98 TJ build log

Picked up a cheap $25.00 endoscope on Amazon and boy was that a bad or maybe good idea because I did not like what I found. Last fall I went around the whole frame with and air chisel and knocked around the whole frame to make sure it was sound. I had no spots through but I there were some spots with visible surface rust. It's been garage kept and never driven in winter yada yada but I do live and Michigan. Just being here forms rust.
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The question is what now, I'm not frame swapping immediately and I really hate the idea of having to safe t cap it but not sure what else to do. I could build frame rails but that seems a bit daunting when it comes to bends/ angles, and mounts.
 
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Mike_H said:
I don't think that looks too bad. Get some rust encapsulator in there and it should be fine.

When you start pulling out chunks that are 1/8" thick and you have to break them up to get em out the frame holes....that's when you worry!
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I sure hope so. I rigged up a drill frame cleaner doohickey but it sucked. I've seen people use like a plumbing snake drill attachment with some chains. Kinda what I made but mine was wimpy. I also have Eastwood internal frame coating but I would't dare spray it inside looking like it does I'd like to scale the rust off some how first or not use it at all. Also have a bunch of cans of fluid film too. I wish I sprayed it with fluid film when I first got it..
 
jhinton088 said:
I sure hope so. I rigged up a drill frame cleaner doohickey but it sucked. I've seen people use like a plumbing snake drill attachment with some chains. Kinda what I made but mine was wimpy. I also have Eastwood internal frame coating but I would't dare spray it inside looking like it does I'd like to scale the rust off some how first or not use it at all. Also have a bunch of cans of fluid film too. I wish I sprayed it with fluid film when I first got it..
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Its really tough to get the frame clean without opening it up.
 
jhinton088 said:
Is that even cheaper then a new used frame? I've heard about that but no idea where I could get that done locally and if not local that's another big bag of worms.
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No idea on the price. Probably a thousand or more in this brave new world for galv. 500-1000$ for a southern or western frame plus shipping?
 
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There are threads about hot dipping frames out there and some special considerations for the dippers to follow.

I bet using a sacrificial zinc anode bolted to the frame like on outboard motors or boats would have some benefit?a cheaper option anyway
 
Rickyd said:
There are threads about hot dipping frames out there and some special considerations for the dippers to follow.

I bet using a sacrificial zinc anode bolted to the frame like on outboard motors or boats would have some benefit?a cheaper option anyway
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Maybe, but the zinc has to be in constant contact with the corrosive medium. Like on a boat, they are always below the water level. For our frames, its only going to work if the salt water is covering the zinc, 100% of the time. If that is happening, I think you'll have bigger problems ;)
 
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Not a whole lot going on still but I finally got my knuckle back from wfo concepts. Ended up grabbing a piece of dom for the tie rod as well. In the next few days/ weeks I'll get some rod ends but not sure what yet. Was thinking of sticking with tre's I've heard they're better if your rig sees the street don't know how true that is.
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jhinton088 said:
Not a whole lot going on still but I finally got my knuckle back from wfo concepts. Ended up grabbing a piece of dom for the tie rod as well. In the next few days/ weeks I'll get some rod ends but not sure what yet. Was thinking of sticking with tre's I've heard they're better if your rig sees the street don't know how true that is.
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Looks good. Wish you were closer as I've got some unused TRE's and inserts for the DOM. Are you going to flip them & do over the knuckle?
 
Wildman said:
Looks good. Wish you were closer as I've got some unused TRE's and inserts for the DOM. Are you going to flip them & do over the knuckle?
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I am, which is why I was thinking flipping and reaming out for an insert and doing gm tie rod ends. I can't even find Ford tre builders parts most are gm or heims.
 
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jhinton088 said:
I am, which is why I was thinking flipping and reaming out for an insert and doing gm tie rod ends. I can't even find Ford tre builders parts most are gm or heims.
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The ones I have are GM 1 ton TRE's.

Since mine is mainly a trail rig I went with heims this time & have aluminum tie rod & drag link made by Wide Open Design.

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jhinton088 said:
what knuckles are you running?
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Chevy right now with Bonefish ball joint eliminators. But have Reid Racing knuckles that will be going on when I install American Iron BJE's.
I'm also running Chevy small bearing spindles and Ford rotors.
 
Wildman said:
Chevy right now with Bonefish ball joint eliminators. But have Reid Racing knuckles that will be going on when I install American Iron BJE's.
I'm also running Chevy small bearing spindles and Ford rotors.
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I'm hoping I can keep straight tre's instead of offsetting them so I don't hit the diff it's looking tight for me.
 
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Got some ball joints from Barnes. Have quite a bit of space I may have been able to go with straight link but this should work.
Not sure if I'm gonna mount over the knuckle or keep it under. If I keep it under I can just ream the hole instead of drilling it out and putting inserts in. From here I'll probably tack the ends on and start some work on the jeep soon. I have a body lift, mml, and cable shifter to get on. One day at a time.

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Sloooww going! Haven't done much of anything lately but next weekend I should be able to get my body lift and motor mount lift on. Spent the day cleaning the garage and getting it ready to park my jeep in for a few months.
Rolled the axle behind the jeep just for some more perspective. Gonna be wideee!
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