I think I'm ready to start pricing my build (05 LJR)

OP - you have mentioned a few times that you will not be doing any serious wheeling, within the context that this will somehow result in a less complicated and less costly build. This is not the case. Your focus should be on maintaining a safe and good ride on the street, and to do this you need a well designed suspension, good shocks, appropriate gearing, brakes and steering. None of which is inexpensive to do correctly - especially when building for 35’s.

Many have tried to build for 33’s and 35’s on the cheap, taking shortcuts, and often find they have destroyed the street ride. If the rig becomes no fun to dive as a result, you may find yourself not enjoying it. Then you will either put up with it, get rid of it, or rebuild it again to fix the issues - at which point you will have spent much more than doing it right the first time.

Whatever you decide, just go into it with you eyes open, and carefully consider the advice you will get here on the forum.

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Yes. 4.10s. You have the auto or 6 speed? The auto will require a regear no matter what size tire.

This is an opinion. I run 35’s w stock 3.73’s and what i don’t know doesn’t hurt me.
Buddy runs 35’s w 4:56.
Both autos.
I don’t care what anyone says. I’m doing 75 on highway and he can’t lose me.
🤷🏼‍♂️

Edit: i know my transmission is feeling it. Temp gauge and love
 
This is an opinion. I run 35’s w stock 3.73’s and what i don’t know doesn’t hurt me.

But now you know. ;)
p.s. Year ago, I ran 35s with 3.73 gears and stock brakes. Mrblaine set me on the right path. I can never thank him enough. To me, you can live with being under-geared for places like Florida, but BMB are a MUST HAVE for 33's and 35s for safety reasons. My Jeep stops quicker than my 38 mpg "midget car" :cool:.

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2005 Rubicon Unlimited. I have 1.5"BL and 1"MML done so far. Previous owner added and aftermarket rear bumper and I added a hitch receiver. Other than that this thing is mostly stock. I have been all over the Beginners building thread and am very thankful for that as far as details on the builds go. I'll be doing the wrenching myself.

It's not a daily driver, so it can sit in the garage during this process, or just move around the yard. I would like to do the lift and tires for stance/looks, as well as light to moderate off-roading if needed(but not on a regular basis).

Ideally I would like to budget the lift under $2000, and then worry about the wheels and tires after the other work is all done. I know I'll need to decide on tire size at least before I move forward with any of it. I'd really like to have 35s on it when the build is done. I'd like to do it the right way, but I feel I probably don't need the top of the line kit for the small amount of wheeling I would be doing. And can individual parts be upgraded fairly easily later on?

After all that, then I'll worry about extras like a spare carrier for the back, winch, etc...

So I guess my questions are:
Will $2000 be enough to do all the suspension work?
Am I better off to buy a full kit or piece one out?
Where would you all suggest I look to buy? (Are there any brick and mortar options anymore?)

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the knowledge bombs drop. Thanks in advance, I'm kind of a noob still for TJ's but I love them.

***edit*** Considering a build for 33s at this point also. ***

I’m running 285’s KM 3 ‘s on stock 4:10’s on my 06 LJR with the NSG-370 and feel it drives ok on road as well as off road.

The 4:1 transfer case as well as the low first gear is plenty for this old man’s needs at this point.
Plus, lockers and winch make it a bit easier to get out of trouble which tends to happen from time to time.

For springs I have RE 3 1/2”s with OME shocks and as mentioned all Currie adj control arms, track bars and steering.

I have taller 4” Currie springs but haven’t felt the need to install them yet.

Run your rig with the way it is on some easy/mild trails with friends and get a feel for how it performs. Then you’ll get a better feel for where you may want the build to end at…although you may never entirely done😄👍🏻
 
But now you know. ;)
p.s. Year ago, I ran 35s with 3.73 gears and stock brakes. Mrblaine set me on the right path. I can never thank him enough. To me, you can live with being under-geared for places like Florida, but BMB are a MUST HAVE for 33's and 35s for safety reasons. My Jeep stops quicker than my 38 mpg "midget car" :cool:.

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The BMB brakes are definitely a must have, which i do. The gears I’m living without until next locker upgrade
 
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As far as gears go, it’s not how one feels, but it’s what is proper.

Everyone may have a budget, but at least give up on the “I feel like mine is fine argument.”

You sound like someone saying, “McDonald’s food is fine.”

Not to mention it’s not even food.
 
33’s with 3.73 stock gears and the 42rle on my jeep and overdrive is useless at best. still trying to scrape up the funds for 5.13 gears. bought a wife and that purchase put a major kink in my jeep fund. oh well, that’s life!
 
I’m running 285’s KM 3 ‘s on stock 4:10’s on my 06 LJR
Sorry, this is a pet peeve for me. Assuming you are running your factory 16" Moabs, BFG only makes one "285" on a 16 which is a 285/75R16 which comes out to a 32.8x11.2. However, without the other info, nobody has any way of knowing what size tire you are actually talking about.

285=width in millimeter
75=sidewall aspect ratio (75% of the width)
16=rim diameter
 
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Sorry, this is a pet peeve for me. Assuming you are running your factory 16" Moabs, BFG only makes one "285" on a 16 which is a 285/75R16 which comes out to a 32.8x11.2. However, without the other info, nobody has any way of knowing what size tire you are actually talking about.

285=width in millimeter
75=sidewall aspect ratio (75% of the width)
16=rim diameter

Sorry typing on my phone and multi tasking.
Will be more specific next post.
Indeed 285x75x16 but running “vintage” AEV wheels.
 
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As far as gears go, it’s not how one feels, but it’s what is proper.

Everyone may have a budget, but at least give up on the “I feel like mine is fine argument.”

You sound like someone saying, “McDonald’s food is fine.”

Not to mention it’s not even food.

So am I proper?
Could go 4.56….
 
I have a lot of bnib parts I might sell for around $3500. Depends on how serious you are. Currie double adjustable upper and lower arms, Rancho shocks, BDS springs, SSSYE, BMB pads and rotors, Currectlync, Oro Swayloc, 5 Ultra 5051 Wheels. Tom Woods driveshaft. Might start tossing the idea of selling everything.
 
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I have a lot of bnib parts I might sell for around $3500. Depends on how serious you are. Currie double adjustable upper and lower arms, Rancho shocks, BDS springs, SSSYE, BMB pads and rotors, Currectlync, Oro Swayloc, 5 Ultra 5051 Wheels. Tom Woods driveshaft. Might start tossing the idea of selling everything.

Bnib ?
 
So am I proper?
Could go 4.56….

If those metric 33 equivalents are your final tire size and transmission stays the same, then 456 is proper.
 
33’s with 3.73 stock gears and the 42rle on my jeep and overdrive is useless at best. still trying to scrape up the funds for 5.13 gears. bought a wife and that purchase put a major kink in my jeep fund. oh well, that’s life!

Did you get one of the mail order brides? How much are those in Jeep parts?

If you’re not willing to answer we’ll just ask @TheBoogieman.
 
Auto. I'll need to regear even for 33s?

You don't have to, but it drives better if you do.
I went many years (on 33s) before regearing, it was tolerable.
You'll end up turning the OD off alot.
Driving through the mountains was the worst.
 
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Did you get one of the mail order brides? How much are those in Jeep parts?

If you’re not willing to answer we’ll just ask @TheBoogieman.

no, not a mail order bride. just joking around about the cost of being married! seems every time i think i’m saving for regearing she comes up with something else that she believes we need.
 
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