That chunk of metal must’ve been pretty heavy to warrant a rolled up sleeve and bicep flex like this…
Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
OP
This is the most important mod I've done since getting home. Ryan, Ben and Mike - who watched me weld Ben's lower rear shock mount back together - know exactly why I did this...
Heck, even I can figure out why you did that!
Heck, even I can figure out why you did that!
I felt pretty bad for him watching blood run down his face.
But not quite bad enough to take on the job yourself?
Jeff was doing a good job welding.
OP
...all the while yelling, "Hurry up, Jeff! It's hot out here!"
OP
Heck, even I can figure out why you did that!
I've had this thing for many years, and it originally had something like that pad on there - but it had long since fallen off and been discarded. I've never thought much about it until I was rolling around under Ben's jeep, smashed the mask into his rear axle, and sliced my nose open. Ultimately, I figured out that the cut was caused by those sharp rivets.
I did not realize it happened until I stood up and took off the mask.
Ben said, "Jeff, you are bleeding pretty badly, are you OK?"
Mike said, "I'll get my first aid kit and help you stop the bleeding." (Mike has some experience there).
Ryan said, "Get the &(*#^ back under there and finish that weld!"
I've had this thing for many years, and it originally had something like that pad on there - but it had long since fallen off and been discarded. I've never thought much about it until I was rolling around under Ben's jeep, smashed the mask into his rear axle, and sliced my nose open. Ultimately, I figured out that the cut was caused by those sharp rivets.
I did not realize it happened until I stood up and took off the mask.
Ben said, "Jeff, you are bleeding pretty badly, are you OK?"
Mike said, "I'll get my first aid kit and help you stop the bleeding." (Mike has some experience there).
Ryan said, "Get the &(*#^ back under there and finish that weld!"
Pretty close to the way I recall it.
OP
Shoe Goo. Works great on leather (and RC Truck Bodies…). We’ll see how long it sticks to the HD foam. At first blush it is doing well.
When I first saw you with that hood on, my thought was, "well, that sure looks medieval!" Imagine my surprise to find out that it actually is medieval.
I've had this thing for many years, and it originally had something like that pad on there - but it had long since fallen off and been discarded. I've never thought much about it until I was rolling around under Ben's jeep, smashed the mask into his rear axle, and sliced my nose open. Ultimately, I figured out that the cut was caused by those sharp rivets.
I did not realize it happened until I stood up and took off the mask.
Ben said, "Jeff, you are bleeding pretty badly, are you OK?"
Mike said, "I'll get my first aid kit and help you stop the bleeding." (Mike has some experience there).
Ryan said, "Get the &(*#^ back under there and finish that weld!"
I'll need to look at the one I purchased and see if it needs your padding too.
OP
I'm good
for now at least. Of course I have to have a working Jeep to be able to use my welder.
Todd from JeepSpeed is looking for the alternator he has.
OP
When it's not doin' its best to slice off my nose, I love the utility and portability of my welding hood. It's been in the rig for many, many years, and has helped get more folks off the trail than I can remember.
And it packs up into a very small package. Show me another full-face hood that can do that.
That said, it's not a great welding hood. You can get the thing for about $20, so the glass is certainly not top quality, and it can sometimes be tough to see (especially if you are lying under Ben's rig with Ryan yelling at you). But it does not use a battery - it powers itself completely from the weld flash. It sits forgotten in the rig sometimes for years at a time - and has never once failed me.
In taking the hood apart to redo the inner pad, I noticed that the glass was a standard 4.25 x 2, and realized that a cheap (but effective) hood does not need to use cheap glass. So, after some research I picked up this Lincoln Viking 4C Series glass - Lincoln's best line in this size. No battery required just like the original - so no maintenance required.
Lincoln (and Miller, and others quality brands as well) does have in this size a variable shade with delay controls, which initially interested me. But it requires a battery, and if the battery dies it does not work, and requires charging in the sun - according to many reviews I read. Also, the retention clip in the face plate (you can see it in the flipped-up portion of the view port) would interfere with the dial controls.
The original shield was a shade 11, but in the shop doing MIG and Stick, 10 works better for me so I went with that shade on the new one. I'll give it a try at some point to see if it is actually worth the coin. For now, it seems like a nice upgrade to the Minion Mask.
And it packs up into a very small package. Show me another full-face hood that can do that.
That said, it's not a great welding hood. You can get the thing for about $20, so the glass is certainly not top quality, and it can sometimes be tough to see (especially if you are lying under Ben's rig with Ryan yelling at you). But it does not use a battery - it powers itself completely from the weld flash. It sits forgotten in the rig sometimes for years at a time - and has never once failed me.
In taking the hood apart to redo the inner pad, I noticed that the glass was a standard 4.25 x 2, and realized that a cheap (but effective) hood does not need to use cheap glass. So, after some research I picked up this Lincoln Viking 4C Series glass - Lincoln's best line in this size. No battery required just like the original - so no maintenance required.
Lincoln (and Miller, and others quality brands as well) does have in this size a variable shade with delay controls, which initially interested me. But it requires a battery, and if the battery dies it does not work, and requires charging in the sun - according to many reviews I read. Also, the retention clip in the face plate (you can see it in the flipped-up portion of the view port) would interfere with the dial controls.
The original shield was a shade 11, but in the shop doing MIG and Stick, 10 works better for me so I went with that shade on the new one. I'll give it a try at some point to see if it is actually worth the coin. For now, it seems like a nice upgrade to the Minion Mask.
OP
Yes. There is a clear lens in front of the glass, as well as in the base to protect your eyes when the lid is up. I carry several spares.