And here I thought Tito was a Mexican.
None of those in Texas.
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What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
None of those in Texas.
I'm at 45#s and counting, what to do with it has yet to be decided.
Friend of mine made some high and low velocity tannerite.biggest bang I've seen was strapping a tote full to an 10" pine tree and blew it apart
Did your wife make you say that? Can you fold the laundry without wrinkles?
I’m sure she doesn’t even know what an inverter is. Lol I can indeed fold laundry with the best of them. Still working on that fitted sheet but I have tee shirts mastered.
To be fair, I installed this kit almost 5 years ago. Could be totally different now.
Any audio or video w/audio of your setup running?
Unfortunately I don't really have any good videos showcasing that sweet whine. I'll get something once I finish this refresh.
::edit::
I did find this short clip. No load though
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I look forward to that. If I had the extra loot laying around at the moment, I'd be on this like a rat up a kilt. And now that I know it exists...every time I pop the hood all I can see is a shiny huffer filling the void on the driver's side.
Had to ice my gooch down for over an hour after seeing this...
I thought the firearm boards were bad...thank you for help me spend money I haven't earned yet!
I look forward to that. If I had the extra loot laying around at the moment, I'd be on this like a rat up a kilt. And now that I know it exists...every time I pop the hood all I can see is a shiny huffer filling the void on the driver's side.
Had to ice my gooch down for over an hour after seeing this...
View attachment 436357
I thought the firearm boards were bad...thank you for help me spend money I haven't earned yet!
So the biggest downside to this setup is the lack of charge cooling. You're blasting hot air directly into the intake on an engine that doesn't have a knock sensor. The Boosted Tech kit adds a 7th injector to the rear of the M90 to supply the extra fueling and it helps keep the temps down on the M90 itself a bit. But that relies on a piggyback FTC computer to pull timing and fire that 7th injector, and I've found the setup to be a bit flaky, especially in the cold.
One of the things I'm doing here is swapping to larger injectors and a 2bar map sensor off an SRT4 so I can remove the piggyback and run entirely off the factory PCM. Then I can just tune the stock PCM with my HP Tuner. Still run into that charge temp issue, potentially. I've been tossing around the idea for a couple years now of having an aftercooler made that would sandwich between the supercharger and the intake, and push the supercharger out of the hood. But, the easier solution I may do is a meth injection kit like @Mikee024 does. Until then I have to just be conservative with the timing.
Its why when people have asked me before for my experience with the SC I shy away from recommending this kit. You need to have a pretty thorough knowledge of what you're getting into and the shortcomings. I just really wanted that Roots blower whine because I'm stupid like that. But a turbo kit or centrifugal supercharger makes way more sense to me. Then you can just toss an intercooler in the grill and be done with it.
That’s the same MAP that the Banks kit uses. The OEM SRT4 sensor is currently unavailable, but weRmopar told me they had an order showing for more to be made. I don’t know if that order will be fulfilled (so far it has not been).
Fwiw:
I get pretty high charge temps at 1-3 psi (180* to 220*). This makes sense because the IATs are already around 167* driving around when not in boost.
The water/meth injection drastically cools down the IATs once I get more towards 5-6 psi (cools down to 120* if I stay in that boost range). It’s not good for cooling between 1-3 psi.
This works for now since it keeps temps from getting crazy high when in higher boost. There is no detonation and the engine makes plenty of power even though the PCM pulls timing.
I’ll probably install the intercooler, hood louver, and ceramic JBA headers once I have time to take on those projects.
Luckily I've got a new one of those sitting on my workbench. Just ordered an OEM rad through weRmopar. First time ordering from them. Might need to utilize that resource more often.
Think my fanclt
don't think my prayers worked, new Hayden 2771 fan clutch in sept…shouldn’t it be roaring like a jet engine with the ac on and idling for 20+min?
don't think my prayers worked, new Hayden 2771 fan clutch in sept…shouldn’t it be roaring like a jet engine with the ac on and idling for 20+min?
Fwiw, I don’t notice my mopar fan clutch roaring when sitting in the driver seat with the top off.
Are your coolant temps under ~215* in idle with the AC on?
Nope, scanner said 226 at idle after 20min with AC. In sept I did Thermocure, new Hayden fan clutch, supertanT Tstat and new rad cap. Radiator is OEM (pressure test is good) I have a Mopar water pump on the shelf but before I started throwing parts I wanted to sanity check the fan clutch. (Its stiff to spin both warm and cold / less than 1/4 turn by hand) but there is no change in noise.
Thermocure was on clearance for $.05 so I’m going to start another flush since I noticed sediment in the Radiator
Bummer.
Did you drain the block before the last flush? If not, I highly recommend it (this is the adaptor I used for the drain plug). I had lots of sentiments sitting in the bottom of my block.
Given your situation, I’d also consider doing a back flush on the radiator and flushing both heater core hoses before you do the next round of thermocure. I had all kinds of nasties come out of the heat core that could have caused me problems later.
Edit: I’d also test the thermostat in boiling water to ensure it’s opening up properly. Tbh, I’d likely throw a Mopar TS in or get a Murray and drill a 1/8” hole in it to be oriented at 12 o’clock. The Murray 195* have good reviews and mine opened up well on my last rig (I boiled it before install and it opened up more than the TS that I removed).
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Nothing glamorous like a blower build, but I did get around to changing my wiper blades and using a can of throttle body cleaner on my TB and IAC. I used Jerry’s method and kept the TB bolted on, and just cleaned it by hand/rag initially. Then I fired her up and sprayed a 1/3 can at idle and the rest while giving her some revs.
I don’t think this had ever been done in 140k miles but boy did the Rubicon need it. My idle is so much better, and she runs so much smoother after I completed the clean and unhooked the battery for about 15-20 min. Throttle response was much better too!
Before and after
I don’t think this had ever been done in 140k miles but boy did the Rubicon need it. My idle is so much better, and she runs so much smoother after I completed the clean and unhooked the battery for about 15-20 min. Throttle response was much better too!
Before and after