What gear ratio should I run and what all should I upgrade?

DeLoe5

DeLoe5

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Joined
Jun 13, 2024
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16
Location
El Centro, California
Hey everyone!

I have a 2002 TJ with the 2.5 in it. My dad bought this Jeep when I was 5 and I am looking to fix it up as I have started my career and can start having some real fun with this! I do use my jeep as a daily driver (maybe 10 miles a day since I work close to home). I am waiting on a Rough Country 4 inch X Series Long Arm Kit, SYE, and CV Driveshaft to be installed. I'd do it myself but lack the tools and time as I have a one-year old and live in an apartment. Everything else will be stock, including my axles and gear ratio. I have been running 31's on a Rubicon Express 2.5 inch lift that was done 15+ years ago. I remember helping my dad and our friend install it. I have had no issues with the gearing, being that I do not get on the freeway often. I live in El Centro, Ca and it is flat enough that I can use 5th gear with no power issues as of now. The suspension is starting to go after all these years, so this is why I am replacing pretty much the whole thing.

I know that moving up to the 4 inch lift and 33's or 35's will cause me to regear. The questions I have are what size tires should I run? (I am leaning toward 33's with the 4 banger). I've milked some power out of it with an air intake, throttle body spacer, and catback exhaust. I know its not a big difference but I've had no issues with the 31's and my dad even ran 33's at one point. Should I regear to 4.88 with 33's or 35's? Finally, what would be next after regearing and sizing up the tires?

I have a new account on here but have done a lot of reading over the years that has helped me tremendously with the smaller upgrades on my jeep. I know the 4 banger isn't everyone's first choice but I love my jeep and have had a lot of fun growing up with it. I'll attach some photos as well!

Thanks!

Oldest Photo of Jeep.JPG


Jeep Flex.JPG


Front from below.JPG


Low angle.JPG


Off road 2.jpeg


Uphill.jpg


Off road.jpg
 
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It's your first post here, and maybe other Jeep sites also including random groups of FB.

I'm not being paid nor am I part owner of this place but you're definately in the place to get the best answers. I say the best because they're generally based in reality and on experiences.

As for the 2.5L, it is what it is but if you're used to it, ignore any hate.
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
It's your first post here, and maybe other Jeep sites also including random groups of FB.

I'm not being paid nor am I part owner of this place but you're definately in the place to get the best answers. I say the best because they're generally based in reality and on experiences.

As for the 2.5L, it is what it is but if you're used to it, ignore any hate.
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I agree!
 
DeLoe5 said:
I was torn between the 5.13 and 4.88 gears. Is it a huge difference? I typically don't need to go anywhere faster than 60mph.
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It’s not a huge difference, like 5%. It’s just a bit more help that the 2.5 benefits from.

Keep in mind a lot of people with the 4.0 would choose 4.88 for 33’s. The transmissions between 4.0 and 2.5 don’t have identical gearing but it’s close. The 2.5 has a lower 5th which helps the smaller motor a bit more. Still, I say 5.13.
 
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JMT said:
513 and short arm lift. You shouldn’t lock a Dana 35 without going to a Super 35.
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Thanks for sharing! I have the long arm lift coming in and am committed so I'm going to see how I like that for a good while. I'm leaning towards the 513 regear and will look into the Super 35 before the lockers.
 
DeLoe5 said:
Thanks for sharing! I have the long arm lift coming in and am committed so I'm going to see how I like that for a good while. I'm leaning towards the 513 regear and will look into the Super 35 before the lockers.
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Super 35 requires a locker because it upsizes the quantity of axle shaft splines. I’d also recommend short arm lift and not rough country.
 
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Rough country is crap. Their springs sag fast,their flex joints wear out quick from street use and their shocks ride "rough".

This is my experience with rough country and other peoples. You'll wind up swapping out all their junk as it breaks.

Tell the shop "oops I'm sorry" and return all that junk
 
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Their track bars are poorly designed and bend/come loose.they put drop pitman arms in their kits that will do messed up things to your steering.

Never in a million years drop a rough country kit off at a shop and pay your hard earned dollars to have your jeep messed up. It is an extremely sour feeling.
 
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Ditch the rough country stuff. Bad design and quality. The springs are short and stiff which doesn’t help with our light 4cyl tj. Don’t go long arm that’s a whole separate topic but a good short arm will do well. Their joints are also trash, had some of their short arms on my jeep and the joints blew out in less than 6 months. I swapped them for savvy control arms with Johnny joints and they’re on year 4 without an issue with daily driving them in snow to cross country trips.

