Tummy tuck What transfer case skid do you use

Make sure to take pics. I am looking into the Gen Right myself. I am curious if a 1/2" or so pad of rubber could be placed between the mounting pad on the cross member and transfer case?? Should help with transmission of engine vibration.
I was not able to get the pics of the TMR crossmember today.
I did pick up engine vibration to the frame at idle.
Will be experimenting with solutions, I have 1/2 of vibration dampening rubber in between the transmission and the crossmember. It improved it but some still exists.
I am wondering if a softer bushing at the frame mount might help.
I kept the mount that was removed, might try to rework the crossmember to include it.
 
The UCF Lowpro mount uses a small round bushing to isolate vibes, which isn't enough. As a result, you'll get some added vibes at idle. Might be less with the 4 cyl. I ran one for a few years and got used to it. Currently running a Barnes skid and stock trans mount.
 
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I ended up purchasing a ucf ultra clearance skid,since the savvy early was no longer available. Now I’m saving for a JB SS hoping I can install it all. If I chicken out I hope Blaine not to busy and can bail me out !
 
For those that requested pics of the TMR crossmember.
The plate is 1/4”.
I had made repairs to the bottom of the frame and used weld nuts, they protrude 1/4”.
So I have 1/2” drop from the frame.
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After ordering my UCF extra clearance aluminum skid on cyber Monday, I finally just got the email that it’s been shipped. Only took 3 weeks...😒
 
After ordering my UCF extra clearance aluminum skid on cyber Monday, I finally just got the email that it’s been shipped. Only took 3 weeks...😒
They must have sold a lot of them because it was a very good price. I had ordered during a previous sale and while it was shipped right away I paid more.
 
They must have sold a lot of them because it was a very good price. I had ordered during a previous sale and while it was shipped right away I paid more.
When I called to see what was going on, the guy Matt said he had an emergency surgery. But its scheduled to be delivered Friday.
 
I did this years ago after not finding any info on anybody else with my combo, so I can at least post this so it might come up in a search.

I have the Under Cover Fabworks (UCF) ultra high clearance (UHC) skid on my 05 Rubicon. I used their lopro mount, a 1.25" body lift, and 1" Brown Dog MML. The NVG241OR cleared by just millimeters, but with the 6 speed I just had to smack the tub right behind the bellhousing a bit with a bfh.
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I also went with the poly Brown Dog mounts. Yes, the Jeeps vibrates like crazy. The driver feedback is also excellent. To each their own, It's a Jeep.
 
I have the ultra high clearance UCF skid and I used the stock transmission mount. No additional vibes at idle:
View attachment 130108
The drop is about 1.25” from the frame rails. Only modification I needed to do was the exhaust system. I love mine and Savvy wasn’t an option since I have a 2.5L.

Hello, I'd like to do the same thing to my stock 2.5L that only has a 1" MML and 1.25 BL (no suspension lift currently or planned). This thing is going to stay on 31's so am looking for the most bolt on skid to get a few inches without major modifications. Were you able to install the ultra high clearance skid without new driveshafts on yours?
 
Hello, I'd like to do the same thing to my stock 2.5L that only has a 1" MML and 1.25 BL (no suspension lift currently or planned). This thing is going to stay on 31's so am looking for the most bolt on skid to get a few inches without major modifications. Were you able to install the ultra high clearance skid without new driveshafts on yours?

You’ll be seeing too much lift at the transfer case to get away with a stock rear driveshaft. You’ll need an SYE, DC, and adjustable rear control arms.
 
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You’ll be seeing too much lift at the transfer case to get away with a stock rear driveshaft. You’ll need an SYE, DC, and adjustable rear control arms.

Thanks for the response. I was thinking along the lines of what you said , but in post 39 someone did this and “Only modification I needed to do was the exhaust system.”

That’s said, someone at UCF responded to my inquiry today and thinks I’ll “be fine with the ultra high clearance. Shouldn’t have any trouble with the driveshaft as long as you don’t do much suspension lift later on.”

Edit: Perhaps I should assume the parts may all bolt up and clear without the sye, dc, and control arms, but will wear out other parts, after some moderate use due to the angles being too far off ?
 
Thanks for the response. I was thinking along the lines of what you said , but in post 39 someone did this and “Only modification I needed to do was the exhaust system.”

That’s said, someone at UCF responded to my inquiry today and thinks I’ll “be fine with the ultra high clearance. Shouldn’t have any trouble with the driveshaft as long as you don’t do much suspension lift later on.”

Perhaps I’ll have to assume it’s not really going to work right and will truly need all of the parts mentioned above in order to work reliably for a long time..
If it doesn’t work (and you get vibes), then you can always add some washers under the skid till you plot your demise and take the plunge for the other items.

The usual absolute max lift at the TCase for avoiding vibes (on a TJ. LJ different) is 3”, but usually people experience vibes at 2-2.5”.
 
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Thanks for the response. I was thinking along the lines of what you said , but in post 39 someone did this and “Only modification I needed to do was the exhaust system.”

That’s said, someone at UCF responded to my inquiry today and thinks I’ll “be fine with the ultra high clearance. Shouldn’t have any trouble with the driveshaft as long as you don’t do much suspension lift later on.”

Edit: Perhaps I should assume the parts may all bolt up and clear without the sye, dc, and control arms, but will wear out other parts, after some moderate use due to the angles being too far off ?

Also, take a close look at the pics in post #39. He’s got adjustable rear control arms and a DC shaft. You can see the pinion rotated up substantially too.
 
If it doesn’t work (and you get vibes), then you can always add some washers under the skid till you plot your demise and take the plunge for the other items.

The usual absolute max lift at the TCase for avoiding vibes (on a TJ. LJ different) is 3”, but usually people experience vibes at 2-2.5”.
plot my demise is a great way to put that. Speaking of plotting my demise there is also an LJ in the mix here; given the longer wheelbase on the LJ, does the 2-2.5” you mentioned increase? (Or decrease) thanks
 
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Also, take a close look at the pics in post #39. He’s got adjustable rear control arms and a DC shaft. You can see the pinion rotated up substantially too.

Got it OK so there are more modifications that I haven’t yet learned to identify, but will undoubtedly learn through experience. Time to reread the tummy tuck faq and make a plan.
 
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plot my demise is a great way to put that. Speaking of plotting my demise there is also an LJ in the mix here; given the longer wheelbase on the LJ, does the 2-2.5” you mentioned increase? (Or decrease) thanks

An LJ can see up to ~4” of lift (either suspension or at the TCase due to a TT) and avoid vibes. Every rig is a bit different, so it’s a gray area.
 
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Thanks for the response. I was thinking along the lines of what you said , but in post 39 someone did this and “Only modification I needed to do was the exhaust system.”

That’s said, someone at UCF responded to my inquiry today and thinks I’ll “be fine with the ultra high clearance. Shouldn’t have any trouble with the driveshaft as long as you don’t do much suspension lift later on.”

Edit: Perhaps I should assume the parts may all bolt up and clear without the sye, dc, and control arms, but will wear out other parts, after some moderate use due to the angles being too far off ?

Unless they had a stock jeep you should assume they had sye,etc as a normal part of a lifted jeep
 
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@Musician235

The yellow arrow is pointing at the lower control arm. You can tell it narrows. That’s where the threads are that thread into the arm TJ make adjustments.

The red line is following the angle of the rear driveshaft, which has to be a DC to function properly at that angle.

IMG_3096.jpeg
 
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