What did you do to / in your garage / shop today?

I buy 20' sticks of 3/4" angle iron and strap and cut shelves out of 3/4" OSB. Makes great cheap shelving. All anchored to the wall with lag bolts.

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-Mac
 
I was looking at the pic before I read your text and thought to myself 'good use of the triangulated brackets to support the shelf.'

If you just went with an L-bracket, you'd be at serious risk of droop. If you don't toss up crazy heavy tools, etc up on the shelf, you should be okay with this install style.

That is why I specifically went with the ones that had the diagonal support as part of it. Plus to serve as a “bookend”.
 
What kind of screws did you use to attach the shelf to the brackets?
The ones to the wall are 5/16x1 1/2” lag bolts into the studs for the two brackets. The last one is 1/4”x1” lag bolts into the plywood. That section will have light items.

The brackets to the shelf are attached with 1/4”x1” lag bolts. I might change them out to 1/4” bolts with fender washers on the underside.
 
I buy 20' sticks of 3/4" angle iron and strap and cut shelves out of 3/4" OSB. Makes great cheap shelving. All anchored to the wall with lag bolts.

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-Mac

I like that. When I did my shelving I wanted it strong so I used John Sterling shelf standards and brackets, then I attached a 1x2 furring strip under the front of each shelf with countersunk screws and some 1.5" angle iron screwed to the back wall and the shelf to prevent any sagging. Everything has held up good.
 
Picked up a Weather Guard toolbox for the GMC today. Got sick of having nowhere to keep stuff, so this was the best route for this particular truck's use case. The box used to be on a gas company truck, but is in nearly brand new condition & saved me $1k.

Was super dirty inside, so I spent an hour in the garage scraping junk out of it and gave it a quick cleaning. Will probably polish the outside and bedline the inside over the fall/winter. Wheels/tires, headlights, taillights, exhaust, new tint, and steps are all that's left for me to consider this truck done. Seems like a lot typing it out, but I'm guessing I'll have it done in a couple of months. Too many projects...
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Reactions: Kiwi TJ
Not sure if this is phase 2 or phase 3 of shop/garage cleanup and reorganization, but more progress was made this weekend...a landmark of sorts. The shelves are a bit more squared away than before, but they had to be to make room for the freshly filled fastener bins. While fastener bins might not be that exciting to you, considering my living room floor has been covered in partially sorted piles of fasteners along with about 10 partially filled packout bins of varying sizes for the past year plus (not kidding), this is huge. I hate sorting fasteners.

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Not sure if this is phase 2 or phase 3 of shop/garage cleanup and reorganization, but more progress was made this weekend...a landmark of sorts. The shelves are a bit more squared away than before, but they had to be to make room for the freshly filled fastener bins. While fastener bins might not be that exciting to you, considering my living room floor has been covered in partially sorted piles of fasteners along with about 10 partially filled packout bins of varying sizes for the past year plus (not kidding), this is huge. I hate sorting fasteners.

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This post made me realize I need a creeper for my buckets.
 
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Time for some much needed maintenance on the RV. The plastic parts tend to yellow over the years due to the fire retardant (Bromides) that are added to plastics used in building materials migrating to the surface. Heat tends to accelerate the process as you can see in my before pics, it is worse near the ceiling where it's hotter. Once the migration starts you can fix it, but not permanently, you will need to freshen it up every few years. Nothing else will work except a process called Retr0Bright that was developed by some computer nerds restoring old Commodore PCs. https://www.google.com/search?q=ret...Z_Y&sourceid=chrome&source=chrome.rb&ie=UTF-8

I don't bother with the extra ingredients, I tried them in the past and they make no difference, just the developer cream, UV light and time is all you need. This took 5 hours. Initially in 2020 it took 2 days. Some claim the process can eventually make the plastic brittle but I haven't had an issue yet in 6 years. Tomorrow I'll do the plastic moldings on the outside around the slides.

After that is coolant flush/hoses and front brakes. Then it will be ready to hook on the Jeep for an early fall trip to NM.


Before (developer cream already slathered on)

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My UV lamp is 240 volts.

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After. About 95% improvement, still a little around the soap shelf.

Retr0bright Sep 20262.webp
Retr0bright Aug 20263.webp
 
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Replacing the fuel injection spider in my ‘97 K2500 FOR THE THIRD TIME THIS YEAR! I’m really loving the high quality parts coming out of China. I thought I finally found a USA made unit this time, but nope. Fine print said also made in China. First one had a bad pressure regulator. Second one seemed good for the first month then started flooding a couple of cylinders and causing rich-condition codes before finally causing steady misfires in two cylinders. Most recent one is causing misfires in another cylinder. Hopefully the one now going in will last a bit longer. Oh, and the reason the lower manifold is off is because the nylon guides on the most recent unit wouldn’t come out and I had to pound them out from underneath.

I really love that all of our replacements are now made in China. Oops: did I repeat myself?
 
Time for some much needed maintenance on the RV. The plastic parts tend to yellow over the years due to the fire retardant (Bromides) that are added to plastics used in building materials migrating to the surface. Heat tends to accelerate the process as you can see in my before pics, it is worse near the ceiling where it's hotter. Once the migration starts you can fix it, but not permanently, you will need to freshen it up every few years. Nothing else will work except a process called Retr0Bright that was developed by some computer nerds restoring old Commodore PCs. https://www.google.com/search?q=ret...Z_Y&sourceid=chrome&source=chrome.rb&ie=UTF-8

I don't bother with the extra ingredients, I tried them in the past and they make no difference, just the developer cream, UV light and time is all you need. This took 5 hours. Initially in 2020 it took 2 days. Some claim the process can eventually make the plastic brittle but I haven't had an issue yet in 6 years. Tomorrow I'll do the plastic moldings on the outside around the slides.

After that is coolant flush/hoses and front brakes. Then it will be ready to hook on the Jeep for an early fall trip to NM.


Before (developer cream already slathered on)

View attachment 708705View attachment 708706



My UV lamp is 240 volts.

View attachment 708707


After. About 95% improvement, still a little around the soap shelf.

View attachment 708708View attachment 708709

Hydrogen Peroxide and UV is also used to whiten old ivory piano keys - but you need to use "industrial strength" peroxide, not the watered down stuff from the drug store.
 
I really love that all of our replacements are now made in China. Oops: did I repeat myself?

I ordered radiator hoses and a recovery tank from a European parts site for my Sprinter. They were advertised as from "OE Supplier" When I received them they were in packages from Hudson, which is a US automotive parts re-packager and seller. When I looked at the "Hudson USA" box on the side was a label "Made in China". Mercedes never had those parts made in China. I packed up the whole mess and sent it back.

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