Help me understand LJ sliders

ItchyDong

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I’ve read and read about sliders. I’ve patiently waited for what seems like an eternity for savvy sliders to come back in stock. I love the understated look of them without the enormous step built into them. I understand that body mount mounted sliders are a no no, but I don’t understand why.

I like the look of the motobuilt rocker guards. But they mount to the body mounts. This Jeep is a pavement princess daily driver with some light trail riding a few times a year. I like the idea of giving motobuilt some business being that they’re local. For those reasons, is it still stupid to go the body mounted route? And if it is ok, I have Blaine’s body lift installed. Is it true that I’ll have to modify those spacers somehow?
 
.... I understand that body mount mounted sliders are a no no, but I don’t understand why.


..., is it still stupid to go the body mounted route? And if it is ok, I have Blaine’s body lift installed. Is it true that I’ll have to modify those spacers somehow?

Do you understand why Blaine's body lift is a correctly designed body lift compared to the JKS body lift? The reasoning is the same for why rock sliders should have no interaction with the body mounts. It has everything to do with bolt torque and proper clamping force.
 
Does the preferred method of installation have you running bolts through the floor through spacers to the rocker guard?
 
Does the preferred method of installation have you running bolts through the floor through spacers to the rocker guard?

Typically, the well designed sliders are attached underneath to the torque boxes using nutserts and bolts. Nothing passes up into the floor where your feet live.
 
Is this the torque box? Couldn’t I cut out the body mount slot to where it just wrapped around the puck and attach it with a rivnut to the torque box?

image.jpg
 
If you don’t plan on ever actually using them. I’d probably just go with whatever you like the looks of the most.

What is your plan to avoid using the body mounts as a method of attachment? 🤫
 
Yes


That is a preferable method than using the body mount is. And likely less work.

Thanks. I’ll play with that. Any brand or specs to look out for when I’m buying rivnuts? Is there such a thing as “grade 8” or equivalent rivnut?
 
Thanks. I’ll play with that. Any brand or specs to look out for when I’m buying rivnuts? Is there such a thing as “grade 8” or equivalent rivnut?

All I know is to buy rivnuts with a grip range that is appropriate for the material thickness you are attaching them to.

If you search around here, you will also find discussion of using a Rotabroach to drill the holes into the torque box. It isn't necessary, but it is easier and more accurate when done correctly.
 
I understand that body mount mounted sliders are a no no, but I don’t understand why.
Tub/body mounted sliders, which are bolted directly to the rockers like Savvy's are, are by far the strongest and most protective way to go. Frame mounted sliders require two spindly mounting brackets that connect between them and the frame and they flex and move around and don't protect the tub nearly as well as tub mounted sliders do.
 
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All I know is to buy rivnuts with a grip range that is appropriate for the material thickness you are attaching them to.

If you search around here, you will also find discussion of using a Rotabroach to drill the holes into the torque box. It isn't necessary, but it is easier and more accurate when done correctly.

Or you could watch @hosejockey61 video on youtube about using the rotabroach and how it helped install mini boat sides
 
Tub/body mounted sliders like Savvy's are, by far, the stronger and more protective way to go. Frame mounted sliders require two spindly mounting brackets that connect between them and the frame and they flex and move around and don't protect the tub nearly as well as tub mounted sliders do.

He isn't asking about frame mounted sliders.
 
Or you could watch @hosejockey61 video on youtube about using the rotabroach and how it helped install mini boat sides

Then itchy needs to skip ahead to the set that is drilled on the bench. It is important to use the sliders as the template for the Rotabroach going directly into the body and skip all the pilot hole and locating pin stuff.
 
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What is your plan to avoid using the body mounts as a method of attachment? 🤫

Why avoid it if he never plans on off-road use that would never hit them?
I’m not trying to be a smartass I’m curious.

I have body mount sliders and hit a rock so hard it bend the tube that was sticking out. I can’t tell that it did any damage other than that. I might end up with the correctly mounted sliders at some point.
 
Why avoid it if he never plans on off-road use that would never hit them?
I’m not trying to be a smartass I’m curious.

I have body mount sliders and hit a rock so hard it bend the tube that was sticking out. I can’t tell that it did any damage other than that. I might end up with the correctly mounted sliders at some point.

Go back to post #2 where we bring up bolt torque and clamping force. The bottom line is that these types of sliders prevent the body from being properly attached to the frame. What you are effectively suggesting is that we loosen bolts for the purposes of convenience and leave them loose. Additionally, the body mounts end up being unevenly loaded across the frame. This will eventually lead to squeaks and cracked spot welds.

It shouldn't matter if these sliders are being dragged through the rocks or not. The entire premise of a poorly engineered installation should be enough to make one avoid it purely from an understanding of how things work.
 
This Jeep is a pavement princess daily driver with some light trail riding a few times a year. I like the idea of giving motobuilt some business being that they’re local.
Then buy them. I bought some China sliders several Jeeps ago. I just needed them to protect my Jeep when going over downed trees. Worked fine for my needs.
SLIDERS.jpg
 
Go back to post #2 where we bring up bolt torque and clamping force. The bottom line is that these types of sliders prevent the body from being properly attached to the frame. What you are effectively suggesting is that we loosen bolts for the purposes of convenience and leave them loose. Additionally, the body mounts end up being unevenly loaded across the frame. This will eventually lead to squeaks and cracked spot welds.

It shouldn't matter if these sliders are being dragged through the rocks or not. The entire premise of a poorly engineered installation should be enough to make one avoid it purely from an understanding of how things work.

I went back and read post #2, but it didn't really explain anything. I also don't understand your comment about effectively loosening the bolts and leaving them loose. With all due respect to the expertise present in this thread, very little has been stated to explain WHY body mount sliders are bad. I've had these same questions, so I'll proxy for itchy here. Maybe a little ELI5 is in order.