Bad words were said

So I just went back out the driveway to assess my situation and I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that the remnants of that EZ Out extractor are not gonna move, they are in their pretty darn tight. That means the likelihood of me drilling it out is next to nil, although if push comes to shove, I will give it a shot.

The good news is that I measured the bolts and they are 1 1/4" long from the top of the head to the bottom of the threads. The piece that broke off is 5/8 of an inch, which mean that there is another 5/8 of an inch in the floor bolt. I went underneath to spray some WD-40 on it and it appears that there is about 3/16 -1/4 inch of threads showing, which means if math is correct, there is less than 1//4 of both still threaded. I think I might be able to get my vise grips on the bolt and trying unscrewing it from underneath, its tight, but what choice do I have.

The issue I'm now having is that bolt (Mopar part # 6507346AA) is discontinued and I haven't had any luck finding it so far.
 
Bird said:
I laughed at the thread Title.

The wife avoids the garage when I'm working on a vehicle.....it gets graphic. Lol
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Wife only heard yelling today, later she asked "I heard you yelling, and I knew better than to come out and ask you how it was going". That's a wife of thirty years who has finally learned not to ask when I am bleeding, swearing, grease on my hands and face and under the car "How's it going?" One time I replied (from under the car) "Just f***ing dandy" only then to see the little feet of my then 5 year granddaughter standing next to her. We both learned a lesson that day.
 
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BobK said:
I'm pretty sure I barely have enough room for one bolt
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I was going to suggest the same method. You've already got one nut on there. If you break the existing one loose then run a second one up underneath it and tighten them together, you should be able to move the bolt in either direction by turning one or the other nut in the direction it can't go (because of the nut its run up against). That plus some heat and I'd think you can extract it from the bottom, assuming the head was cut off completely.

Note: This method is off the table if the threads get jacked up with vice grips.
 
90236


Oh, the head is off completely for sure

BlackJeep said:
I was going to suggest the same method. You've already got one nut on there. If you break the existing one loose then run a second one up underneath it and tighten them together, you should be able to move the bolt in either direction by turning one or the other nut in the direction it can't go (because of the nut its run up against). That plus some heat and I'd think you can extract it from the bottom, assuming the head was cut off completely.
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BobK said:
Check out the second picture of the broken extractor and the damn bolt still stubbornly in the hole. I decided to call it a day rather than do something stupid.
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Been there. Done that. I praise you for your patience. I have been known to go the extra step and cause way more pain down the line.
 
Alex01 said:
Been there. Done that. I praise you for your patience. I have been known to go the extra step and cause way more pain down the line.
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The difference is, I am probably older than you have I have done that exact thing more times than I can count. In my old age, I am learning to step back and think.........the problem is, I will go back at it tomorrow and probably still do something regrettable.....
 
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Man don't stress, drill it if needed and put a grade a bolt and big washer underneath and nylock nut

Body nuts like that need soaked in kroil or a similar penetrant for days ahead .. because the underside gets wet and corrodes.

Being seat belt bolts , they may have originally had some form of loctite that eventually corroded them , which is the ultimate loctite. Who knows.

Seems like it's always one bolt that ruins your day.
 
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AndyG said:
Man don't stress, drill it if needed and put a grade a bolt and big washer underneath and nylock nut

Body nuts like that need soaked in kroil or a similar penetrant for days ahead .. because the underside gets wet and corrodes.

Being seat belt bolts , they may have originally had some form of loctite that eventually corroded them , which is the ultimate loctite. Who knows.

Seems like it's always one bolt that ruins your day.
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That's funny, I drove to the hardware store today looking for a replacement for the broken bolt and it was " no bueno". It was at the point I thought to myself "if all else fails, I'll just drill it out for a larger bolt". But I'm still gonna try to make it legit tomorrow.
 
You should use some penetrating fluid like Kroil or PB Blaster before trying the vise grips. WD40 is great stuff for certain things but I think you’ll do better on this project with something different.
 
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I'm almost sure Daveys jeeps has them , or Fastenal would .

Did you get the old one out guy?
 
