Trying to remove the front track bar. The axle side came off. On the frame side, I took the pin out, removed the nut, but the bolt won't budge. I whacked the frame end of the track bar from one side and the other. I also put the nut back and whacked it, although the angle doesn't let me put a good whack on it. So, am I missing something? Is there a secret? Thanks in advance.
Front track bar frame bolt won't budge
- Thread starter Franco
- Start date
That bolt is upside down and sometimes it gets confusing which way to turn it. Lay underneath and look up to make sure you're loosening it the right direction. Not saying you don't know lefty-loosey/righty-tighty, I get confused myself once in a while when I'm loosening/tightening a nut or bolt that's on the bottom when I'm working from above it.
Once you are sure you're sure you're turning it the right direction, use a breaker bar or place a jack handle over the wrench for more leverage. That bolt is on there pretty tight at 85-90 ft-lbs so a standard length 1/2" ratchet wrench is not long enough for everyone to have enough leverage over that particular bolt.
Once you are sure you're sure you're turning it the right direction, use a breaker bar or place a jack handle over the wrench for more leverage. That bolt is on there pretty tight at 85-90 ft-lbs so a standard length 1/2" ratchet wrench is not long enough for everyone to have enough leverage over that particular bolt.
Now I’m totally confused. I already took the castellated nut off. There’s nothing else to turn. I just need for the bolt to slide down, no?
That clarified your situation. If your axle is drooping from the frame being up on jack stands as it appears to be, that's putting a LOT of sideways load on that track bar bolt. Use a jack to raise the axle back up to its normal height which should remove enough sideways load off the bolt for it to come loose more easily.
Jerry:
The axle end of the track bar is loose, and I already propped it up so that the frame end is in a more natural angle. Still, it’s frozen.
No need for fire. Droop the axle end down and out in front of the axle a bit. Place a socket next to the rubber boot between the bar and mount to act as a fulcrum and put the other end on the lifting pad on your floor jack. Raise it up a bit until there is some pressure on the fulcrum trying to pry the tapered stud out of the mount. Then give it a good smack or several with a small ball peen hammer and it will pop right out. Don't stand in the way or start the nut on a couple threads to keep it from flying about when it pops loose.
Ppd7207
Member
Blaine's Idea is probably the best and most accessible. I think I used a tie rod puller and breaker bar on mine.
Got it! I have the bracket a few hard hits with a BFH, then hit it from the top and it came off.
By the way, I lifted my Jeep using the Procomp springs and Rancho shocks that Jerry recommended in some other thread. On the rear, I had to add a 1” spacer so that the shock wouldn’t fully compress. On the front, I had to add 2”. The only thing that bugs me is that on the front, with the shocks installed, if I let the axles hang, the springs are loose. There’s nothing holding them in place. I’m hoping that the sway bar and track bar will restrict the amount of down movement.
By the way, I lifted my Jeep using the Procomp springs and Rancho shocks that Jerry recommended in some other thread. On the rear, I had to add a 1” spacer so that the shock wouldn’t fully compress. On the front, I had to add 2”. The only thing that bugs me is that on the front, with the shocks installed, if I let the axles hang, the springs are loose. There’s nothing holding them in place. I’m hoping that the sway bar and track bar will restrict the amount of down movement.
That's why I constantly warn that Rancho's size chart can't be used, it consistently recommends shock models that are too long. That either requires extra-long bump stops that restrict/cripple the suspension or they have to be swapped for the next shorter size.
The Rancho shocks I bought are 55239 (front) and 55241 (rear). The rear ones are fine. The front ones, I wish they were an inch shorter. I probably should have bought the 55128 for the front.
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MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Try these. https://www.claytonoffroad.com/tjljxjzj_stainless_steel_front_spring_retainers Easy to install.
Take the amount of bump stop extension you have between the cup and stem, remove it, and replace it with a pad on the lower mount on the axle. That makes the mount taller and the spring won't be able to be removed without pulling the shock.
The extended shock works fine as a limit for most people. There is a bit of a juggling act between the extended shock length and the coil free length. Longer coils that provide the ride height you want is a nice detail to pay some attention to.