I think I'm ready to start pricing my build (05 LJR)

eSkilliam

eSkilliam

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2005 Rubicon Unlimited. I have 1.5"BL and 1"MML done so far. Previous owner added and aftermarket rear bumper and I added a hitch receiver. Other than that this thing is mostly stock. I have been all over the Beginners building thread and am very thankful for that as far as details on the builds go. I'll be doing the wrenching myself.

It's not a daily driver, so it can sit in the garage during this process, or just move around the yard. I would like to do the lift and tires for stance/looks, as well as light to moderate off-roading if needed(but not on a regular basis).

Ideally I would like to budget the lift under $2000, and then worry about the wheels and tires after the other work is all done. I know I'll need to decide on tire size at least before I move forward with any of it. I'd really like to have 35s on it when the build is done. I'd like to do it the right way, but I feel I probably don't need the top of the line kit for the small amount of wheeling I would be doing. And can individual parts be upgraded fairly easily later on?

After all that, then I'll worry about extras like a spare carrier for the back, winch, etc...

So I guess my questions are:
Will $2000 be enough to do all the suspension work?
Am I better off to buy a full kit or piece one out?
Where would you all suggest I look to buy? (Are there any brick and mortar options anymore?)

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the knowledge bombs drop. Thanks in advance, I'm kind of a noob still for TJ's but I love them.

***edit*** Considering a build for 33s at this point also. ***
 
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astjp2 said:
I pieced out my lift, used springs, new control arms, fox shocks, it adds up. The killer is the extras like driveshafts and good shocks cost more.
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eSkilliam said:
2005 Rubicon Unlimited. I have 1.5"BL and 1"MML done so far. Previous owner added and aftermarket rear bumper and I added a hitch receiver. Other than that this thing is mostly stock. I have been all over the Beginners building thread and am very thankful for that as far as details on the builds go. I'll be doing the wrenching myself.

It's not a daily driver, so it can sit in the garage during this process, or just move around the yard. I would like to do the lift and tires for stance/looks, as well as light to moderate off-roading if needed(but not on a regular basis).

Ideally I would like to budget the lift under $2000, and then worry about the wheels and tires after the other work is all done. I know I'll need to decide on tire size at least before I move forward with any of it. I'd really like to have 35s on it when the build is done. I'd like to do it the right way, but I feel I probably don't need the top of the line kit for the small amount of wheeling I would be doing. And can individual parts be upgraded fairly easily later on?

After all that, then I'll worry about extras like a spare carrier for the back, winch, etc...

So I guess my questions are:
Will $2000 be enough to do all the suspension work?
Am I better off to buy a full kit or piece one out?
Where would you all suggest I look to buy? (Are there any brick and mortar options anymore?)

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the knowledge bombs drop. Thanks in advance, I'm kind of a noob still for TJ's but I love them.
Click to expand...

Buy once cry once

$2k is a bit light for suspension to run 35’s.
After screwing around with other lifts many years ago on my 99TJ I finally bit the bullet after 3 years and went with Currie.
Just purchased a 2006 LJR this past summer and the previous owner had a RE short arm lift whose joints were a bit worn.
Replaced with Currie.
You may also want a Big Brake kit. Brakes are often overlooked when going to bigger tires.
 
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You're not going to "do it right" for 2K and run 35's. That's not to say you can't get 35's on there for 2K...I mean a 2" OME lift, some cheap shocks, and a 3" body lift will get you there.

Read the "so you want to run 35's..." thread.
 
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Remember One Thing Leads To Another on a TJ. I think you’ll be north of $6k before long. A 35” setup costs way more than a 32”. The lift itself is the cheap part. Don’t be discouraged as it will be worth it in the long run. Frugal is good. Cheap is bad.
 
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Well I'm not sold on 35s. What would we look at for a lift for 33s? Same usage. Would I be fine without re-gearing? Like I said. It's going to be mostly for stance and a little for offroading. Not talking rock climbing, just like trails. Overlanding type stuff. Hell, 33s may be better for that anyway.
 
eSkilliam said:
Well I'm not sold on 35s. What would we look at for a lift for 33s? Same usage. Would I be fine without re-gearing? Like I said. It's going to be mostly for stance and a little for offroading. Not talking rock climbing, just like trails. Overlanding type stuff. Hell, 33s may be better for that anyway.
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What's your current gear ratio? I'm on 33s with 3.73s and the 32rh and it's tolerable but definitely not great.
 
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My LJR has 4.10s with a 6 speed on 265/75/16s and it had hardly any effect on power versus the 245s. With the 32s you also don't have to get a speedo healer as the speedometer is dead nuts accurate with 32s. (Reads a hair fast on 31s, Rubicons you can't just buy a new gear tooth). You might find 33's fine for your purposes. It's kind of a subjective issue, and it doesn't hurt to drive around for a bit before regearing. 4.56 would be ideal for 33's with a 6 speed but not everyone is going to regear just to go one set of gears deeper. 35's definitely a good idea to regear.

