Recent content by PNW_LJ

Do the procedure JJ described. No more guessing and you might not have to spend any extra money.

x2 Unless your current wheeling group is entirely on CB, I would go GMRS. The range and sound quality on GMRS is a tremendous improvement, and they've overcome CB in popularity (at least in my area).

Those horns got all your weight savings down the drain..

Are you not able to find a complete NP231J in your area? I see them regularly in my area for $100-300.

Check out @Fluxor’s sliders. Quality’s up there with Savvy, from what I’ve seen. No step (yet), but maybe if you ask him very nicely..

Also doublecheck that it actually has the 4:1 ratio. All JKs had a NP241, but not all with the lower ratio. I don’t recall what the correct designation for a Rubi is (something like NP241OR or NP241J).

So the JK Rubi tcases varied across the production years. If I recall correctly, one from a 07-11 auto will bolt up to your transmission. I doubt it would bolt up to your tcase skid. Yokes or driveshafts would have to be changed too. Any year manual will also bolt up. 2012+ auto will NOT work...

Auto or manual?

Thanks for the input! It's interesting, didn't think a spot-light would be a favorite. I was initially looking for some floods to shine to the sides, but these KCs just look soo nice.

Like you, I prefer the look of the early style. But the later style mirrors are just so much easier to use.

I've had the issue since buying it stock. A Warn M8000 has a max amp draw of 435 amps, so it makes sense that the battery would be drained with a 117 amp alternator. In my case, it's draining much quicker than on my previous vehicles, going down to ~10 volts shortly after beginning to winch...

How thick is that roof, 22 gauge !?

I couldn't give you any concrete info, but this is something I need to look into as well. My dash voltage gauge drops significantly during winching, and I'm not sure whether the alternator or the old battery is the issue.

Is your current alternator not keeping up?