knows.

What brand did you choose?
 
TJim said:
I will most possibly choose 10w40, but most likely synthetic not conventional.

Did you just did the change? I believe it might be placebo, but who knows.

What brand did you choose?
Click to expand...
Did the change out on Sunday morning but pissing down with rain all day, Monday I had a TOIL day and Trolled the forum all day, so today (Tuesday in oz.) I took it to work and on the way home drove around a bit more and chomped up some fuel, It feels like an improvement and engine is quieter, Placebo? Maybe! but it didn't grenade lol
Oil experts would be laughing their balls of at these threads if they read them lol
 
Fishtaco said:
Did the change out on Sunday morning but pissing down with rain all day, Monday I had a TOIL day and Trolled the forum all day, so today (Tuesday in oz.) I took it to work and on the way home drove around a bit more and chomped up some fuel, It feels like an improvement and engine is quieter, Placebo? Maybe! but it didn't grenade lol
Oil experts would be laughing their balls of at these threads if they read them lol
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Glad to hear you are in such a good mood.

I didn't expect it to grenade! lol
 
@Jerry Bransford

Would you consider Valvoline 10W40 MAXLIFE High-Mileage Engine Oil a good choice for my case?

* I cannot find any info that mentions that is MS-9365 approved like the manual suggests. Is that something I should worry about?

** I am leaning towards 10w40 instead of 5W30 I am currently using, because it's almost never cold over here, plus to be a bit thicker in order to test if I will have to refill like I do with 5w30.


https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...e with MaxLife,, friction, heat and deposits.
1621971295820.png

​

 
TJim said:
@Jerry Bransford

Would you consider Valvoline 10W40 MAXLIFE High-Mileage Engine Oil a good choice for my case?

* I cannot find any info that mentions that is MS-9365 approved like the manual suggests. Is that something I should worry about?

** I am leaning towards 10w40 instead of 5W30 I am currently using, because it's almost never cold over here, plus to be a bit thicker in order to test if I will have to refill like I do with 5w30.


https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...e with MaxLife,, friction, heat and deposits.
View attachment 254829

​

Click to expand...
I personally would only choose a synthetic when my local conditions are uber cold.. like when the temperatures are well below freezing where synthetic oil definitely has a demonstrated benefit. I would run a synthetic in those conditions. But in warm conditions? No, I choose not to. I personally would not since I strongly believe synthetics are not the best choice for all conditions and situations as some believe they are.
 
TJim said:
@Jerry Bransford

Would you consider Valvoline 10W40 MAXLIFE High-Mileage Engine Oil a good choice for my case?

* I cannot find any info that mentions that is MS-9365 approved like the manual suggests. Is that something I should worry about?

** I am leaning towards 10w40 instead of 5W30 I am currently using, because it's almost never cold over here, plus to be a bit thicker in order to test if I will have to refill like I do with 5w30.


https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...e with MaxLife,, friction, heat and deposits.
View attachment 254829

​

Click to expand...
If its cheap enough use it! If your main seal leaks after change ditch it! Look its like this really: you live in a hot climate and unless your motor is toast synthetic is better than conventional or blend! Ask you local Mechanic about it. 10 w-40 is a conservative oil in your climate. And by the way I never bought into Apple regardless the FanBoys marketing brainwash because Android is better lol
 
Fishtaco said:
If its cheap enough use it! If your main seal leaks after change ditch it! Look its like this really: you live in a hot climate and unless your motor is toast synthetic is better than conventional or blend! Ask you local Mechanic about it. 10 w-40 is a conservative oil in your climate. And by the way I never bought into Apple regardless the FanBoys marketing brainwash because Android is better lol
Click to expand...
I am an Apple guy. haha

What do you mean by conservative?
 
TJim said:
I am an Apple guy. haha

What do you mean by conservative?
Click to expand...
Meaning you could go to 15w-40 in your summer conditions and if burning oil even a 50 weight, so ok 50 isnt ideal but it will limit oil burn until you repair the engine if you do repair it. all those expensive thick additives people use may as well use 10w or 15w - 50 it does the same thing, it thickens your oil.
Those that profess to only using 10w-30 and must use only 10w-30 "because the manufacturer recommended it" then go and stick on 33s and a 4 inch lift? Do you believe the manufacturing designers didn't explore 33 inch tires and a 4 inch lift? But settled for 31,s on 16,s for the Rubicon?
TJ and jeep owners are re designing their rigs to suit their particular off road needs (99.9% are for looks) But the manufacturer didnt recommend 33,s and a 4 inch lift for a reason! but they go ahead with it and but "Oh No 10w-30 only"?
Most of the TJ problems are electrical and emission control failure the engine is old tech and would run on vegetable oil or grease, lift it and add bigger tires and you open a whole can of problem seeking worms that is evident on this forum, :)
Ask yourself this: Do you think changing gear at 3500 -4000 RPM is good for the engine when a stock manual jeep begs for a change at just over 2000 RPM?
 
