Have you driven a jeep on big tires that runs a brake system that Blaine designed and installed?
Brake Job
- Thread starter dtroth91
- Start date
Have you driven a jeep on big tires that runs a brake system that Blaine designed and installed?
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
I did not mean to imply lube was not needed.
Only that the pin itself does not need it (as some would believe).
Why would I care?? Im not a sales man promoting
Hundreds of reviews from unbiased sales sites say otherwise
View attachment 510974
Regular pads up top, HD towing pads on bottom
View attachment 510975
I see customers of all products with less then stellar reviews including some BMB customers here. Will you say theyve all been perfect??
They have not
Varying people dont all have the same skillset, truck, condition brake systems, e
Ive read the BMB buyers were told they “didnt seat them correctly” or other various reasons which are plausible. Fair assessments
This goes for all products, and to date Ive yet to see anyones quantifiable performance results to compare outside of “we cant do it because XYZ”
My personal experiences were fantastic results
…..and my brake fluid wasnt fully bled and replaced.
I have no ill will towards your product at all. Im sure you have a good product, but the +400% pad cost isnt quantified for me as a buyer. To each their own
For what it's worth, and I don't want to hijack the thread whatsoever (so hopefully it's helpful), I bought a set of front ceramic pads from a parts store for $40. Power Stop's set of pads is roughly $30-$45. The 7-8 year old previous pads were fine stopped fine, no noise whatsoever. Spacers were seized to hubs, so I needed hubs and rotors. I replaced the hubs and rotors, and decided a whole brake job minus calipers (brake fluid was clean and they currently work fine). But after new pads, rotors, greased pins and knuckle guides, and 5000 miles or so, those new pads are pretty damn noisy. Not the first AutoZone set I've had this issue with. Same thing happened with my 2014 VW CC and the piss poor pads. IIRC, my 1990 silverado I sold a couple years ago had the same Duralast (Dontlast) branded pads, and also had a bit of a squeak from time to time. It had new rotors, and calipers that I personally greased the guide pins on.
The AutoZone pads currently sit at 4.9 stars despite being, in my opinion, pretty garbage for what is 2 hours of my time at work. I'd take reviews with a grain of salt. I'm glad it's worked out for you for sure, but that doesn't mean there isn't a QC issue with cheap brake parts manufacturers. If I ever have to do a front brake job again on my TJ, it'll be with Blaine and BMB. OP, take it from me. You get what you pay for. If you don't want them to squeak, don't cheap out.
Last edited:
I don't like to sell calipers, I do but I would rather not. But if I did, I'd be fully impressed with Power Stop and their crap powder coated calipers. These are less than a year old in Socal.
And since our "expert" doesn't believe you should flush the fluid at the recommended intervals, this is what happens when you don't and also why even flushing won't always prevent them from sticking.
I seriously don’t get how people think they can use their arrogance to overcome people that do this for a living.
The last thing I want to do is spend $300 on an Amazon brake kit just for the calipers to flake off 20 minutes later.
Welcome to my life. I get to deal with all the "experts" that have dealt with a single example and are completely cluesless that an entirely different world exists they have yet to experience. The worst part is no matter how you explain it or what examples you use, they'll be right back with their expert bullshit. There is little in this world that is more sad than willful ignorance combined with arrogance.
Is flushing time or mileage based? I had my system flushed when I had my BMB pads/rotors and new calipers installed 10/2021 but its only been 6k miles.
I'd use time since the fluid is still getting oxidized and absorbing small amounts of moisture. Anything every 2-3 years has to be better than the once or twice most of these have seen since they were new.
That's the general world of a small business owner. I get to run through that scenario too often when a certain customer doesn't hear what they want to hear, even though it's my professional opinion they solicited. It's not everybody, but a solid 10% of customers can waste 90% of my time.
Last edited:
I referenced the guide as a pin. Just lazy terminology from me early on. I said something like "clean and lube the pins and slides".
Exactly. I know my way around a car but my TJ is my first Jeep. The last thing I'm doing is trying to explain to Jerry, Mark (I believe his name is Mark...) at Wranglerfix, or you about how you have no grasp on what's good and what's bad for a vehicle when it's quite literally what you guys do for a living.
Post #24 is Exhibit A. Also, why don't you like selling calipers? Expensive to make?
No, the market is very competitive, folks want to save a few pennies here and there and I tie up a lot of money to find good parts and then I still have to go through them, make sure the guides are good and correct, make sure the pistons are not damaged, and then pull the bleed screws to make sure the bleed hole isn't crushed. After that, I make sure the hardware is there, matches, both bleed screws are the same size and one isn't 10mm hex and the other 3/8" hex. I have bins of parts I swap in and out to get them to be how they should be if I were to use and install them. It is just a time suck to ensure that the customer gets something I would install and use.
I can't compete on price, but I will talk on the phone with you and explain how and why I fucked something up and fix it.
Got it. To clarify, the pad driven styles with a separate saddle do generally have pins. The TJ is just a bit odd that it still runs guide sleeves.
