Blower speed resistor or something else?

It's just a switch. As you move through the switch speeds, you should have continuity from A to E, B to E, etc.

Remove the connector and probe the terminals on the switch.

Those are in the FSM under Connector PIn Outs.

Given how grody the back of that switch is, I wouldn't table the possibility that the contacts are just filthy as hell. That's especially possible since you got some continuity when you wiggled something a little.

If you are so inclined, and you can find access to the switch internals, get some electrical contact cleaner and spray the ever living shit out of it. Spray, work the switch, spray, work the switch, etc. Spray the connector contacts as well. You very well might end up with a near-free fix.

I don't know why the aftermarket hasn't offered just the fan switch.

I replaced my OEM control panel (same P/N P55056558AA on my 2005 fitment shown by the OP in post # 19) with this one: Standard Motor Products HS-373 Heater Switch (noting paid $24 "as-new" on Amazon Resale). That didn't resolve my issue, which is low airflow to dash and defroster registers at all fan switch positions, however all speeds do operate. I did keep the OEM, since wasn't root cause. I'll also note installing the SMP assembly required rerouting the vacuum tubes, which were shorter than the OEM unit it replaced. I also bought a Dorman 973-025 HVAC Blower Motor Resistor (paid $16 also Amazon Resale) not yet installed.

My TJ had the heater core bypassed during prior ownership, so it likely leaked (bought May 2025 at 89k - now 94k). I'm clueless whether a core repair had been attempted and aborted with an actuator door damaged during that. I looked for disconnected vacuum tubes from their respective ports, found one and reconnected that but still no joy. On all speeds but high, sounds like air being discharged from somewhere other than an outlet register. When I finally tear it to it further (primarily use air con function, which has been recharged plus Schrader valve replaced same time), I might well reinstall the old OEM control panel. "If it ain't broke, don't fix (or replace) it". Testing the OEM switch for continuity was a good move. I just threw $$ at it without success...

HS 573 is for RHD.

HS 532 is the correct one.

JKP said:

HS 573 is for RHD.

HS 532 is the correct one.

Click to expand...

Clearly why the SMP HS-373 I bought was so cheap! Appreciate your mention! I've read that the old OEM vacuum line assy can be moved to a new aftermarket control panel, which I didn't try. I'll eval that when time comes...

rmasteller said:

I assume SMP is the Standard Motor Products item?

What vacuum lines? I only see electrical connectors on the switch assembly. How did you get vacuum lines with the SMP item?

Click to expand...

My previously linked Amazon listing shows the vacuum tube bundle pre-attached to the back of the control panel assembly, noting the bundle length on the version I bought is too short. Although I rerouted that to the mating connector, the P/N version @JKP mentioned seems the correct fitment for LHD application. At least I didn't pay much for the as-new part I bought. How did your switch continuity test go?

Given how patterned these control panels are, there's no way the 'manufacturers' are actually manufacturing the rotary switches themselves, which leads me to believe that they should be available from someone like Digikey or Mouser. They aren't fairy dust either. Just 4 position switches spec'd with some voltage / current rating.

Man, I wish everything was just standardized a little more.

Well this thread lists out some of the switches and pots for the 97 HVAC panel...


-Mac

Awesome. Sucks that you got a damaged panel. Technically you could probably (very easily) swap the new switch into your old undamaged panel if you are so inclined.

After you've got all your stuff working again, take the old switch and see if you can identify the failure point on it. I'm just curious.