I was wondering when you'd get this installed. Looks great and you'll be very happy with how it performs both on and offroad!
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
I was wondering when you'd get this installed. Looks great and you'll be very happy with how it performs both on and offroad!
So far, on road only, I really can't tell I made a change. The LJ has always handled pretty well, for what it is, and it still does. I'm looking forward to getting offroad and flipping that little lever.
I outboarded my front and rear shocks over the past two (very long) weekends with Fox 2.0 11" and 12" shocks from @pcoplin. The project ended up being more work than I had anticipated, even though I knew it would be a lot of work.
I'm happy with how the rears turned out. I'm sitting right at 6" up and 6" down at ride height. Once the bumps engage, there is just over an inch of shock shaft left. Once I replace my exhaust, I'll have a bit more room for uptravel, and I will trim back the Currie bump stops a bit. There is still plenty of room between the top of the Savvy mid-arm truss and the tub.
On the front shock outboard project, I wound up cutting the towers about 1/2" shorter than I would have liked. I was using the total compressed length of the shock plus 1/2" to determine the tower height with the weight of the Jeep sitting on the bump stops. With this method, there isn't much shock shaft past the bumper, showing when hitting the bump stops straight on, and the shock shaft bumper hits about the same time as the main bump stops at full articulation. I have some new lower control arm brackets from Clayton Off Road sitting on the bench, so at some point in the future, I'll probably cut off the front lower shock mounts and control arm brackets and then lower the front shock mount 1/2"-3/4" with a custom brace. This should give me back the final 1/2" of up-travel I'm missing in the Currie bump stop compression range.
The original shock setup was on the front with Rancho RS5000Xs. The Rancho's would bottom out before the bump stops engaged leading to hard bottoming once the shocks got hot on the trails and lost most of their dampening.
The front shock tower has been removed.
Front tower tacked into place.
The front tower and lower shock mount burned in.
That's a lot of droop!
The front was all finished two weekends ago.
This is the moment when you are committed!
My ride height mock stick in place with the full-length tower prior to being cut down.
Shock towers are cut down, slotted, and shaped.
The rear towers burned in. I sanded the slotted weld across that ran near the top of the frame weld. The bottom arches are not technically needed as the shocks weren't touching at full articulation, but they were close enough that I removed some material to help me sleep better at night.
The upward arch in my exhaust just contacts the upper control arm when the vehicle weight is resting on the bumps. My muffler is due for a replacement soon, so I'll route the exhaust up higher and then trim off a 1/2" or so from the bottom bump stop to give a touch more uptravel.
Since I don't have a track bar, I was able to move the bottom mounts inward a bit to keep them off the tires at full articulation and lower tire pressure. My original location was out against the friction weld grooves, which would rub the tires at full articulation.
The ride is great on the road and when running off the curb in my side lot. Now they need some trail time!
I'm happy with how the rears turned out. I'm sitting right at 6" up and 6" down at ride height. Once the bumps engage, there is just over an inch of shock shaft left. Once I replace my exhaust, I'll have a bit more room for uptravel, and I will trim back the Currie bump stops a bit. There is still plenty of room between the top of the Savvy mid-arm truss and the tub.
On the front shock outboard project, I wound up cutting the towers about 1/2" shorter than I would have liked. I was using the total compressed length of the shock plus 1/2" to determine the tower height with the weight of the Jeep sitting on the bump stops. With this method, there isn't much shock shaft past the bumper, showing when hitting the bump stops straight on, and the shock shaft bumper hits about the same time as the main bump stops at full articulation. I have some new lower control arm brackets from Clayton Off Road sitting on the bench, so at some point in the future, I'll probably cut off the front lower shock mounts and control arm brackets and then lower the front shock mount 1/2"-3/4" with a custom brace. This should give me back the final 1/2" of up-travel I'm missing in the Currie bump stop compression range.
The original shock setup was on the front with Rancho RS5000Xs. The Rancho's would bottom out before the bump stops engaged leading to hard bottoming once the shocks got hot on the trails and lost most of their dampening.
The front shock tower has been removed.
Front tower tacked into place.
The front tower and lower shock mount burned in.
That's a lot of droop!
The front was all finished two weekends ago.
This is the moment when you are committed!
My ride height mock stick in place with the full-length tower prior to being cut down.
Shock towers are cut down, slotted, and shaped.
