So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?

Chris

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I felt this thread was necessary at this point. We see a lot of people on the forum who insist on running 35" tires, but probably don't know how to do it properly, or what's required (other than just the tires and lift).

For anyone considering adding 35" tires to their TJ, first take into consideration that this is no small feat. You're going to need at minimum several thousand dollars set aside. Sure, there's ways to do it on the cheap, but if you plan on off-roading your TJ at all, you'll want to do it right.

I'm going to give you a run down of what you'll need to properly run 35" tires:


Lift Kit (5" to 6" of lift)
This can be done with all suspension lift, or a combination of something like 4" of suspension lift and 1" of body lift. I prefer the latter because that body lift will allow you to tuck your transfer case (tummy tuck), which is highly desirably in off-road situations. For a good quality lift (i.e. Currie, Metalcloak, etc.) you should be prepared to spend around $3000. For a lesser quality lift (i.e. Rough Country, Skyjacker, etc.), you'll probably spend around $1500 (but you'll be getting a subpar quality lift).


LCG Lift
Alternatively, if you want a low center of gravity (LCG) lift, you can go with a 2" to 3" lift, tubed or highline fenders, and trim the tub. This will easily fit 35" tires while giving you that low center of gravity. For the record though, I think the whole "LCG" thing is complete bullshit.


Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) & Double Cardan (CV) Drive Shaft
You'll definitely need a slip yoke eliminator and double cardan driveshaft. The only exception will be if you have a Rubicon model. Then you'll only need the double cardan driveshaft. Be prepared to spend around $900+ for everything, not including labor. For more information on SYEs, check out this thread: The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread


Wheels & Tires
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Figure that you'll spend around $600 (more if you buy premium wheels) on a new set of 5 wheels (don't forget the spare), and $1500 on a new set of 35" tires. So roughly $2100 for wheels and tires (35" tires aren't cheap!).


Stock TJ Axles
A stock Dana 35 rear axle can actually be built to be very durable. For proof of that, and to read more on the subject, check this thread out: Should I upgrade my Dana 35 axle?

A stock Dana 30 front axle can be made to last with chromoly shafts. There's a lot of guys out there running Dana 30 front axles with 35" tires who haven't had any issues.


Stock TJ Rubicon Axles
A stock Dana 44 rear axle will be more up to the task of running 35" tires than a Dana 35. However, the stock axle shafts will still be the weak point. If you upgrade them to a high quality chromoly axle shaft (i.e. Revolution Chromoly Axle Shafts) you shouldn't have any issues at all.

A stock Dana 44 front axle, being a hybrid Dana 44 / Dana 30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all Dana 30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and 44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromoly shafts will help. The Dana 44 front axle is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the low pinion Dana 30.


Gears
If you're running 35" tires, you'll undoubtedly want to re-gear. You can expect to pay on average $650 for a set of gears, plus $800 for labor (seems to be the going rate). Once it's all said and done, you'll have spent roughly $1450+ to re-gear. If you don't re-gear, your TJ is going to feel like an absolute dog (especially on a huge tire like 35") to drive (yes, it's really that bad).


Steering
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. My suggestion is upgrading to a Currie Currectlync, which is by far the best bolt-on steering kit available for the TJ. Another option for more budget minded folks is the ZJ tie rod conversion. Either way, if you plan on off-roading, you'll want to upgrade the steering since the size of the 35" tires will definitely add more stress to your steering. To upgrade your steering you'll spend anywhere from $150 to $550 give-or-take.


Brakes
At 35" you'll need to know that your stock brakes simply aren't going to cut it, especially for use on-road. Hands down, the best thing you can do when you run 35" tires is to get the Vanco big brake kit. This is worth every penny. You could also just run Black Magic brake pads, but it's not going to be as good as the big brake kit upgrade. A Vanco big brake kit will run you around $1100 to $1400 depending, but I know that Blaine will give you a deal if you mention you're from the forum. If you'd like to read a real world review of the Vanco big brake kit, check out my thread here: My Review of the Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit


Conclusion
Once it's all said and done, to properly run 35" tires, you're going to easily spend upwards of $7000 (that's not an exaggeration either). Yes, it can be done for much cheaper, there's no arguing that. However, if you do it cheaper, you'll end up in one of those situations where you find yourself wishing you'd done it right the first time.

If all you're after is looks and have no desire to off-road at all, then yeah, you'd be safe doing it on the cheap. However, if you plan on off-roading it at all, save up the money and do it right the first time.
 
Good thread. I agree with the above advice. I went to 35s about 5 years ago, doing so when I upgraded both my front and rear axles. I myself went with a high-pinion Dana 30 for the front and Dana 44 for the rear.

I'd be curious from the experts if installing a Super 35 kit in a Dana 35 is worthwhile from a cost and longevity standpoint. May be an alternative for someone to consider.

Experts, please weigh-in...
 
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Nicely done writeup Chris. One suggestion, not even Dana 44 axle shafts can be said to be "completely up to the task of running 35's". When the axle is locked on a tough trail, 35" tires can exert enough force on the OE Dana 44 shafts to twist them at the splines where they can break.

