98 TJ build log

techjeeper said:
I just did the full kits front and rear on my JKUR. I stuck with 32 spline for now since I’m already regeared and still running factory lockers. They make you use the wide kit for the 35spline conversion because it’s parts interchangeability with there Tera 60 axle. You can order the Tera60 housing with a diff and nothing else and the hub conversion parts will all bolt into it I’m fairly certain.
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That makes sense. Just makes me wonder if that axle bolt pattern is a standard Dana 60 and shaft thickness is the same. That way if you don't have the wide kit and want to upgrade to 35 spline you can just buy the correct length from anywhere that sells shafts not specifically from teraflex. Good to see someone with actual experience with them too. Being a standard tj I feel the full float kit should give me plenty of strength in the rear to handle 37-40s.
 
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jhinton088 said:
That makes sense. Just makes me wonder if that axle bolt pattern is a standard Dana 60 and shaft thickness is the same. That way if you don't have the wide kit and want to upgrade to 35 spline you can just buy the correct length from anywhere that sells shafts not specifically from teraflex. Good to see someone with actual experience with them too. Being a standard tj I feel the full float kit should give me plenty of strength in the rear to handle 37-40s.
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This is interesting. I have a CRD60 rear and wonder if one of these kits would fit on it. TeraFlex isn't much help when I've asked since mine was built when it was called TeraLow & there doesn't seem to be much information available.
 
jhinton088 said:
That makes sense. Just makes me wonder if that axle bolt pattern is a standard Dana 60 and shaft thickness is the same. That way if you don't have the wide kit and want to upgrade to 35 spline you can just buy the correct length from anywhere that sells shafts not specifically from teraflex. Good to see someone with actual experience with them too. Being a standard tj I feel the full float kit should give me plenty of strength in the rear to handle 37-40s.
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I can’t imagine they’d reinvent the Dana 60 hub and axle bolt pattern. All the parts appear pretty off the shelf except the bolt in spindles front and rear. The front stub shaft is even 35spline. The only oddity there is they matched the ujoint to the rubicon 1350 instead if the standard Dana 44 1310.
 
Wildman said:
This is interesting. I have a CRD60 rear and wonder if one of these kits would fit on it. TeraFlex isn't much help when I've asked since mine was built when it was called TeraLow & there doesn't seem to be much information available.
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does it use JK brake backing plates?
 
Wildman said:
This is interesting. I have a CRD60 rear and wonder if one of these kits would fit on it. TeraFlex isn't much help when I've asked since mine was built when it was called TeraLow & there doesn't seem to be much information available.
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I have everything apart let me know if you need any measurements on anything. It drives me crazy not having a ton of info on certain things so if I can help.
 
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techjeeper said:
I can’t imagine they’d reinvent the Dana 60 hub and axle bolt pattern. All the parts appear pretty off the shelf except the bolt in spindles front and rear. The front stub shaft is even 35spline. The only oddity there is they matched the ujoint to the rubicon 1350 instead if the standard Dana 44 1310.
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That's a nice upgrade.
 
jhinton088 said:
I have everything apart let me know if you need any measurements on anything. It drives me crazy not having a ton of info on certain things so if I can help.
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From the sounds of it they changed the backing plates they use. I was luck to get a list of bearings and stuff used in my axle. But I did buy it in 2005 used. It was built in 2004 as far as I know.
 
Wildman said:
No, it had Explorer brakes but I took them off and put some larger brakes on. It has a Set20 wheel bearing.
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It’s probably an older generation axle than what works with full float conversion. I think the JK semi float tera60 use JK brake backing plates and bear retention, and the hub conversion was actually a way to upgrade the tera60 semi float to full float originally then they realized it could expanded to the jk and jkr rear axles as well with just a different spindle and axle shaft.
 
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techjeeper said:
It’s probably an older generation axle than what works with full float conversion. I think the JK semi float tera60 use JK brake backing plates and bear retention, and the hub conversion was actually a way to upgrade the tera60 semi float to full float originally then they realized it could expanded to the jk and jkr rear axles as well with just a different spindle and axle shaft.
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Yep, that is what it sounds like. Bummer as it would have been nice to have the option of FF rear axle for cheap.
 
Wildman said:
Yep, that is what it sounds like. Bummer as it would have been nice to have the option of FF rear axle for cheap.
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I could definitely see where your wheels were turning, definitely would have been cool. At least they used the 8.8 housing end pattern and not some strange proprietary non sense that you can get parts for.
 
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One of the big things I wanted to make sure was that the 250 outers would net me the 67.5 wms I was looking for. Not a ton of info on it without sifting through old Ford forums but it looks like it does. Now hopefully the stock 150 outer shafts will work to get everything tested before I buy new shafts.
 
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jhinton088 said:
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One of the big things I wanted to make sure was that the 250 outers would net me the 67.5 wms I was looking for. Not a ton of info on it without sifting through old Ford forums but it looks like it does. Now hopefully the stock 150 outer shafts will work to get everything tested before I buy new shafts.
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Years ago I gathered all the parts to build 5x5.5 outers to build a ford 9” front axle my last TJ and it just never came to be. I need to go out and see if I can round up all the parts again. Someone might need them.