The rear towers burned in. I sanded the slotted weld across that ran near the top of the frame weld. The bottom arches are not technically needed as the shocks weren't touching at full articulation, but they were close enough that I removed some material to help me sleep better at night.
The upward arch in my exhaust just contacts the upper control arm when the vehicle weight is resting on the bumps. My muffler is due for a replacement soon, so I'll route the exhaust up higher and then trim off a 1/2" or so from the bottom bump stop to give a touch more uptravel.
Since I don't have a track bar, I was able to move the bottom mounts inward a bit to keep them off the tires at full articulation and lower tire pressure. My original location was out against the friction weld grooves, which would rub the tires at full articulation.
The ride is great on the road and when running off the curb in my side lot. Now they need some trail time!
Well, my buddy bought a 2019 JLU and offered me his TJ for the dealer trade in offer. My wife and I decided to by it for our son. He is happy.
Would you look at that hood! Just look at it!!
Slip yoke status: Eliminated
Ass status: Freezing
All thats left is 1.getting new bolts for the front driveshaft (PO stripped them apparently and put them back in anyway so I had to bolt extract 2 of them, may both sides of their pillow always be warm) and 2.calling Tom Woods in the morning to order my new rear DS. Oh and a safety thimble and some soft shackles arrived from Mr. Blaine, ready to ditch the absolute boat anchor of a hook currently on my winch.
Ass status: Freezing
All thats left is 1.getting new bolts for the front driveshaft (PO stripped them apparently and put them back in anyway so I had to bolt extract 2 of them, may both sides of their pillow always be warm) and 2.calling Tom Woods in the morning to order my new rear DS. Oh and a safety thimble and some soft shackles arrived from Mr. Blaine, ready to ditch the absolute boat anchor of a hook currently on my winch.
Replaced stock lower CA's with Clayton Off-road adjustable arms, ordered a new front drive shaft from Tom Woods, and repaired my wobbly accelerator pedal!
Absolutely. The pedal arm had slipped off of the splines of the shaft, and was riding on the smooth portion at the end, which introduced significant lateral play. I removed the pedal assembly and tapped the pedal arm back onto the splined portion of the shaft, and reinstalled. Honestly I'm surprised it slipped off... It's a pretty tight fit once I tapped it back on, but I'll keep an eye on it and add some sort of retainer if it appears to be working it's way off again!
Before and after:
Before and after:
Finished wiring the amps and sub. Cleaned up all the wiring under the dash too, it was a mess.Moved my ARB switch for tires under the seat too. Trying to eliminate switches.
My RMS stopped leaking after nearly 8 years. I was surprised and will see how long it lasts. I did a couple of things recently when I changed the oil with the conventional high mileage stuff. 
My RMS stopped leaking after nearly 8 years. I was surprised and will see how long it lasts. I did a couple of things recently when I changed the oil with the conventional high mileage stuff.
Penzoil high mileage stopped my RMS leak. I’m sure of it.
I couldn't find the Pennzoil high mileage locally, so I bought STP.
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I’ve also used the Valvoline high mileage when needed. The Penzoil is sold through Home Depot locally. I order it online for in store pickup. I believe I’ve been paying <$25 for the 5 quart jug.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennzoi...etic-Blend-Motor-Oil-5-Qt-550045217/300646432
I'll check out Home Depot for it. We don't have one here, but the nearest one is only 30 miles away. I drive around a lot.
My RMS stopped leaking after nearly 8 years. I was surprised and will see how long it lasts. I did a couple of things recently when I changed the oil with the conventional high mileage stuff.
So you finally leaked all the oil out and it only took 8 years!!!! That's one way to get it to stop leaking
I got home today to an envelope on the counter. It was from a Wizard in California!!!!!
It held a surprise for my wife and myself.........
A Hello Kitty sticker (stickers) for her and a Wizard and WRG for me. Plus another couple of chapsticks for me since she claimed the others.
Thanks @mrblaine !!!!!
It held a surprise for my wife and myself.........
A Hello Kitty sticker (stickers) for her and a Wizard and WRG for me. Plus another couple of chapsticks for me since she claimed the others.
Thanks @mrblaine !!!!!
So you finally leaked all the oil out and it only took 8 years!!!! That's one way to get it to stop leaking
… I was thinking the same thing…
700 capillaries torn and 1300 “hey dad”’s later, they’re on.
