The Usual Rear Shock Problems

Zorba said:
Thank you for this - for whatever reason, I can't get a socket on the outboard bolt, passenger side - its very close to the frame. But I was using a 1/2" drive, 12 point socket.
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With the lower end disconnected from the axle, push the shock over and towards the front of the tank. That "should" give you a straight shot up to that outer bolt head. We do it by feel but you might need to take a peek up in there with some light and see if something is FUBAR.
 
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I had a hell of time with my rear shock bolts the first time I tried to get them off. Eventually figured out that the plastic dust cover was the the problem. I cut them off & had MUCH better access. I also cut the dust cover off of the new Ranchos that I installed. Given the amount of shit that was inside the dust cover on my old shocks I decided I don't want them. Getting them off now is a breeze.
 
mrblaine said:
With the lower end disconnected from the axle, push the shock over and towards the front of the tank. That "should" give you a straight shot up to that outer bolt head. We do it by feel but you might need to take a peek up in there with some light and see if something is FUBAR.
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This makes complete sense - will do, and thanx! {BOW HERE}
 
I ended up breaking the bolts intentionally, cutting off seized head in opening, and using new hardware.

If the old shock is removed you can fit a dremel with a cutting wheel into the opening and cut the bolt head off. Then use new bolts to install new shocks.
 
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it's been about a decade but I'm fairly sure when this happened to my 05 LJ, I got a dremel into the hole where the upper shock eyelet sits (after the shock was removed of course) and was able to grind at least one of the tack welds out that holds the nut to the frame. After that I could use a hammer and a punch from underneath and fold the nut up and over the other weld, which made it easier to grab and twist until it was loose, and just used another nut up there.

But I might be completely crazy. That's at least what I planned to do, but I can't remember what actually happened, other than by the end it seemed not quite so painful as I'd expected it to be.
 
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managed to get mine out unscathed with a little bit of a fight and some patience + time.. they were concerning though, definitely didnt want to just come out in one go.

I soaked for 2 days with kroil prior to touching them. slightly loosened like maybe a 1/8th of a turn, sprayed penetrating oil on it again and tightened it back in place, loosened a little more, sprayed, tightened, etc etc. dont try it all in one go. give the bolt a little time to work itself clear, loosen lube tighten loosen lube tighten. should work itself out if you take your time.

cleaned my bolts and threads, smothered the bolts in antisieze and set them back in place. ill probably go stainless in the future if they snap.
 
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The last two TJ's I've done rear shocks on, I coated them in 50/50 ATF and acetone for a couple days before I started. I keep some in a cheap spray bottle. The one that was most concerning needed some rocking back and forth on the way out, but they came out without twisting off.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
The last two TJ's I've done rear shocks on, I coated them in 50/50 ATF and acetone for a couple days before I started. I keep some in a cheap spray bottle. The one that was most concerning needed some rocking back and forth on the way out, but they came out without twisting off.
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Yea, that's what I tried...

I think the bolts are just too small to be rusted up!
 
freedom_in_4low said:
The last two TJ's I've done rear shocks on, I coated them in 50/50 ATF and acetone for a couple days before I started. I keep some in a cheap spray bottle. The one that was most concerning needed some rocking back and forth on the way out, but they came out without twisting off.
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i use that same mix. works good when your nuts get stuck !
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
it is. I've never tried kroil or breakfree but the ATF/acetone is sooo much better than PB Blaster it almost makes me mad that I used PBB for almost 20 years.
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kroil is the best in my opinion but will cost you a left nut. i do keep a can, but usually use the mix. as a aircraft mech. i used kroil alot. we had a threaded rod end that was seized and would not even think about loosening. we had the end but couldn't get the rod for 2 weeks. i emptied a can of kroil into a plastic cup and left it in there for a hour or so. we put it in a vise and with a crescent wrench got it to pop. let it soak some more and finally got it to work loose. both of these work great but need time to work, you aint going to spay them and 2 seconds later have them out....
 
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I can't understand it. I removed my rear shock bolts without needing to pre-spray with Kroil or anything else. I'd have thought that they'd be rusted in solid here on the SoCal coast. Nobody must have told the bolts.
 
SoCalGlide said:
I can't understand it. I removed my rear shock bolts without needing to pre-spray with Kroil or anything else. I'd have thought that they'd be rusted in solid here on the SoCal coast. Nobody must have told the bolts.
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I've removed 100's of them. We've never had a single one break or repaired any other than one set on a rig from back east that some one brought me to fix.
 
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