Why are my rear springs completely collapsed? (pics attatched - ford 8.8 swap)

We need to evaluate the entire suspension. Yes there Ford 8.8 throws in a few variables.( Personally I think they are a waste of time) but the truth is, they are an easy swap and the brackets accommodate all the stock Jeep components. The fact that you have adjustable UCAs and fixed length LCAs means there was likely some lift added most likely a Frankenstein.
Getting all the measurements is important to your estimate for new springs. I'm certain that those springs are both garbage and not stock. Those spacers front and rear don't belong there. I can't guess a height of the lift. But I'm sure they took the springs before you bought it.

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ok, this was as high as I could get it with my jack

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jjvw said:
The arm chart of useless for any application because once you put the axle where it needs to be in order to make the drive shaft happy, land on the bumps and also have clear travel, the final measurement is completely irrelevant. It is what it is.

If the arm chart has any accuracy, it is for one specific setup and the Jeep must be setup to exactly match that setup before the chart has a chance of matching the Jeep.
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These charts are the same from every manufacturer. They are based on math as it applies to suspension geometry, having a 4 inch lift and pushing the axle back an inch to center larger wheels would cause you to use a 5 inch non adjustable LCA. Which is why you still need to know LCA , UCA length and tire size. There angle if the opinion shaft is a constant of the triangle measurements.

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fxrsliberty said:
These charts are the same from every manufacturer. They are based on math as it applies to suspension geometry, having a 4 inch lift and pushing the axle back an inch to center larger wheels would cause you to use a 5 inch non adjustable LCA. Which is why you still need to know LCA , UCA length and tire size. There angle if the opinion shaft is a constant of the triangle measurements.

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If mine still had short arms with everything else still the same, it woulds not match that chart.
 
Ok then, seems the general consensus is that I need to change the damn springs. Now it's just a matter of picking the right ones and shocks and bumps to go with.
 
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jjvw said:
If mine still had short arms with everything else still the same, it woulds not match that chart.
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Which is why adjustable upper control arms are more common. Need to set that pinion angle, the adjuster being up out of the way, make that the best combo.

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npalmi88 said:
Ok then, seems the general consensus is that I need to change the damn springs. Now it's just a matter of picking the right ones and shocks and bumps to go with.
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Depending on how much adjustment those uppers have, how long the threads are, will govern how tall. You should not have more then half of the thread exposed. Less is stronger. Plug the length of the UCA adjusted as suggested above, the length of the LCA into that chart and you have the max spring size for your control arms. Other factors apply, wheel size, how much deflection you CA joints offer, sway bar link length, drive shaft length, do you have an SYE...

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npalmi88 said:
Ok then, seems the general consensus is that I need to change the damn springs. Now it's just a matter of picking the right ones and shocks and bumps to go with.
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35s need about 5" of additional clearance over stock. A 4" lift spring with a small body lift is a nice way to get there. 4" of spring lift ought to include both upper and lower adjustable arms. I haven't paid attention to your driveshaft, but that needs to be a double cardan with an SYE. A motor mount lift certainly helps things as well.
 
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npalmi88 said:
So I was thinking of going with:
These shocks in 4": https://www.quadratec.com/products/16335_4027.htm
These adjustable bumps: https://www.quadratec.com/products/16159_1000.htm
These Springs in 4": https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_4XX_A_PG.htm

Would I need to change anything else if I installed all 3 of these?
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You never answered whether or not you have an SYE and dual Cardin drive shaft. You won't like the four inch springs without it. (Lots of vibration issues and the 8.8 is known to bring vibration issues on it's own) Generally 3 inch lifts are as much as you should go without them. You don't want to start messing around with drive line angles until you understand it. Personally, I try and avoid MMLs, body lifts and t-case drops. If I want more then 4 inches, I would use a tummy tuck with mml & body lift, sye and dc shaft or a long arm kit with SYE and dc shaft. Get the hint.... SYE and dc shaft....

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fxrsliberty said:
You never answered whether or not you have an SYE and dual Cardin drive shaft. You won't like the four inch springs without it. (Lots of vibration issues and the 8.8 is known to bring vibration issues on it's own) Generally 3 inch lifts are as much as you should go without them. You don't want to start messing around with drive line angles until you understand it. Personally, I try and avoid MMLs, body lifts and t-case drops. If I want more then 4 inches, I would use a tummy tuck with mml & body lift, sye and dc shaft or a long arm kit with SYE and dc shaft. Get the hint.... SYE and dc shaft....

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Click to expand...

Look up at my last post with pics, and jjvw's response...
 
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