RussTJ said:
You should use some penetrating fluid like Kroil or PB Blaster before trying the vise grips. WD40 is great stuff for certain things but I think you’ll do better on this project with something different.
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Just got back from Walmart with my trust can of PB Blaster. I gave the bolt a good spray and will leave overnight for some magic to happen.


AndyG said:
I'm almost sure Daveys jeeps has them , or Fastenal would .

Did you get the old one out guy?
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I haven't tried to get it out from underneath, but that is the plan for tomorrow.
 
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Lay the pb blaster to it man . The broken extractor may expand the bolt and make it tighter.

Sometimes guys weld a rod to them to turn them out.

Sometimes a smack with punch helps break the crud.

Good luck on it man.
 
BTDT and even broke off a drill bit trying to get the broken extractor out. If you can't get it out from the bottom, this is when I break out my pencil die grinder with a tool steel bit. It make a lot of metal dust, but eventually, I get the broken piece out. It only took me 3 hours to remove a broken bumper bolt.
 
It was floating around the internet a year or so back, but the wife printed it out and framed it. So, it's hanging in my garage:

"Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal."
 
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BobK said:
So I just went back out the driveway to assess my situation and I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that the remnants of that EZ Out extractor are not gonna move, they are in their pretty darn tight. That means the likelihood of me drilling it out is next to nil, although if push comes to shove, I will give it a shot.

The good news is that I measured the bolts and they are 1 1/4" long from the top of the head to the bottom of the threads. The piece that broke off is 5/8 of an inch, which mean that there is another 5/8 of an inch in the floor bolt. I went underneath to spray some WD-40 on it and it appears that there is about 3/16 -1/4 inch of threads showing, which means if math is correct, there is less than 1//4 of both still threaded. I think I might be able to get my vise grips on the bolt and trying unscrewing it from underneath, its tight, but what choice do I have.

The issue I'm now having is that bolt (Mopar part # 6507346AA) is discontinued and I haven't had any luck finding it so far.
Click to expand...

I currently have all four rear seat bolts with heads broken off. A previous owner when removing the seats, apparently broke all the bolts, then ground down what remained and covered with bed liner. And the remains of those four bolts are fused in good and solid. Earlier today I tried the vice grips approach from underneath with no luck.

I think the only way you will get the remains of the bolt loose, is by applying a lot of heat to the nut from underneath, and then crossing your fingers the bolt can be moved using vice-grips or preferably some bolt extractor similar to a nut from underneath.

For my part, I am going to carefully cut off each of the captive nuts from underneath, and then install new bolts with regular nuts. Because I don't think anything is going to get enough grip on the underside portion of the bolt to allow removal given the corrosion. I'm rooting for you though, if you manage to get that bolt extracted more power to you.

(Photo below shows the remains of bolts under vehicle, but there are no bolt heads above to wrench on.)

SeatBracketUndersideBolts.jpg
 
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GEEP4ME said:
It was floating around the internet a year or so back, but the wife printed it out and framed it. So, it's hanging in my garage:

"Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal."
Click to expand...

SO DAMN TRUE.
 
indio said:
I currently have all four rear seat bolts with heads broken off. A previous owner when removing the seats, apparently broke all the bolts, then ground down what remained and covered with bed liner. And the remains of those four bolts are fused in good and solid. Earlier today I tried the vice grips approach from underneath with no luck.

I think the only way you will get the remains of the bolt loose, is by applying a lot of heat to the nut from underneath, and then crossing your fingers the bolt can be moved using vice-grips or preferably some bolt extractor similar to a nut from underneath.

For my part, I am going to carefully cut off each of the captive nuts from underneath, and then install new bolts with regular nuts. Because I don't think anything is going to get enough grip on the underside portion of the bolt to allow removal given the corrosion. I'm rooting for you though, if you manage to get that bolt extracted more power to you.

(Photo below shows the remains of bolts under vehicle, but there are no bolt heads above to wrench on.)

View attachment 90307
Click to expand...
You have a lot of meat on them. I would try an exhaust stud remover.

ARES 70016 | Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool | Grips and Removes 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Studs | Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over and Rusted Tight Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKEBG9I/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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