Rear Axle Adjustment And Drive Shaft Angles

cpwolf

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So I got a Woody , traded emails with @Shawn at Tom Wood's and now have front and rear DC on my TJ and a rear DC on my CJ5.

My TJ I finally got time to make some rear axle adjustments getting ready to do a Bl, MML and Savvy Under Armor Up skid.

The axle is exactly square now, was off a 1/4” or so, didn’t really notice. But it’s on now.


I’m a little concerned with 2 things, first the distance of thread I can go in the Savvy upper CAs and second the amount of spline showing on the DC.

I believe the wheel is centered well, and still on bump well. The angles are 14.6 Drive Shaft and 13.2 pinion. So a 1.4 degree difference. I may bring back to lowers to get to 1, but 1.4 should be fine. Ram it with no front DS and was on the freeway at 75 smooth and 80 here and there. Good to go.

I’m a little concerned with the drive shaft. I may have gotten too short, and now with the Savvy skid just not sure. Looking for advice on anyone that has Savvy CA’s on the actual distance we can let them out? Do I need to pull one, get exact measurements and a % has to be in the arm? Certain % thread showing? Or are they uniform and do we know the exact thread measurement that can be showing ?

Thanks a ton


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I’m also concerned because needed to grease the front CV and when I put it back I know I need to adjust the Caster/ Pinion some, and the front Uppers are out already. So need to know the limits on uppers.
 
Not sure which exact stub shaft @Shawn at Tom Wood's is currently using but I do not think you are too off on it. From you pics though I think you might want to bring tha axle forward just a touch to make sure you are not having interference issues at full stuff. That would also alleviate both your driveshaft and control arm concerns as well.
 
Not sure which exact stub shaft @Shawn at Tom Wood's is currently using but I do not think you are too off on it. From you pics though I think you might want to bring tha axle forward just a touch to make sure you are not having interference issues at full stuff. That would also alleviate both your driveshaft and control arm concerns as well.

Was thinking that. Last one graduated, will get her off to Texas and be able to have more time to get this done. I’ll probably move a touch forward, and it’ll be good for the Savvy Armor then I’ll cycle em. Thanks.
 
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@Shawn at Tom Wood's, I have a related question. I bought a lightly used front Tom Wood's driveshaft, and it's 2" too short. Can these be lengthened, by you or locally, and is it worth the price? Ballpark price (plus shipping, of course)?
 
@Shawn at Tom Wood's, I have a related question. I bought a lightly used front Tom Wood's driveshaft, and it's 2" too short. Can these be lengthened, by you or locally, and is it worth the price? Ballpark price (plus shipping, of course)?

We charge just $70 to lengthen and re-balance one of our shafts. This is only a service we provide for a Tom Wood's shaft but you don't need proof of purchase, we can tell it's one of our shafts by looking at it. We can even help you save on shipping it to us, we can provide you a shipping label at a discounted rate, probably about $30 from Colorado. If you'd like to get a label from us call us at 801-737-0757. Otherwise, you can just ship it to the address on the contact us page on our website. Include a note with your name and phone number when shipping to us.
 
Made adjustments.

I think this will be good.

Pinion is .4 below the drive shaft angle.

The slip yoke is in the good range not on the outside.

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Shawn - Just curious - what determines how far up on the spline you run the blue coating? I noticed on the big shaft you just rebuilt for me that fully compressing the shaft puts the sleeve past the end of the coating.

Random odds and the whims of the spline manufacturer determine the length of the blue coating. Depending on the manufacturer they either dip or spray the blue nylon coating on the spline. Neither of which are exact processes and there is not a universal agreed upon length to begin with.
 
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