I’m really liking his build. D60s really can be overkill in a lot of situations and I think a well built Dana 44 is really good when done right like yours.

I had a YJ on 38s and fuel injected 350/350 Chevy V8 and a fully built hpd44 held up great even when I’d give the skinny pedal in the rocks. Great ground clearance too.
 
I know you have your front axle assembled already but when the time comes to replace the ball joints have you thought about ball joint deletes? I've got theses from BoneFish installed on mine right now but plan on installing American Iron's ball joint deletes after I run the BoneFish ones.

https://americanironoffroad.com/collections/other/products/old-school-66-95

I want to get a few miles on the BoneFish BJD's first before I install the American Iron BJD's so I can try to give a good comparison between the two styles.
 
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Wildman said:
I know you have your front axle assembled already but when the time comes to replace the ball joints have you thought about ball joint deletes? I've got theses from BoneFish installed on mine right now but plan on installing American Iron's ball joint deletes after I run the BoneFish ones.

https://americanironoffroad.com/collections/other/products/old-school-66-95

I want to get a few miles on the BoneFish BJD's first before I install the American Iron BJD's so I can try to give a good comparison between the two styles.
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I've heard the name American iron off-road. I think I may have even reached out to them about the ball joints deletes in the early days of the build. Because I believe the Dana 44 ford ball joints from them are fairly new. I could be mistaken because I remember it was hard to find ones that pressed into the outer knuckle. Anyways hopefully my ball joints are the only thing that gives me problems on the front end. If it holds up seems worth it to upgrade I'll definitely give American iron off road a try.

I recently reached out to a company to have my gears cryo dipped and it sounds like 100 per gearset plus shipping so I haven't decided if that's worth it or not. Do you have any experience with getting things treated to increase strength?
 
jhinton088 said:
I've heard the name American iron off-road. I think I may have even reached out to them about the ball joints deletes in the early days of the build. Because I believe the Dana 44 ford ball joints from them are fairly new. I could be mistaken because I remember it was hard to find ones that pressed into the outer knuckle. Anyways hopefully my ball joints are the only thing that gives me problems on the front end. If it holds up seems worth it to upgrade I'll definitely give American iron off road a try.

I recently reached out to a company to have my gears cryo dipped and it sounds like 100 per gearset plus shipping so I haven't decided if that's worth it or not. Do you have any experience with getting things treated to increase strength?
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I had a set of gears Cryo dipped and honestly can't say that it helped any at all.

And yes American Iron Off Road has only had the old school Dana 44 style BJD's available since I think March of this year. He'd been working on them for a while but had other models that had priority. Once released he says that the Dana 44 are one of the easiest ones that he's done so far. I'd bought the BoneFish ones years ago when they were the only option. But I like the American Iron design a lot more. I had 3 years of running my 38" tires on stock Spicer bj's and they were still good with maybe a little bit of slop.
The bigger thing is breaking a u-joint and then taking out a ball joint due to that which is one of the pluses of the BJD's.
 
Wildman said:
I had a set of gears Cryo dipped and honestly can't say that it helped any at all.

And yes American Iron Off Road has only had the old school Dana 44 style BJD's available since I think March of this year. He'd been working on them for a while but had other models that had priority. Once released he says that the Dana 44 are one of the easiest ones that he's done so far. I'd bought the BoneFish ones years ago when they were the only option. But I like the American Iron design a lot more. I had 3 years of running my 38" tires on stock Spicer bj's and they were still good with maybe a little bit of slop.
The bigger thing is breaking a u-joint and then taking out a ball joint due to that which is one of the pluses of the BJD's.
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Yeah I wouldn't want to do that. I have a fresh pair of Spicers in so if I get 2 years out of em I definitely say it's worth the 80 bucks I spent on rockauto. Currently I just have stock shafts that I'll use to test everything but plan to just go right to rcvs once I can afford them.
 
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jhinton088 said:
Yeah I wouldn't want to do that. I have a fresh pair of Spicers in so if I get 2 years out of em I definitely say it's worth the 80 bucks I spent on rockauto. Currently I just have stock shafts that I'll use to test everything but plan to just go right to rcvs once I can afford them.
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I broke a stock Spicer u-joint and ruined a set of Alloy USA shafts in the process. I was snow wheeling and was working the frontend side to side trying to climb up a steep section of trail. Luckily I heard it break so stopped and didn't take out the ball joints.
I sprang for RCV's this time around but I've got those Alloy USA shafts & Longfield u-joints as spares.
 
Wildman said:
I broke a stock Spicer u-joint and ruined a set of Alloy USA shafts in the process. I was snow wheeling and was working the frontend side to side trying to climb up a steep section of trail. Luckily I heard it break so stopped and didn't take out the ball joints.
I sprang for RCV's this time around but I've got those Alloy USA shafts & Longfield u-joints as spares.
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Rcvs seem like the way to go.
 
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