I spent around 2500-2700 dollars for my 3.5 inch front lift, 2.25 rear, and 32s. The Jeep already had the front sway bar links I wanted, and the rear springs I wanted to use. This set up would work well for 33's especially if you already have a body lift or trimmed fenders. For 35's you would be looking at 5k prolly due to control arms and regear. YMMV Anyways, that is my thinking on the matter. I'll let the veterans come in later and share their advice.
 
OP - you have mentioned a few times that you will not be doing any serious wheeling, within the context that this will somehow result in a less complicated and less costly build. This is not the case. Your focus should be on maintaining a safe and good ride on the street, and to do this you need a well designed suspension, good shocks, appropriate gearing, brakes and steering. None of which is inexpensive to do correctly - especially when building for 35’s.

Many have tried to build for 33’s and 35’s on the cheap, taking shortcuts, and often find they have destroyed the street ride. If the rig becomes no fun to dive as a result, you may find yourself not enjoying it. Then you will either put up with it, get rid of it, or rebuild it again to fix the issues - at which point you will have spent much more than doing it right the first time.

Whatever you decide, just go into it with you eyes open, and carefully consider the advice you will get here on the forum.
 
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sab said:
"I think I'm ready to start pricing my build (05 LJR)"

Don't do it. No good can come from you knowing the cost. Just build it and don't look back! :ROFLMAO:
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Man you hit the nail on the head.

When I read the title I was like what in the world is he thinking?

What it takes for a really good lift is reckless abandon, a high tolerance for risk and some form of criminal negligence. You could end up with something really nice with those attributes.
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
OP - you have mentioned a few times that you will not be doing any serious wheeling, within the context that this will somehow result in a less complicated and less costly build. This is not the case. Your focus should be on maintaining a safe and good ride on the street, and to do this you need a well designed suspension, good shocks, appropriate gearing, brakes and steering. None of which is inexpensive to do correctly - especially when building for 35’s.

Many have tried to build for 33’s and 35’s on the cheap, taking shortcuts, and often find they have destroyed the street ride. If the rig becomes no fun to dive as a result, you may find yourself not enjoying it. Then you will either put up with it, get rid of it, or rebuild it again to fix the issues - at which point you will have spent much more than doing it right the first time.

Whatever you decide, just go into it with you eyes open, and carefully consider the advice you will get here on the forum.
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This is a fantastic post.

We understand wanting the look and the bigger tires- To some degree most of us have done it - many of us several times-

When these jeeps were manufactured they were designed and built around the ride height and tires that came on them-entirely.

From the wheel clearance, brakes, steering, axle geometry, travel and more , you more or less have to redesign/adjust most of it to work effectively as you make the changes for big tires -

This is not something new- the difference is we are going to tell you what nobody else is going to tell you because we know that if you do it right you’re still going to have a great driving jeep- and you will hate it if you don’t. Also if you go into it without budgeting enough money that is a sure fire way to end up with something that needs more to make it right again. Then you are in the game.

Most of the world doesn’t realize these need a complete lift solution and that is why most lifted jeeps for sale are being gotten rid of- they are terrible to ride in and drive.

If you’ll understand everything that it entails for the specific tire size and don’t even start until you’re sure you can swing it, it will be a better move.

Please don’t take this as a buzzkiller-

35’s are an entirely different realm - you can run up to 33’s in some scenarios and save a few bucks- 35’s are too much tire to be able to do that. I know of a girl right now with a burned up tranny- 35’s and stock gears did it.
 
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eSkilliam said:
2005 Rubicon Unlimited. I have 1.5"BL and 1"MML done so far. Previous owner added and aftermarket rear bumper and I added a hitch receiver. Other than that this thing is mostly stock. I have been all over the Beginners building thread and am very thankful for that as far as details on the builds go. I'll be doing the wrenching myself.

It's not a daily driver, so it can sit in the garage during this process, or just move around the yard. I would like to do the lift and tires for stance/looks, as well as light to moderate off-roading if needed(but not on a regular basis).

Ideally I would like to budget the lift under $2000, and then worry about the wheels and tires after the other work is all done. I know I'll need to decide on tire size at least before I move forward with any of it. I'd really like to have 35s on it when the build is done. I'd like to do it the right way, but I feel I probably don't need the top of the line kit for the small amount of wheeling I would be doing. And can individual parts be upgraded fairly easily later on?

After all that, then I'll worry about extras like a spare carrier for the back, winch, etc...

So I guess my questions are:
Will $2000 be enough to do all the suspension work?
Am I better off to buy a full kit or piece one out?
Where would you all suggest I look to buy? (Are there any brick and mortar options anymore?)

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the knowledge bombs drop. Thanks in advance, I'm kind of a noob still for TJ's but I love them.

***edit*** Considering a build for 33s at this point also. ***
Click to expand...

Read @NashvilleTJ build thread..........
 
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I'll go back and read through the posts you guys gave me and take it back to the drawing board. I had figured I could budget the suspension lift for around $2000, Wheels and tires maybe used for $1500-$2000 and that would be mostly all I needed. But apparently I was way off on lift prices and didn't realize I'd need to re-gear and possibly look at brakes.

Let me rethink this. I'll get back to you in a couple years :D

Thanks for all the input!
 
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