They are a PITA to get installed. But yes IMO they are the go to shafts if you're running larger tires. With ball joint deletes and RCV's a HP44 should handle 38's-40's no problem... Or at least that is my hope.
98 TJ build log
- Thread starter jhinton088
- Start date
They are a PITA to get installed. But yes IMO they are the go to shafts if you're running larger tires. With ball joint deletes and RCV's a HP44 should handle 38's-40's no problem... Or at least that is my hope.
OP
OP
Hey thanks for following, gives me some motivation to have somewhere to brainstorm and get some good advice. I'm in St Clair shores.
OP
It's been slow going because of the holiday and work but every few days I get about a half hour to go out to the garage. Today I got some shafts pulled and gear oil drained getting ever closer to installing the rear full float kit. Up for grabs if anyone local wants some free stock jk shafts come get em. In the metro Detroit area.
Eagerly awaiting progress pictures! My parts collection is very similar to yours. I'm staying with 5 on 5 1/2 lugs though.
OP
It was a long holiday and the schedule is still booked, but I got some time outside today to work on the rear end.
Two half inch holes on each side for a plug weld. Went to harbor freight to get a reaming bit to debur the inside and it was a touch too small, so I just used a small file the best I could.
No info on this anywhere but with the wide kit the spacer goes on first, unlike the standard kit where the brake backing plate goes first. Pretty beefy chunk of steel.
That's all so far. I still have to burn in the plug welds and put the hubs on but maybe by the end of the weekend I can get both ends. I want to get the hubs on and wheels mounted so I can roll it around instead of having it on jack stands.
I found a local steel place that will sell me dom cheaper then Barnes so after I finish the rear I can get working on getting the front tie rod together.
Two half inch holes on each side for a plug weld. Went to harbor freight to get a reaming bit to debur the inside and it was a touch too small, so I just used a small file the best I could.
No info on this anywhere but with the wide kit the spacer goes on first, unlike the standard kit where the brake backing plate goes first. Pretty beefy chunk of steel.
That's all so far. I still have to burn in the plug welds and put the hubs on but maybe by the end of the weekend I can get both ends. I want to get the hubs on and wheels mounted so I can roll it around instead of having it on jack stands.
I found a local steel place that will sell me dom cheaper then Barnes so after I finish the rear I can get working on getting the front tie rod together.
OP
Finished up both sides haven't welded it yet but I'll get around to it. My welder runs off of a huge extension cord from my kitchen because that's the only place I have a 50 amp outlet... It's cold and I don't feel like moving the stove. Maybe in a few weeks/ months.
Looks like overall the rears at 69 wms so that should be nice when mounting the coilovers, should give me plenty of room. I'll most likely see how a 67.5 front and 69 rear feels before I go putting spacers on the front.
Looks like overall the rears at 69 wms so that should be nice when mounting the coilovers, should give me plenty of room. I'll most likely see how a 67.5 front and 69 rear feels before I go putting spacers on the front.
I need to start looking for a F250 HP44 so I can build myself a new front axle. As has been talked about recently watch you backspacing and how much of a spacer you're running.
Rear is looking good. Wider than I'd like but it's still good looking and an easier way to get a full float axle.
OP
I see em on FB marketplace around me quite often around 300 to 500 and you have all the outer stuff so I'm sure you can pick up a bare housing even cheaper and just get new shafts.
They are a premium out here in the PNW and normally go for $800-1200 and that is needing work. So it's a hard choice between that and a Dana 60.
Back in 2005 I bought my HP44 housing for $75. I'll keep looking and see if I can come across a deal. If not I'll look at other options.
OP
Mounted some tires in the kitchen so I could get the rubber soft enough. 37s look huge, makes me want 40s. I think these tires won't do more then the test stuff and local wheeling/ showing off. What's a good 40? I want Goodyear wranglers but it seems they have been discontinued. What's a tire that can handle driving me to where I wheel. Even if it's 800+ miles away?
As soon as I got em outside I realized I have to buy lug nuts
Got a solid measurement of the final width in the rear.
As soon as I got em outside I realized I have to buy lug nuts
Got a solid measurement of the final width in the rear.
OP
Yeah I just checked FB near me there's a steal on one but it's in Ohio, there's always good shit in Ohio when I look for parts.
Yes.. To get rid of those spacers. Of course once I widen my front then I've got to build a new rear to match.
OP
Not to much progress it's been a ton of ice, snow and cold so I've stayed inside a bit. However I discovered my stock Ford knuckle is drilled for high steer on the wrong side so I'm gonna send in the the other side to wfo to machine and put studs in it.
I have to take them off anyways because I only roughly threw the front axle together to get measurements. I still have to install spindle bearings, I forgot to do that before I put them on. That's the major benifit I see from the old ford axles, the ball joints go in the knuckles not the c's like jks. I'm also going over moving the rear arch back with the stretch so I'm trying to add that into the mix. Unfortunately though it will still be a few months before I can start ripping the jeep apart. After it stops freezing overnight I can clear out my garage and start cutting everything off.