4.88 or 5.13 gears on 33s will be fine either way but I’d lean towards more gearing. I found a Dana 30/44 set with arbs and 4.56 gears for 2k so I went that route since it was by far the cheapest way to get a regear and lockers under the jeep even though it’s no the ideal gearing, it’s noticeable over the 4.11 gears that were stock. With 33s and 4.56 I can hold 75 on flat 5k elevation which is ok out here in Idaho but in Maryland with 55 being the fastest speed limit around I never even had an issue with the 4.11s but havnt been back east since the new gears.
 
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DeLoe5 said:
Hey everyone!

I have a 2002 TJ with the 2.5 in it. My dad bought this Jeep when I was 5 and I am looking to fix it up as I have started my career and can start having some real fun with this! I do use my jeep as a daily driver (maybe 10 miles a day since I work close to home). I am waiting on a Rough Country 4 inch X Series Long Arm Kit, SYE, and CV Driveshaft to be installed. I'd do it myself but lack the tools and time as I have a one-year old and live in an apartment. Everything else will be stock, including my axles and gear ratio. I have been running 31's on a Rubicon Express 2.5 inch lift that was done 15+ years ago. I remember helping my dad and our friend install it. I have had no issues with the gearing, being that I do not get on the freeway often. I live in El Centro, Ca and it is flat enough that I can use 5th gear with no power issues as of now. The suspension is starting to go after all these years, so this is why I am replacing pretty much the whole thing.

I know that moving up to the 4 inch lift and 33's or 35's will cause me to regear. The questions I have are what size tires should I run? (I am leaning toward 33's with the 4 banger). I've milked some power out of it with an air intake, throttle body spacer, and catback exhaust. I know its not a big difference but I've had no issues with the 31's and my dad even ran 33's at one point. Should I regear to 4.88 with 33's or 35's? Finally, what would be next after regearing and sizing up the tires?

I have a new account on here but have done a lot of reading over the years that has helped me tremendously with the smaller upgrades on my jeep. I know the 4 banger isn't everyone's first choice but I love my jeep and have had a lot of fun growing up with it. I'll attach some photos as well!

Thanks!

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Gearing is subjective, but what I'm about to tell you isn't. Do not install those RC shocks. They are garbage. I was unfortunate enough to run them for 8 months and I'm telling you, they ride ROUGH.
 
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Rickyd said:
Their track bars are poorly designed and bend/come loose.they put drop pitman arms in their kits that will do messed up things to your steering.

Never in a million years drop a rough country kit off at a shop and pay your hard earned dollars to have your jeep messed up. It is an extremely sour feeling.
Click to expand...

This is a great point. DPA = Bump steer, @DeLoe5. A lot of people on here get confused on why their Jeeps handle like ass after a RC lift, and that's due to installing the DPA. A DPA isn't necessary in almost any case on a street driven Jeep, and it messes up the geometry between the drag link and track bar.

I'd hope the shop doing the lift is reputable and wouldn't install it anyways. However, if I were to warranty work, Rough Country would be blacklisted before this became an issue. Just something to think about. Cheap isn't good when lifting. Do it right or do it twice.
 
The4bangertj said:
Ditch the rough country stuff. Bad design and quality. The springs are short and stiff which doesn’t help with our light 4cyl tj. Don’t go long arm that’s a whole separate topic but a good short arm will do well. Their joints are also trash, had some of their short arms on my jeep and the joints blew out in less than 6 months. I swapped them for savvy control arms with Johnny joints and they’re on year 4 without an issue with daily driving them in snow to cross country trips.

4.88 or 5.13 gears on 33s will be fine either way but I’d lean towards more gearing. I found a Dana 30/44 set with arbs and 4.56 gears for 2k so I went that route since it was by far the cheapest way to get a regear and lockers under the jeep even though it’s no the ideal gearing, it’s noticeable over the 4.11 gears that were stock. With 33s and 4.56 I can hold 75 on flat 5k elevation which is ok out here in Idaho but in Maryland with 55 being the fastest speed limit around I never even had an issue with the 4.11s but havnt been back east since the new gears.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind!
 
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Thanks for the heads up and advice y'all. A lot of hate towards Rough Country obviously. I'll look into all the other options listed on here and figure out what suits my build and purposes best. Appreciate all the responses in such a short time!
 
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