Does this sound like head gasket failure?

Tob

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Not even a whole week after replacing the water pump, the radiator ruptured. I JB welded the crack as a temp fix while I wait for the new radiator to be delivered. Today I drained the old radiator to remove it so that I'd have a head start when the new one comes in, and what came out has me pretty concerned.
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This isn't coolant. After I patched the radiator, I filled it with Thermocure rust flush and distilled water. It's very cloudy though. I also noticed some thick white substance deposited in the radiator hoses. December 24, I had accelerated really hard and heard a LOUD pop, had a coolant leak from the water pump, then parked it for a couple weeks until I replaced it. Then when I replaced the water pump, it wouldn't start back up until a week ago. When it did start, it idled roughly and threw a LOT of white vapor out the exhaust, but after a few minutes it ran fine. I also checked the oil level today and it is super high and I did not get consistent readings.

So on a scale of 1 to "grab some frosted flakes to go with that milk", how concerned should I be that the head gasket is blown? That is the conclusion I'm coming to.


Continuing from this thread: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/need-help-diagnosing-no-start.58786/
 
Id say yes to a bad head gasket or 0331 head (didnt see what year you have) Im thinking the combustion pressure getting it no your coolant system may be why the radiator blew apart and also blew out the water pump seal if thats what happened to it. It wouldent start like in would not crank over like in a hydro'ed engine on a cyl or two?? if you keep running it you do stand to blow another radiator seam from it getting more pressure in it than can escape out the cap. Crack can be mysterious we'll say as temps can make small things get big and visa versa.
 
Id say yes to a bad head gasket or 0331 head (didnt see what year you have) Im thinking the combustion pressure getting it no your coolant system may be why the radiator blew apart and also blew out the water pump seal if thats what happened to it. It wouldent start like in would not crank over like in a hydro'ed engine on a cyl or two?? if you keep running it you do stand to blow another radiator seam from it getting more pressure in it than can escape out the cap. Crack can be mysterious we'll say as temps can make small things get big and visa versa.
2004, no 0331 head. Not familiar with how a hydrolocked engine behaves, but it would crank but not start. I definitely won't be running it until I get everything sorted out. I didn't know compression could pressurize the cooling system with a blown head gasket but that does make sense now that you point it out that way.

Should I drain a bit of oil to see what it looks like?
 
If your thinking it is a head gasket/head issue be aware of rusty cylinders if water sits in there to long. may wanna attack things sooner than later ya know.
 
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Your radiator blew because it was an old piece of crap. As long as the radiator cap was not completely frozen it doesn't allow much more than 20psi so that probably wasn't what blew the top. A compression test is probably the cheapest way to tell for sure what's going on. A leak down test will work and so will sending the oil out. If you don't get consistent readings checking the oil just take a beat and give it another try. An oil change is also cheap but save a bit in a clean container so if you do decide to get it tested you have a sample.
 
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Put the radiator in use distilled water. Get a block check kit to check for combustion gases in the cooling system. That will tell you for sure if you are having an over pressure issues caused by combustion gases.

They are available at most auto parts stores. Super easy test.

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Your radiator blew because it was an old piece of crap. As long as the radiator cap was not completely frozen it doesn't allow much more than 20psi so that probably wasn't what blew the top. A compression test is probably the cheapest way to tell for sure what's going on. A leak down test will work and so will sending the oil out. If you don't get consistent readings checking the oil just take a beat and give it another try. An oil change is also cheap but save a bit in a clean container so if you do decide to get it tested you have a sample.
If the head gasket were blown and I didn't have good compression, wouldn't it run like crap? It still has the same get up and go as it did before as far as I can tell.
 
If the head gasket were blown and I didn't have good compression, wouldn't it run like crap? It still has the same get up and go as it did before as far as I can tell.
There is not any definite symptoms. Sometimes it’s oil in water, sometimes water in oil, sometimes combustion gases in cooling system sometimes none of the above and 2 cylinders leaking into each other. Head gaskets have many symptoms.
 
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If the head gasket were blown and I didn't have good compression, wouldn't it run like crap? It still has the same get up and go as it did before as far as I can tell.
My head gasket blew and I drove it to the mechanic. Still has the same "get up and go", but it died when on roundabouts and struggled with throttle at low speeds. Also a really bad rough idle, felt like an earthquake in the Jeep lol
 
2004, no 0331 head.

Should I drain a bit of oil to see what it looks like?
Yes, that would be an 0331 casting. I think what you are thinking is it would be a TUPY 0331 head which is correct.

And yes, just change the oil with some cheap Walmart stuff. See what it looks like. A compression test would help as well. Head gaskets blow in weird ways and don't always present the same symptoms.
 
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Look I hate to say it! If your head gasket has blown or your head has cracked there are 3 simple non mechanic advise sighs and that is:
Water in your oil or oil in your water or bubbles (effervesce) in the top of your radiator when the cap is off!

Heads and head gaskets failure do one of 2 things "Suck or blow"! They blow gas (Bubbles) or suck oil into the cooling system which you can clearly see as the water/coolant is flowing through an open thermostat radiator cap.

Trying to diagnose failure as a radiator or cooling system problem is "futile" if you have any of the 3 sighs of cracked head/Blown head gasket because "Never the twain Shall meet" re oil and water.

If you have a blown head gasket or cracked head your engine will overheat eventually 100% no matter how cold the outside temp because an engine doesn't recognise outside temps only the oil does. :)
 
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Ok I have an update. I installed the new radiator yesterday, filled with Zerex 50/50, and changed the engine oil. I've driven maybe 30 miles since then, and after popping the radiator cap open, the coolant is already a solid dark color. Not foamy but dark enough that I can't even see the top of the radiator through it. The old oil looked normal, no red flags. Any reason for concern or to stop driving it and fix something?
 
How well did you flush after the Thermocure? Thermocure turns the coolant dark grey/black, and it takes quite a bit of flushing to clear it up. If you didn't flush until clear water ran out, it could just be residuals from the Thermocure...
 
How well did you flush after the Thermocure? Thermocure turns the coolant dark grey/black, and it takes quite a bit of flushing to clear it up. If you didn't flush until clear water ran out, it could just be residuals from the Thermocure...
Ah that's a relief. That's exactly what color it is. After I installed the water pump, I filled it with thermocure and water, then when the radiator ruptured, most of that got blown out of the system. Then when I JB welded the radiator, I refilled it with thermocure and water since I didn't get a lot of drive time on the first fill. Before I installed the new radiator, I drained the block but didn't flush. I don't know why that slipped my mind, but now that I have $40+ of premix coolant in there, I am regretting not doing it. Boy, do I have a habit of doing things the hard way. 🤑