I really like the implementation here, Josh. Very well done....and I'm going to copy you shamelessly (again). 3/8" or 1/2" Al bar stock?
Thanks! I copied Blaine as best I could.
I used 3/8. But I would probably do 1/2" were I do another one to give the rabbets more structure over the existing countersunk bolt holes in the corner armor.
Cole does a very nice job on those. If you want to run a plate light on the tail gate, you can convert the light contacts at the side of the tub to be a 3 wire if needed by grounding through the gate. Only applies if you are running one of the plate lights that has a 3rd brake light. Or you want a small back up light up with the plate light.Earlier this week I learned from Blaine of a very good tailgate skin that is at least as good as the original Savvy design was before it was changed to a one size fits both early and late TJs. I ordered one the next day!
Here is an example of the current Savvy one size fits both, where the holes for the latch and key are cut oversized to fit the different positionings of the early and late tailgate.
View attachment 496822
@sunnysideup_lj is now making specifically cut early and late skins that have no gap around the latch and key.
View attachment 496823
In this design, the key hole is a precise size and location and the latch sits on top of the skin. The result is that no body color is visible other than the outer perimeter.
Here is Savvy on top of SSU to show the hole size differences.
View attachment 496824
And the two skins side by side.
View attachment 496825
I have both at the moment, but will be using the SSU version in the future when the spare tire gets relocated into the bed.
Time to vote! Which do we prefer, the screen or the stupid flaming monkey?
View attachment 497324
Sri wins because I hate the fire monkey logo.
View attachment 497376
Start by deciding what to chop out. Like this monkey, for example.
View attachment 497364
Rough out both sides with a jigsaw, define the corners with a half round file.
View attachment 497381
Use one cutout to refine the other side for size and symmetry.
View attachment 497370
View attachment 497368
Clean up with a flat file and a half round file.
View attachment 497369
Once I receive the matching perforated screen material used on the other vents, this will be the end goal.
View attachment 497375
View attachment 497367
Anyone looking to do the same to be rid of the Crawltek monkey using the same screen used elsewhere on the fenders, look for 0.063" thick x 0.25" hole aluminum perforated sheet with a 0.375 hole center spacing and offset rows.
I agree, Hello Kitty should be an option
Sri wins because I hate the fire monkey logo.
View attachment 497376
Start by deciding what to chop out. Like this monkey, for example.
View attachment 497364
Rough out both sides with a jigsaw, define the corners with a half round file.
View attachment 497381
Use one cutout to refine the other side for size and symmetry.
View attachment 497370
View attachment 497368
Clean up with a flat file and a half round file.
View attachment 497369
Once I receive the matching perforated screen material used on the other vents, this will be the end goal.
View attachment 497375
View attachment 497367
Anyone looking to do the same to be rid of the Crawltek monkey using the same screen used elsewhere on the fenders, look for 0.063" thick x 0.25" hole aluminum perforated sheet with a 0.375 hole center spacing and offset rows.
As long as I can make it with a jigsaw and a file!
Send me a measured trace with hole locations , we can 3d print a hello kitty in mesh and get the best of both worlds.
As long as I can make it with a jigsaw and a file!