Jeep Wrangler TJ Full Electric Conversions

Bench Build NP231J

Just realized my kit has 2 needle bearings. Was scratching my head where the second one was…

Found it. In the planetary…

On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the bastard pictured above how much of a PITA is it to get the planetary needle bearing out… I’m debating even doing it, but I have everything apart, now would be the time…
 
I've been in and out of four 231Js and haven't bother replacing anything other than seals and whatever needed dragged out and in for a SYE.

Everything else looked perfectly fine and some were north of 250k miles.

-Mac
 
Okay new issue. Trying to reinstall the planetary. I have the bearing fully seated up to the lock ring. But when I insert the planetary it only goes in so far before it becomes a press fit. In doing so it presses the bearing out of the hole. The bearing appears to be the right size, there’s no movement but it really doesn’t require a press or hammer to seat, I can do it by hand. I’m not sure how to press it down the shaft of the planetary so that it can be fully seated for the lock ring that will lock it into place.
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macleanflood said:
I think you're heading in the right direction!

Maybe it was 2.5" PVC.

-Mac
Click to expand...

Oh I was showing I got it on with the pipe. 2” worked great! Got the lock ring on, and am continuing on, until the next issue lol. Appreciate your help and quick responses.
 
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Alright, so I got both halves back together. But the oil pump gear just barely meets the output shaft gear. I am able to pull up on the shaft and I gain about a quarter to half inch of space when I let go it falls back to minimal engagement. The culprit is that large input shaft bearing that I was referencing earlier. I have the lock ring on both sides as I pictured but it still shifts in and out about a 1/4 inch.


I fear I must be missing a lock ring or something. Of course I just successfully sealed the two halves together after much effort. So if I am missing a lock ring or something I’m gonna need to undo all that.
 

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Cameron23 said:
Alright, so I got both halves back together. But the oil pump gear just barely meets the output shaft gear. I am able to pull up on the shaft and I gain about a quarter to half inch of space when I let go it falls back to minimal engagement. The culprit is that large input shaft bearing that I was referencing earlier. I have the lock ring on both sides as I pictured but it still shifts in and out about a 1/4 inch.


I fear I must be missing a lock ring or something. Of course I just successfully sealed the two halves together after much effort. So if I am missing a lock ring or something I’m gonna need to undo all that.
Click to expand...

Or will the input shaft “cover” sandwich that bearing and hold it in place in its rightful place when I bolt it down?
 
Just rewatched the removal video I used. All snap rings appear to be accounted for. I’m gonna carry on and see if it all works out once everything is locked down.
 
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macleanflood said:
I dunno if this will help...


View: %5BURL%5D%5BURL%5D%5BURL%5Dhttps://youtu.be/RU0kdZfHPoM?is=KyqPlc1j6b89KYhW[/URL][/URL][/URL]

-Mac
Click to expand...


Seems very similar to my issue but my issue involves the whole input bearing moving with the shaft. I think he has the input shaft bearing retainer on.

I need to get the input shaft bearing retainer plate in place before I worry about it. There isn’t a snap ring or lock ring missing that I know of after watching the install video I followed.

Bigger issue right now is that for some reason the seal for the rear output shaft appears to be too small. The inner diameter seems right (but really tight to get on over the shaft itself down to the snap ring) but the outer diameter is too small compared to the one I pulled out. Seems odd as everything with this Novak kit has been spot on so far.
 
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This is what I’m working with from Novak.

The inside diameter is nearly if not exactly the same, but the outside diameter seems small. The lip may be enough to seal but not nearly as substantial as the original one.

None of the other remaining seals have an inside diameter that will… “grip the shaft”.

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Got a properly sized seal from NAPA, everything else had shit lead times. NAPA seal was a SKF, so 🤞.

Also made a perfect seal press courtesy of ACE.

She’s back together. Ran her through the different modes. Everything appears to be working as intended.

Appreciate the help everyone.

Will update when it’s in later this week.

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What’s the consensus for the best fluids for:
front/rear diff:
T case:
Transmission:

I see posts all over the place
Some people say full synth, conventional, partial synth,

Some say Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc.

I just need the hive mind consensus.
 
Transfercase takes ATF, for us auto owners you can put the same fluid in the transmission & t-case. Makes that easy.
 

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