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Fishtaco said:
Meaning you could go to 15w-40 in your summer conditions and if burning oil even a 50 weight, so ok 50 isnt ideal but it will limit oil burn until you repair the engine if you do repair it. all those expensive thick additives people use may as well use 10w or 15w - 50 it does the same thing, it thickens your oil.
Those that profess to only using 10w-30 and must use only 10w-30 "because the manufacturer recommended it" then go and stick on 33s and a 4 inch lift? Do you believe the manufacturing designers didn't explore 33 inch tires and a 4 inch lift? But settled for 31,s on 16,s for the Rubicon?
TJ and jeep owners are re designing their rigs to suit their particular off road needs (99.9% are for looks) But the manufacturer didnt recommend 33,s and a 4 inch lift for a reason! but they go ahead with it and but "Oh No 10w-30 only"?
Most of the TJ problems are electrical and emission control failure the engine is old tech and would run on vegetable oil or grease, lift it and add bigger tires and you open a whole can of problem seeking worms that is evident on this forum, :)
Ask yourself this: Do you think changing gear at 3500 -4000 RPM is good for the engine when a stock manual TJ begs for a change at just over 2000 RPM?
Click to expand...
 
Fishtaco said:
Meaning you could go to 15w-40 in your summer conditions and if burning oil even a 50 weight, so ok 50 isnt ideal but it will limit oil burn until you repair the engine if you do repair it. all those expensive thick additives people use may as well use 10w or 15w - 50 it does the same thing, it thickens your oil.
Those that profess to only using 10w-30 and must use only 10w-30 "because the manufacturer recommended it" then go and stick on 33s and a 4 inch lift? Do you believe the manufacturing designers didn't explore 33 inch tires and a 4 inch lift? But settled for 31,s on 16,s for the Rubicon?
TJ and jeep owners are re designing their rigs to suit their particular off road needs (99.9% are for looks) But the manufacturer didnt recommend 33,s and a 4 inch lift for a reason! but they go ahead with it and but "Oh No 10w-30 only"?
Most of the TJ problems are electrical and emission control failure the engine is old tech and would run on vegetable oil or grease, lift it and add bigger tires and you open a whole can of problem seeking worms that is evident on this forum, :)
Ask yourself this: Do you think changing gear at 3500 -4000 RPM is good for the engine when a stock manual jeep asks for a change at just over 2000 RPM?
Click to expand...
I just order Valvoline Maxlife 10W40. I will report back after some months possibly, in order to monitor how much I have to refill. I haven't had that much of a leakage/burning so I will not be able to know the results right away.

I am changing gears depending on the mood and location. Sometimes close to 2900-3200, Sometimes Lower, and sometimes around 4000.

BTW something off topic, that I see often and I kinda think is strange that is mentioned so many times. Stock Rubicons didn't come stock with 31" tires. They came stock with 245/75r16. This is equivalent to 30.5x9.5.

The common 31x10.5 tire would be closer to 265/70r16 or 265/75r15.
 
TJim said:
I just order Valvoline Maxlife 10W40. I will report back after some months possibly, in order to monitor how much I have to refill. I haven't had that much of a leakage/burning so I will not be able to know the results right away.

I am changing gears depending on the mood and location. Sometimes close to 2900-3200, Sometimes Lower, and sometimes around 4000.

BTW something off topic, that I see often and I kinda think is strange that is mentioned so many times. Stock Rubicons didn't come stock with 31" tires. They came stock with 245/75r16. This is equivalent to 30.5x9.5.

The common 31x10.5 tire would be closer to 265/70r16 or 265/75r15.
Click to expand...
Its just numbers mixed between metric and imperial!
On a side note I got a bit better MPG this week with the 10w-40, "placebo I know" but I have also totally lost my morning cold start up rattle, maybe because I changed to Magnatec Semi synth? But I assure you my engine seems more "Meaty"
My start up rattle was not there until I changed to recommended 10w-30 conventional which leads me to believe the P/O had much thicker oil in when I purchased it.
I have been assured that 10w- 40 will not damage your engine in anyway and if you believe modern synthetic makes your jeep leak oil then just change back to conventional in 6 months or sooner if your flush. :)
 
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