That's what happened to my previous TJ's rear Dana 44 driver's side OE shaft which is when I upgraded them to alloy shafts. Mine didn't actually break where its splines twisted but the steel at the splines had actually begun to shear all the way around. Luckily that shaft's seal started leaking which is what prompted me to pull the shaft out when the twisted splines were discovered. I have no doubt that shaft would have completely sheared there the next time offroad.
 
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I wasn't sure about that Jerry, but I figured. I am assuming though that you've never had any issues with your alloy shafts in your Dana 44 though?
 
Chris,
So, if I wanted to "eventually" end up with 35" tires...
Can I add the oversized brakes , Currie correctlync to a stock height TJ on 31" tires?
 
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Chris,
So, if I wanted to "eventually" end up with 35" tires...
Can I add the oversized brakes , Currie correctlync to a stock height TJ on 31" tires?

You can certainly add the oversized brakes. I'm running Blaine's Vanco 16" big brake kit with only 33" tires. It might not be necessary with 33" tires, but I LOVE the extra braking capability.

As for the Currie Currectlync on a stock height TJ, this is taken directly from Currie's website:

NOTE: This unit is designed to be used on vehicles with 4" of lift. It can be used on vehicles with less lift, but the vehicle must have a minimum of a 2" bump stop (over stock). Also, on vehicles with no lift, 2 of the tie rod ends may need be trimmed to achieve proper adjustment.
In other words, you'd likely encounter some binding issues if you put the Currectlync steering system on a stock height TJ. It's really meant for a lifted vehicle. It's huge compared to the stock drag link and tie rod, so I could see how it would bind up easily at stock height.
 
Doing anything on a TJ at low lift heights is a special case indeed. The suspension parts world starts at about 3" of lift, anything less than that and you get all sorts of interference with suspension parts banging into stuff it aught not bang into. The order that you plug parts into the TJ is a series of hard choices. I'd go for the least dangerous one's first, even though you may have to deal with a few bad habits.

Personally, I'd do axle, gear and locker upgrades, brakes, suspension lift and steering upgrades, body lift and SYE, tires and wheels, and then armor in that order. There will be times when things aren't perfect with that build order, but it all ends up well in the end.
 
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Nice write up. Doing it the right way takes a good chunk of $$. Most do not seem to understand that thinking that throwing on a 6" lift and 35's is all good. To add to what Jerry wrote; there seems to be a lot of "44 or 8.8" and you are good. Neither are the end all be all axles in stock form. I have seen a bunch of twisted/broken 44 axles. They still need some upgrading, primarily axles, to get them ready for hardcore wheelin with 35's.
 
I agree. Most people just want it to be as easy as throwing on a lift and some 35" tires. Sure, you can do that if it's just a mall crawler. But if you plan on off-roading it, there's quite a bit more that needs to be done (if you want to do it right).

That's what separates the men from the boys though.

I've learned my lesson the hard way. Save up the money and do it right from the start.
 
Thanks Chris for an excellent write up. You have confirmed that I am on the correct course on my project TJ. I look foreword to any other comments from the forum. You have developed an excellent resource.
 
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Thanks Chris for an excellent write up. You have confirmed that I am on the correct course on my project TJ. I look foreword to any other comments from the forum. You have developed an excellent resource.

Thanks Jim, I highly appreciate it. Just looking to give back to the TJ community what it's given to me (which is ownership of the most fun and inspiring vehicle I've ever owned!).
 
I am planning on rear axel / gear upgrade. I have been looking for a salvage rubi axle. Pricing and availability or lack there of have me considering a new bolt in axle with locker and disk brake kit. My questions are who would be a reputable source for this? If I do this, what gear ratio would make sense. This project will never be my daily driver. I will use it primarily for off road parks and weekend fun. Any input ?
 
I am planning on rear axel / gear upgrade. I have been looking for a salvage rubi axle. Pricing and availability or lack there of have me considering a new bolt in axle with locker and disk brake kit. My questions are who would be a reputable source for this? If I do this, what gear ratio would make sense. This project will never be my daily driver. I will use it primarily for off road parks and weekend fun. Any input ?

Is it a manual or an auto?

If I was going to buy a brand new bolt in axle, I would order one from Currie. They have some very nice axles in just about any size you want.
 
If I do this, what gear ratio would make sense. This project will never be my daily driver. I will use it primarily for off road parks and weekend fun. Any input ?
The most appropriate ratio depends on several things Jim... intended use, ultimate tire size you'll be running, which engine you have, and what transmission you're running. For example, you'd need vastly different ratios depending on if you have an automatic vs. manual transmission.
 
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Nice clean looking TJ Jim! If you have the 5-speed manual, I'd go with nothing other than 4.88 for your 35's. If you have the 6-speed, you could get away with 4.56 but I personally would still go with 4.88. I ran the 35"/5-speed/4.0L /4.88 combination for years and it couldn't have been better for both highway and offroading.
 
Yep, I would put 4.88 gears in there and get a brand new axle assembly from Currie. You could get anything from a HP Dana 44 to a Dana 60.
 
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